Is there a replaceable filter anywhere? I know it's normal in my older vehicles (non-Honda) to drain the fluid/replace fluid and then replace filter at same time. I have 2011 EX-L.2011-13 LX/EX/EX-L do not have an external filter.
2011-13 Touring/Touring Elite have an external filter.
All 2014-17 have an external filter
Sure, just remove the transmission from the van first. The external filter is the only filter that can be easily replaced.Is there a replaceable filter anywhere? I know it's normal in my older vehicles (non-Honda) to drain the fluid/replace fluid and then replace filter at same time. I have 2011 EX-L.
Wow! You have to completely drop the transmission and remove it to replace the filter that is usually in the pan?! That's a bad design. What do most people do? Just skip that part?Sure, just remove the transmission from the van first. The external filter is the only filter that can be easily replaced.
Yes, it's not really needed. Just keep up with fluid changes at least every 30k and you're good to go.Wow! You have to completely drop the transmission and remove it to replace the filter that is usually in the pan?! That's a bad design. What do most people do? Just skip that part?
Yeah, my issue is that I bought it with 129k miles on it and the fluid is darker. It's not burnt, but it isn't fresh either. I am changing it soon, but it sucks that I have to bypass changing a filter too.Yes, it's not really needed. Just keep up with fluid changes at least every 30k and you're good to go.
Best bet for you is to do the 3x drain and fill job. It replaces most of the ATF that way. Just drive a couple hundred miles in between drain and fills if you can manage it to mix the new fluid in there good.Yeah, my issue is that I bought it with 129k miles on it and the fluid is darker. It's not burnt, but it isn't fresh either. I am changing it soon, but it sucks that I have to bypass changing a filter too.
That's the plan, but I already bought a case of Honda fluid. Every mechanic I know and see (these are friends and online mechanics) says with Honda you should only use Honda brand fluids (mainly when it comes to transmission, steering fluid, and coolant. I don't want to risk it.Best bet for you is to do the 3x drain and fill job. It replaces most of the ATF that way. Just drive a couple hundred miles in between drain and fills if you can manage it to mix the new fluid in there good.
That should be fine. While other fluids can work, you can't really go wrong with Honda fluid. I usually stick with DW-1. If you don't want to pay the Honda price for it, you can get it from Idemitsu. They're the ones that make the OEM Honda fluid.That's the plan, but I already bought a case of Honda fluid. Every mechanic I know and see (these are friends and online mechanics) says with Honda you should only use Honda brand fluids (mainly when it comes to transmission, steering fluid, and coolant. I don't want to risk it.
There is no pan on (most) Honda automatic transmissions. It is built more like a manual transmission than an automatic.Wow! You have to completely drop the transmission and remove it to replace the filter that is usually in the pan?! That's a bad design. What do most people do? Just skip that part?
You should spend a little time under your van. The Honda 5-speed and 6-speed automatic transmissions don't have sump pans at all; the ATF drains from a port in the side of the transmission case itself.Wow! You have to completely drop the transmission and remove it to replace the filter that is usually in the pan?! That's a bad design. What do most people do? Just skip that part?
Why exactly are the lines getting corroded? If the coolant and trans fluid are changed on schedule, there should be no problems internally (in the bottom tank heat exchanger). Any corrosion external (this happens on the hard lines attached to the back of the radiator in the salt belt) will just cause a trans fluid leak but it won't mix fluid.cross contaminating coolant and transmission fluid when the lines in the radiator get corroded.
Yeah, not sure how corrosion would start in the sealed lines. I was asking more as a hypothetical situation. I live in a heavy road salt area so I’m always watching out for rust. I saw that Ridgeline video as a suggested video when I was looking up something else about the Odyssey and wondered if that should be something on our radar.Why exactly are the lines getting corroded? If the coolant and trans fluid are changed on schedule, there should be no problems internally (in the bottom tank heat exchanger). Any corrosion external (this happens on the hard lines attached to the back of the radiator in the salt belt) will just cause a trans fluid leak but it won't mix fluid.
I haven't seen one report of trans fluid and coolant mixing in this generation Odyssey. It theoretically can happen to any vehicle that uses a trans fluid / coolant heat exchanger though...
-Charlie
Nah, that's only for Toyotas.Yeah, not sure how corrosion would start in the sealed lines. I was asking more as a hypothetical situation. I live in a heavy road salt area so I’m always watching out for rust. I saw that Ridgeline video as a suggested video when I was looking up something else about the Odyssey and wondered if that should be something on our radar.
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I have one of those too. [emoji1787]Nah, that's only for Toyotas.![]()
When you don't take care of them and they are 20+ years old... (4Runner owner here...) For reference, here is the trans cooler from my 4Runner at 270k miles and around 20 years old. It had semi-regular trans fluid and coolant changes through its life.Nah, that's only for Toyotas.![]()