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The threads for my 2004 transmission drain hole are shredded. I have tried rethreading them and purchasing a new drain plug, but neither thing worked. I live on a military post and took the vehicle to our DIY shop. The mechanic their said I needed to get a new drain plug one size larger than my old one and then try to rethread it.

I called my local dealer as well as visiting three different auto parts stores, but none of them sale an oversized trans drain plug.

Any suggestions on where I can buy one? I have been looking on line, but I am not really sure what to look for and what the correct dimensions are to order.
 

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Buy a bigger bolt and tap that thread pitch into the tranny housing. Use a new crush washer and torque to 30 lbs-ft.
 

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I am going to second the Time-Sert kit. I have used them on Honda Oil Pans and they work very well.
 

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Just stripped the threads on my tranny drain bolt. Can't believe it because i used a good torque wrench. Is the heli-coil an option? What about metal shavings when I tap the hole? Any other suggestions? Is using Loctite even an option?
 

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Update on possible stripped tranny bolt. Well, maybe ... maybe not. I now seem to be getting it more snug with a 3/8" ratchet. Decided to stop at hand snug for now until I get some advice here. I DID use a new washer whereas last time I used the old one over again. Could it be that I the new washer is giving me a false sense of being stripped when in fact it is just still "crushing?" This is my 3rd drain & fill and I had no bolt issues with the 1st two. Plus, there are very few reports of this happening here at Ody ... stripped oil pan threads yes, but not so much regarding the tranny bolt. Any thoughts?
 

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ackack, if you haven't put in new ATF yet, the first thing I'd do is remove that plug and run your fingers in the threaded drain hole and see if any aluminum shards end up sticking to your finger. Also, some of them would be on the plug if it was truly stripped.

I don't replace the crush washer often on the oil or ATF drain plugs, but when I do, it does seem that it takes a little more turning to achieve the required torque value. It's almost un-nerving how much I have to turn it.

Once I just lost courage and borrowed a friend's beam style torque wrench and pulled my torque wrench against it as a quick-&-dirty calibration check. Yup, my torque wrench worked, and the new crush washer was "crushing" a little, which made for a LOT more turning of the wrench to get to the desired torque value. Honest, I was turning it to the point of being very worried that I'd stripped it.

OF
 

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Sadly, it is stripped. Torque wrench failed me. I had it set low at 30 when the spec is 36 but it never clicked even though I have used it recently for another job & it worked okay. Just bad luck I guess. Anyway, I will explore other options including oversize, heli-coil, & time sert. Anyone have some advice on the these methods? There isn't much room down there to use a drill but a a tap should fit okay I think.

However, one potentially encouraging thing I noticed was that, like the oil pan, the female threads in the tranny side are longer (more of them) than the threads on the bolt itself. I estimate that the trannys side is about 1.25 inches whereas the bolt threads are only about a half inch. With my flashlight, it appears that the farthest female threads are okay; ie more meat than the near side. I located a 18 x 1.5 bolt at Fastenal that is 30mm long, or about 1 3/16". Think that might work, anyone?

I realize that the new bolt would not have a magnet but I have never seen any metal shavings on my stock bolt, either this time or in the past. Plus I have a Magnefine. Moreover, this is an '02 which I plan to keep only one or two more years so I'm more concerned with fixing this disaster at a reasonable cost than insisting on an OEM bolt.
 

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I say go with the longer 18mm x 1.5 pitch bolt. You have a magnefine, which is much stronger than that little drain plug magnet.

Keeping my fingers crossed, and praying for some Christmas spirit to help you out, big guy. Man, having a torque wrnech not work when you need it....that is the worst luck of all.

OF
 

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Frankly 30 ft-lb is quite a lot of torque. I know that is what is in the specification but really it only needs to be snug enough so that it won't back out on its own. It is not like it is holding two halves of the transmission casing together.

Also the longer length bolt would definitely work. Just make sure it does not extend inside the housing beyond the threads.

This time, don't bother with torque wrench or keep it at the half specification. For crying out loud, even a spark plug gets tightened to under 20 ft-lb!
 

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sontakke; sir, I believe the spec is 36 ft-lbs., IIRC. ackack went with 30 ft-lbs., and this still happened. Almost makes me want to get a small hole drilled into the plug's perimeter and safety wire the [email protected] thing against an even lower torque value. I plan on keeping my vans for a while longer, and they have a lot of drain/refills ahead of them if that is my long term plan.

OF
 

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I can tell you that no mechanic is ever going to use a torque wrench on the drain or fill plugs. I understand Honda has spec'd them at 36 but I am claiming that value is too high. Even at 18 ft-lb, they are never going to come off on their own. Snug it and forget it. If it leaks, nudge it little bit more.
 

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I never had an issue torqing the tranny drain plug to spec. I do the same for the oil pan drain plug; my experience is they tend to leak whenever I tightened them without a torque wrench.
 

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I wipe dry the threads and mating surfaces then torque to spec. I feel the film of ATF may make the spec torque too high.

I also reuse the crush washer. Using a new washer gives me a sinking feeling when the bolt seems to turn forever before the click.

I probably have a severe case of aluminum phobia, but no leaks or other problems after 14 ATF changes.
 

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***snip***I also reuse the crush washer. Using a new washer gives me a sinking feeling when the bolt seems to turn forever before the click.***snip***.
Exactly! I almost had an aneurysm over this when the same thing happened with a new crush washer.

OF
 

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on youtube ericthecarguy says there is extra threads in the oil pan, threads are actually longer then the oem bolt, just take your bolt to the hardware store or maybe auto parts store and get a extra long bolt. he found a bolt but it was too long so he cut off some of the end and tapered it. you can just tap the hole bigger and use a bigger bolt like suggested here, but for me I've taken off the oil pan, that hondabond RTV sealants is toast, might as well redo the RTV, also since your their a new oil pan is like $100, why not?

Good day, same prob here, how did you resolve please?
 

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Go to the parts store and ask for a "Mercedes" plug. These are bolts that are longer than normal. Also, most oil change places keep these bolts on hand... because it's not uncommon that they strip the oil pan threads.
 

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on youtube ericthecarguy says there is extra threads in the oil pan, threads are actually longer then the oem bolt
I have heard that too.

However, even if it's true, there's probably not enough unused threads to tolerate full bolt torque just by themselves.

Dave
 
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