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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after searching the group for ideas I've taken the plunge and ordered an OEM hitch and P/S cooler from Bernardi. Even with shipping, we are saving a substantial amount of coin by ordering from the US rather than our local dealer. I'm in the process of finding and ordering the tranny cooler parts and I've decided to go aftermarket. Here in Canada, I'll be looking at Partsource, Napa and the other aftermarket suppliers but ultimately may order from the US again due to cost savings. Looking forward to getting all this done, going camping and enjoying a nice cold beer in the cool shade!
 

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If you haven't already ordered the tranny cooler, check out the Setrab coolers. CT-E (formerly Comptech) supplied those and Red Line synthetic ATF on (some) A/T equipped supercharger kits. I've seen the entrails of more than my share of Honda automatic transmissions, and their reputation is pretty well known in those boosted apps as well.

CT-Engineering.com

About Setrab USA
 

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Easy day project. Honda's installation instructions are prety good. Again you don't need to cut all the rear bumber cover out that their template suggests. Also, I would suggest running a tap through the welded nuts in your frame to clean the threads out prior to installing the hitch. I installed the hitch and both OEM coolers myself without incident.

I ended up using a ratchet strap to temporarily hold the tail pipe out of the way while I worked on that side of the hitch.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you haven't already ordered the tranny cooler, check out the Setrab coolers. CT-E (formerly Comptech) supplied those and Red Line synthetic ATF on (some) A/T equipped supercharger kits. I've seen the entrails of more than my share of Honda automatic transmissions, and their reputation is pretty well known in those boosted apps as well.

CT-Engineering.com

About Setrab USA
They look pretty good! Did you go with these on your Ody?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Compared to my Toyota Previa AWD, towing with the Ody looks to be a pain - both in the wallet and in time invested in getting the van ready to tow. Looking on E-Trailer right now at wiring harnesses and brake controllers. I think the Prodigy is the way to go here. More installation time (and more beer).
 

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I just did the same on my 06. Ordered the whole towing package from Bernardi, shipped it to CBIUSA in Niagara Falls NY and drove down to pick it all up. I was successful at installing the hitch, wiring, PS cooler, but just couldn't get the tranny cooler done underneath due to the clips and hose routing, so that I had my Honda dealer do..they also did a complete tranny flush at the same time as I'm now over 100,000 KM.

As mentioned earlier, you will have to re-tap the holes for the hitch bolts to get rid of all the road dirt and crud.

Have fun and happy camping !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As mentioned earlier, you will have to re-tap the holes for the hitch bolts to get rid of all the road dirt and crud.
I've seen that mentioned on a number of posts! The tap size is also kindly supplied on these posts, as well. I'll make sure I have that ready BEFORE I start the install. Thanks for the reminder!
 

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Easy day project. Honda's installation instructions are prety good. Again you don't need to cut all the rear bumber cover out that their template suggests. Also, I would suggest running a tap through the welded nuts in your frame to clean the threads out prior to installing the hitch. I installed the hitch and both OEM coolers myself without incident.

I ended up using a ratchet strap to temporarily hold the tail pipe out of the way while I worked on that side of the hitch.

Question - does one really need to take off the bumper to install the hitch? (yes I've read the instructions). I'm wondering why I can't just make the cut to the underside of the bumper while the bumper is still on, then get under the car and attach the hitch straight away. Maybe it would be apparent to me if I were under the car right now and not on a computer as to why one needs to remove the bumper, but just wondering.......
 

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Yes. The OEM hitch ends up inside the bumper.

I installed the OEM hitch and wiring harness in my 2006 today. Took about 2 1/2 hours with help from my nine year old and three year old. Without help I could have been done in 2.

