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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It's amazing how one job can turn into several. I started by investigating a horrible clunk coming from what sounds like the right rear suspension when going over bumps. First I jacked up the arse-end. Checked for any play or undue noise from the wheels and what I could grab hold of on the suspension. Nothing. All looks well, so I pulled the right rear wheel. Nothing obvious causing the clunking, but hmmm.. Brake pads have about 30% left on them. Jeez I better change them before the snow flies. I ran to CarQuest and purchased new ceramic pads for front & rear. ~$75 out the door.

I got home, started on the job only to trear a caliper pin boot in half on the right rear about 3min into the job! [email protected]##$% I didn't try the dealer, but Carquest is supposedly going to have a boot kit for me this morning. Why do it with one trip to the store when you can with two..or more.

This would be the third time I've disassembled, cleaned and lubed the brakes on my 2008 LX @ 45Kmi, yet almost all those boots are stuck in the calipers. The pins come out no problem for cleaning/greasing. I normally like to pull the boots right out for cleaning. I got half of the first! Good times.

Joel
 

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I hear you. :frown:

On my last Camry brake job I took off both sides because I needed new rotors. Started on bleeding the left side before assembling the right side and blew the piston out of the right side caliper.

Learned how to reassemble a caliper piston and work with a banjo bolt connection. So I'll chalk it up to a learning experience.
 

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Why do it with one trip to the store when you can with two..or more. Joel
I hear you. :frown:
Started on bleeding the left side before assembling the right side and blew the piston out of the right side caliper.
I hear both of you, too. It will eventually be funny...well...maybe not.

I can just imagine the look on your face, Prospect, when you hear the noise from the brake puck on the ground. :rollingeyes:

How about this one? 2003 350Z, reman trans, JWT flywheel, clutch, B&M short shifter, Bassani cat back, all buttoned up and ready for a ride.

Clutch wouldn't disengage, the shift fork pivot ball was the wrong one shipped with the transmission, ONLY 1" SHORT!!! :nothappy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Got my "bushing kit" this AM from Carquest. $9.96. Nice kit. Comes with 4 boots and replacement rubber sleeves for the caliper slide pins. But... The darn boots don't fit in the bores on the calipers. They're a tiny bit too big. :( I tried for better than an hour and wound-up poking a hole in one trying.

I ordered a Honda kit from my closest Honda dealer parts counter. Of course they didn't have it in stock either. The Honda kit comes with a seal kit for the calipers too. Just under $15 I'm told. Dunno if it's one side or per axle.

Back to the drawing board.

Joel
 

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Tough break. It's tempting but chancey to go with aftermarket parts for the Ody. Hang in there!

BTW, the OEM kit is for one caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Will do Dave.

I've actually got a Monday AM service appt for the horrible suspension clunk I've got going on @ the right rear. I'll have it in for service before I get my parts. I'll be curious to see if their Techs will notice the ill fitting caliper pin boot. I shoved one of the new aftermarket ones on there for now and gooped it up heavily with Sil-Glyde until I can get one that fits.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just got the van back. They had a heck of time isolating the source of the clunking. The service adviser even stated; "It sounds just like a bad stabilizer bar end link, but these vans don't have any".

They called me & wanted to start by changing out the shock. If that wasn't it, they'd look into the control arm bushings. They wanted $150 for a replacement Honda shock. I said no way. They said they'd look for an aftermarket one.

They wound-up charging me $100 for a ~$50 KYB 349091 shock and $128.70 for diagnostics and labor. $228.70 out the door.

Wife says it's quiet now. It's so windy and rainy right now I can't even take a listen/look.

It's amazing to me they didn't push to replace the other shock or push any other services. I didn't think there was a shop out there that wouldn't replace them only in pairs. I'll have to swap out the other side with a matching KYB at some point.

While there they also took care of a ABS system recall which included a brake bleeding and fluid top-up and also a transmission programming recall.

Of course they didn't even notice the mis-fit caliper pin boot. I picked up my Honda kit while I was there. I'll get on that as soon as I can.

