Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I will try and make this as concise as possible. 2000 Odyssey, 110K mi, original transmission, always serviced per recommended interval. My wife complained transmission was shifting harshly about the time I discovered this forum. Never any slipping, burnt fluid or similar issues. Found Jofei’s post about replacing the
TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH
SOLENOID VALVE/SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A Oring/screens and the tubes under the A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE
CONTROL SOLENOID
VALVE A and B and did the work.

I also changed the transmission fluid (completely) and installed a cooler and Magnifine filter.
All the tubes were absolutely clean but the round screen in the TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE/SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE A Oring was completely plugged. Oval screen clean. Not sure which solenoid the round screen is. After the work transmission felt absolutely perfect. Drove for a week with no problem. Yesterday my wife informed me “she barely made it home”
And there were “all kinds of flashing lights and tiny numbers/letters” on the dash. I started it up and the check engine light was on but nothing else. I had no way to read the codes so I cleared them by pulling the fuse for a fresh analysis. Check engine light now off and everything appeared normal. We live in a rural, hilly area so I had back roads of various terrains to test. Drove in 1 just fine. Put in 2 and drove just fine for quite a while up steep hills(at the appropriate speed for the gear with no slipping or abnormalities). Then for no apparent reason in 2 engine suddenly sped up as if it were put in N. After taking my foot off the gas pedal and coasting to a stop I put it in 1 and it harshly shifted into 1. This happened twice while driving for about 20 min. Each time was the same-it just felt as if it were put in N-not slipping-and then harshly shifted into 1. Then I went into D4 and drove to the freeway. Perfect through all the gears and lockup. I got on and off the freeway 4 or 5 times and was perfect every time. I drove around for an hour in city traffic and problem never happened again. Very concerned to let my wife drive it. Manual says possible shift solenoid valve A.
I did not pull the screens again-it’s quite a job to get to them.
Checked fluid and it looks and smells new.

Any ideas appreciated.
Tony
:huh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,227 Posts
If all the lights were lighted up, you might be having electrical problems. Is the battery new? If not, put one in before doing anything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Battery is nearly new Diehard Gold. By "all the lights" she probably meant lights she had never seen iluminated before. We are in a dry west coast climate so there is no corrosion issues.
Tks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
checking on the manual... i see that:
SSV - shift solenoid valve

in position 2 SSV-A is ON SSV-B is ON SSV-C is OFF
in position N SSV-A is OFF SSV-B is ON SSV-C is OFF

so it means that SSV-A is turning off for some reason,
but it could be several things.
- something is electrically loose... connector, or wire
- you should check the screens again
- you should check and test the SSV-A
could be something else entirely...

since it only happens on position 2. i think its electrical or the SSV-A

btw, what ATF are you using?

CK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm using Redline D4 ATF. Before I was using what the quick lube put in "Chevron Multi-vehicle ATF". I'm only changing the fluid myself from now on.
Drove around town all day today-only once did van rev briefly when taking off in first-took foot off gas pedal and it proceeded normally. No codes or lights. I'm thinking about pulling the selonoids again to look at the screens in case the installation of the cooler somehow introduced some contaminates into the system. Downshifts from 3-2 under load are a bit rough. Trying to recreate my wifes senario but has not happened yet. I'm trying to get some codes i can look at.
Tks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
checking the chart again...
3G is third gear, 2G is 2nd gear...

3rd gear to 2nd Gear
In position D4 3G SSV-A is ON SSV-B is OFF SSV-C is ON
In position D4 to SSV-A is ON SSV-B is OFF SSV-C is OFF
In position D4 2G SSV-A is ON SSV-B is ON SSV-C is OFF

In position D4 1G SSV-A is OFF SSV-B is ON SSV-C is ON

looking at those two, you might also want to check SSV-C but i think SSV-A is my main culprit.

and if i may suggest, add in some Racing ATF to reduce wear to clutches...

this forum_thread may help explain why


CK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
664 Posts
The only synthetic I'll use is the Amsoil Universal ATF.

But, my guess is that there was more crap in the system likely in the TQ converter. I'd be willing to bet along the lines of the same thing that was filled up previously is filled up again. Pull that solenoid again, and clean it out. You'll likely need to do this a few times till the crap exits the system into the filter. Oh yea, change out the filter in half the reccomended interval.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replys. Over there weekend there were 2 episodes of "slipping" in first gear on takeoff but releasing the gas pedal and then re appling caused a normal take off. No lights or codes so i don't think it was actually slipping-it seems the speed sensors would have detected if it were actual slipping and given a code. I am going to buy new selonoids to have on hand before I pull them again. If I eventuall end up there do rebuild transmissions have new selonoids/sensors on them? If so i would pull my "new" ones and keep them.
I may do a one time drain and refill with the lightweight racing fluid but as a precaution-I don't think that will correct my present problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I think rebuilt Trannies come with old solenoids. as far as i've seen. and try using racing instead of lightweight. so far it seems racing works better for me than lightweight.

CK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Hi Tony H,

Did you replace the selonoids, if yes please mention which selonoids you have changed and it resolved your problem?

Thanks a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
No I have not pulled the selonoids yet, Probably not for a few more weeks. Wife drove van yesterday with no episodes but I know things don't repair themselves.
Tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Rapid shifting deterioration

Drove all last week with only a few episodes of "slipping" but what was actually happening was it felt like I had put it in "N" and then a slight bump as if putting in "D" and then it drove normally. This always happened after coming to a stop. Then on out way to some friends on Thanksgiving the shifting rapidly deteriorated to very harsh "slamming" shifts even at very light throttle. It would rev to aprox 3500rpm and then slam into the next gear. Then it started rapidly hunting between gears slamming each time. At that point I stopped and shifted it manually with the shifter and made it home OK. It seemed to shift ok when using the shifter manually (starting in 1, then 2 and 3) so I am still hopeful I will find some crud in the screens. Waiting until next weekend before I start working on it. My wife will be driving my truck for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Update-found the round screen on the Torque converter/shift selenoid A plugged(totally) even with the Magnefine installed. Checked resistance on the selenoids-all within spec and they click when tested. So I am hoping the plugged screen is the cause. I have some questions about my Magnefine installation on another post. I won't be driving it until I get my Magnefine question resolved.
Tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Put it all back together and it lasted about 2 days before it failed again. So I ended up getting a rebuilt transmission installed. I don't feel bad because it lasted 109K. We are leaving on a 2 week vacation and I don't want our vacation ruined with car trouble so it was worth it. $3400 including replacing the rear main seal. Has anyone an opinion of H&A transmissions in So Cal?
The shop said I had to have a Magnifine and transmission cooler for the warrenty(which I have). I know it is probably a coincidence but after I changed the transmission fluid to Redline it deterioated very quickly. Hopefully with the cooler and Magnifine the new tranny will last even longer (109K)
FYI-the rebuilt had all new selenoids and sensors-nothing came off the old transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
No I do not know what failed. I believe the screen was being plugged by lining material. The transmission failed quickly once symtoms began even though I installed a cooler, magnifine and replaced/cleaned the screens twice. So from my experience once you dectect a problem it's too late.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top