Notes:

- Watch the etrailer youtube for orientation.
- No need to jack up the van. Access is very good once the bumper is removed
- The M12 x 1.25 thread is an oddball and not in standard Metric Tap and Die kits.
- I was able to get by with trimming a old tooth brush head with a utility knife (slimming it) and using it to scrub the threads. I soaked with WD40, scrubbed and then rinsed with WD40. I had no issued getting the bolts in.
- Use a pry bar on the exhaust hanger. Out in 20 seconds.
- Get the hitch up and in on the left side and then pull the exhaust towards the fuel tank.
- I used a light weight cargo strap looped to the safety chain holes of the new hitch. Worked like a charm.
- At 58 ft/lbs I was tearing out my lock washers. Watch them when doing your final tightening.
- Electrical tape on a long handled pry bar made easy work of all the plastic tabs. I didn't break any.
- Wear safety glasses underneath. Lots of loose dirt to fall in your eyes.
- You will need a right angle screwdriver (preferably ratcheting) for sanity on the fender screws.
- 10mm nut driver is helpful. Hitch bolts are 19mm. 6" extension is handy. Several assorted flat bladed screw drivers.
- I used a pair of utility snips (Fiskars Titanium Nitride No. 8 Shop Snip) to cut the bumper and cleaned up with a knife. It was very easy. Doing it all with a utility knife would be a chore and more dangerous.

Next project - 2007 trans cooler and PS cooler into the 2006.
 

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Yes. The OEM hitch ends up inside the bumper.

I installed the OEM hitch and wiring harness in my 2006 today. Took about 2 1/2 hours with help from my nine year old and three year old. Without help I could have been done in 2.

Notes:

- Watch the etrailer youtube for orientation.
- No need to jack up the van. Access is very good once the bumper is removed
- The M12 x 1.25 thread is an oddball and not in standard Metric Tap and Die kits.
- I was able to get by with trimming a old tooth brush head with a utility knife (slimming it) and using it to scrub the threads. I soaked with WD40, scrubbed and then rinsed with WD40. I had no issued getting the bolts in.
- Use a pry bar on the exhaust hanger. Out in 20 seconds.
- Get the hitch up and in on the left side and then pull the exhaust towards the fuel tank.
- I used a light weight cargo strap looped to the safety chain holes of the new hitch. Worked like a charm.
- At 58 ft/lbs I was tearing out my lock washers. Watch them when doing your final tightening.
- Electrical tape on a long handled pry bar made easy work of all the plastic tabs. I didn't break any.
- Wear safety glasses underneath. Lots of loose dirt to fall in your eyes.
- You will need a right angle screwdriver (preferably ratcheting) for sanity on the fender screws.
- 10mm nut driver is helpful. Hitch bolts are 19mm. 6" extension is handy. Several assorted flat bladed screw drivers.
- I used a pair of utility snips (Fiskars Titanium Nitride No. 8 Shop Snip) to cut the bumper and cleaned up with a knife. It was very easy. Doing it all with a utility knife would be a chore and more dangerous.

Next project - 2007 trans cooler and PS cooler into the 2006.

Thanks....yeah over the weekend I got under the van and noticed as well that the hitch goes inside the bumper, hence the need to take the bumper off.

A few questions from your notes:

1) my van is only 1 yr old and I put duct tape on the bottom on the holes last spring, so hopefully the threads are still in good shape. I guess it cant hurt to scrub with some WD40 as you say.

2) What do you mean "use a pry bar on the exhaust hanger"? Just pull the pin inwards (toward the fuel tank) to get it to pop through the rubber hanger? I was thinking I might be able to leave the exhaust in place and actually rest the right side of the hitch up there while bolting it the left side. Then was thinking I can bolt up the exhaust side by just using an extension to the ratchet, to go past the exhaust pipe, and maybe pushing the exhaust out of the way a little if I can't get a straight angle. Thoughts?

3) what are you describing with the light weight cargo strap - how you held the hitch in place while bolting?

4) re: electrical tape on a long handled pry bar.....is that for removing the bumper clips along the sides? I assumed the force to remove a clip is pretty small which is why I was confused about using a pry bar......


