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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was hoping to change my ATF today the correct way....but I'm having serious difficulty dislodging the drain bolt. So, as a stop gap, I'm going to do a few extract and fills with a Mityvac.

So, how much debris actually accumulates on that drain bolt? Is it a neglibible or significant amount? I'm assuming regular ATF changes.

Thanks.
 

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Its a LOT @30K. I just did mine and it was quite a bit. Also, in the DIY thread there are multiple people who have posted their bolt pix so you can ascertain yourself if you want to skip.

I couldn't get the bolt off for an hour. Then, I got the brilliant idea of using my jack's pipe as a breaker bar to extend the wrench and viola the sucker came off in 30 seconds flat. :D

Used the same concept for the ATF fill bolt as well and that too only took 30 seconds to open up. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FINALLY got it loose....used my 1/4 drive with a 3/8 adapter.

My plug was covered with a dark grey slurry....somehow I expected metal filings or something, but this was the first time I'd seen one.

With the topsider extractions, fluid is now about 68% pure. I may do one more drain and fill....that would bring me up to 82%.
 

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Is the bolt easier to get off the second time around? I too failed at trying to pry it loose. Mechanic used a Cheater bar.
 

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It always pays to invest in a 3/8" breaker bar and a 1/2" if you do a lot of work. I have ruined many 3/8" ratchets from over using them. If you use a ratchet as a breaker, use a 1/2" ratchet with a 3/8" down-sizer or 1/2" socket, never try to use a 1/4" socket to break stuff free, they split very easily.

I have bent wrenches with breaker bars. :DD
 

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Atleast I am not too worried about breaking the wrench. Its a part of my Craftsman tool set and I only have to go a mile to the closest Sears to pick up a replacement if it ever breaks. :D
 

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Is the bolt easier to get off the second time around? I too failed at trying to pry it loose. Mechanic used a Cheater bar.
Not if it was retorqued back to factory specs the first time around. It'd take the same effort to break it lose if they torqued it right back to OEM specs.
 

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Atleast I am not too worried about breaking the wrench. Its a part of my Craftsman tool set and I only have to go a mile to the closest Sears to pick up a replacement if it ever breaks. :D
Craftsman ftw. Their wrenches are hard to bend. At least, for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not if it was retorqued back to factory specs the first time around. It'd take the same effort to break it lose if they torqued it right back to OEM specs.
I hope I torqued mine tight enough. New crush washer, good 'n' tight using 3/8 ratchet.
 

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I once broke a socket taking head bolts off... not once, but 3 times... they (sears) didn't complain once about that... I've seen wrenches "altered" that they replaced without question... (they were obviously altered - and no, I didn't do it)..
 

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I once broke a socket taking head bolts off... not once, but 3 times... they (sears) didn't complain once about that... I've seen wrenches "altered" that they replaced without question... (they were obviously altered - and no, I didn't do it)..
I once broke a 1/2 breaker bar ... but ok, it had a 3/4 adaptor and a large socket on it, plus a 3-4 foot pipe, AND I was standing on it .... (old VW rear wheel axel nut, long time ago)
 

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I hope I torqued mine tight enough. New crush washer, good 'n' tight using 3/8 ratchet.
36 ft-lbs. Get a torque wrench. It is so worth it.

OF
 

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i noticed when i changed my tranny the fluid- the dealer forgot to put a new washer in so i bought a bunch to use.
 
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