Part # for the caliper boot & seal kit is 01473-SHJ-A00

Joel
 

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They called me & wanted to start by changing out the shock. If that wasn't it, they'd look into the control arm bushings. They wanted $150 for a replacement Honda shock. I said no way. They said they'd look for an aftermarket one.

It's amazing to me they didn't push to replace the other shock or push any other services. I didn't think there was a shop out there that wouldn't replace them only in pairs. I'll have to swap out the other side with a matching KYB at some point.

Joel
I suppose legitimately if the LH was ok, it wasn't an egregious error, but I guess they figured if they couldn't get one OE $ from you, 2 aftermarket was out of the question, ya know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I just wish I could have isolated the noise to the shock myself. I pried & wiggled at everything to no joy. I could have had a pair of those particular KYB shocks mail-ordered to my door for around $80 and those rear shocks look super simple to replace.

Joel
 

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$140 is fine for the shop's experience that allowed them to replace the right part the first time.

It's paying them $95/hour for them to guess that I don't like doing. I can guess and replace a lot cheaper than that.

I could have had a pair of those particular KYB shocks mail-ordered to my door for around $80 and those rear shocks look super simple to replace.l
Looks like you'll still get to do half the job yourself. You have to be thrilled at that. ;)

What's your miles ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's paying them $95/hour for them to guess that I don't like doing. I can guess and replace a lot cheaper than that.
I hear that. It essentially was guess-work on their part. They honestly had no idea where this (very obvious) clunking was coming from. The service adviser said flat out; "we're going to TRY a new shock to see if the noise goes away".

I also had them look into what feels like excessive engine vibs through the steering wheel, indicative of worn engine mounts. They acted like they've never heard of such a thing and of course, couldn't duplicate the concern. Called it normal. You'd think at a minimum they'd try to replace something, or recommend some ridiculous service to generate $$$. This was all on my dime since I'm at ~45K miles.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just an FYI, but the Honda caliper bushing kit 01473-SHJ-A00 replacement pin boots fit like a glove for the rear brakes. The kit also came with lube packets, a bunch of O-rings, seals, washers and two pin boots, so basically it's one kit per corner if you needed it. Rather pricey at $15/ea if you needed all 4.

It's possible that aftermarket boot kit I bought from Carquest was ordered wrong. They might have mistakenly ordered me a front kit as opposed to the rear. I dunno for sure.

Joel
 

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Just an FYI, but the Honda caliper bushing kit 01473-SHJ-A00 replacement pin boots fit like a glove for the rear brakes. The kit also came with lube packets, a bunch of O-rings, seals, washers and two pin boots, so basically it's one kit per corner if you needed it. Rather pricey at $15/ea if you needed all 4.
Thanks for the part number. I tore one of my pin boots today too. :( It's a small tear, but enough to need replacement...especially with snow coming soon.

The rears are definitely harder to separate from the pin than the front. I tried using a flat head screwdriver because I wasn't having much luck with my fingers, and the screwdriver is what caused the tear. Lesson learned! Yes, I'm a rookie. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The rears are definitely harder to separate from the pin than the front.
On mine, it wasn't a problem removing the pin from the boot, it was the boots were sticking into the bores on the iron caliper(s). Just when you thought it wasn't possible for iron to corrode to rubber, it does!

Generally, when I do a brake job, or just a brake cleaning, I like to pull the pins and boots right off for a thorough cleaning. I'm going to re-think this from now on!

They certainly DON'T make rubber components the way they used to. I've serviced vehicles 10+ yrs old with 200K miles on them and didn't tear caliper pin boots.

Oh well. Honda brake components are still better than what I experienced with my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe. Hyundai is great, just not so great with their little bits-n-pieces.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just wanted to follow up on this, because I finally got around to replacing my torn caliper pin boot this week. I ended up using this part: Amazon.com: Raybestos H16139 Professional Grade Disc Brake Caliper Rubber Bushing Kit: Automotive ... Only $6.47 at Amazon. It fits perfectly.

Good to know! Thanks for posting this. You sure can't beat Amazon for price/availability. It's not a huge crisis to wait a few days for these. I know I drove for a few days with the torn boot in place. I just gooped the pin up heavily with Sil-Glyde, then cleaned it thoroughly before installing the new boots.

Joel
 
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