Thanks
 

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I installed a Curt Class 2 on my 06 EXL without jacking it up or moving the exhaust pipe. Was so simple to just rest one end on the muffler and then get the other side bolts started. Oh yes, I cleaned out all 6 wellnuts with WD40 and a battery post hole cleaner. I also ran all the bolts through them before starting to avoid any headaches with a bolt hang up. It took me less then 20 minutes to install and torque to specs. I just pushed over the exhaust pipe when the time cam for the side.

E-trailer was great.
 

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1) my van is only 1 yr old and I put duct tape on the bottom on the holes last spring, so hopefully the threads are still in good shape. I guess it cant hurt to scrub with some WD40 as you say.

Doubt you'll have any issues. Just try and run the bolts in first to be sure they'll go.

2) What do you mean "use a pry bar on the exhaust hanger"? Just pull the pin inwards (toward the fuel tank) to get it to pop through the rubber hanger? I was thinking I might be able to leave the exhaust in place and actually rest the right side of the hitch up there while bolting it the left side. Then was thinking I can bolt up the exhaust side by just using an extension to the ratchet, to go past the exhaust pipe, and maybe pushing the exhaust out of the way a little if I can't get a straight angle. Thoughts?
Pry between the exhaust pin and rubber hanger. Pry the rubber from the pin a little at a time.
You might be able to get away with laying the hitch on the muffler. I used a small jack stand to hold the right side while I worked on the left.


3) what are you describing with the light weight cargo strap - how you held the hitch in place while bolting?

How I moved the exhaust towards the fuel tank. I looped the strap from center of the hitch around the exhaust and back and then tightened.

4) re: electrical tape on a long handled pry bar.....is that for removing the bumper clips along the sides? I assumed the force to remove a clip is pretty small which is why I was confused about using a pry bar......

Work the bumper clips by hand one at a time. The prybar is for the interior panel clips. The long reach of the bar allows you to put pressure at the right point.
Hope that helps
 

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Hope that helps
Thanks - very helpful. I'm thinking that because I am not installing the wiring harness, I'm not worried about the "interior panel clips" that you mention. I think all I'm doing is taking off the bumper, which if I recall correctly is 4 bolts on the back, 3 plastic pins on the bottom (although I note that I am missing my middle one already....must have fallen out or was forgotten by the factory), and 2 fenderwell screws on each rear wheel well.

Now I just gotta get a torque wrench - I think I can borrow one from Autozone perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPS delivered the OEM hitch and PS cooler from Bernardi yesterday - it came pretty quick all the way from MA in the US to us here in Edmonton! I'm plotting my next moves and have spent way too much time in front of the PC so I called the local dealer to find a cost and availability of the OEM wiring harness (O8L91-SHJ-300, not 100A which must have been the "old" p/n) and they came back with a price of $190 Cdn and it was a special order. I wonder why?
So, after I "find" an aftermarket harness there'll just be a few pieces of the puzzle left to solve: the atf cooler and finally the brake controller. So far I'm leaning towards a little Earls cooler and a Prodigy controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally had some time to get working on the coolers this evening. Installed the power steering cooler (OEM) tonight. It was a very straight-forward procedure following the instructions from the PDF for the Honda towing package installation. Of course, there were no bolts or hose clamps included but the clamps were already there from the removal of the coiley pipe that was in there before. Also, there was a leftover 6 x 12 bolt which was reused. I just had to find a larger bolt (8 x 16 I think) for the other side of the cooler - had one handy, so no problem there.
Tomorrow, installing the Earle's ATF cooler with thermostat. I have just about everything except those 90 degree NPT 1/4" thread (6AN) to 3/8" hose fittings for the top of the cooler. It's been tough finding those here in the big city of Edmonton... maybe Partsource? They're open on Canada Day...
I have pics if I'm allowed to post them - just let me know if anyone's interested.
 
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