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Discussion Starter #1
The rear main seal has starting leaking on my 2000 Honda Odyssey LX with 110K mikes . The oringinal transmission still seems to be fine ( aftermarket cooler and frequent ATF changes ) . I now face the task of R&R of the transmission for the rear main seal replacement . I am on the fence about just going for rebuilt transmission and let the shop fix the seal (and have warranty ) . However money is tight and I could just DIY R&R the transaxle and take the gamble on it lasting a lot longer . I have both the Haynes and Helm manuals but am looking for any tips for removing and reinstalling the transmission .

- Thanks
 

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let the rear main seal leak.

I helped a neighbor and removed the transmission from an 04 ody today, and it was hard work. For starters, the ENTIRE engine and transmission must be lowered as a unit. I tried and tried to figure a way to just pull the transmission, but there is such little room, I was worried about damaging the engine block, and damaging the new trans on re-install. The haynes and factory manual say lowering the engine and transmission together is the way to go.

Took me 6 hours to drop the trans and engine together. Left them in the cradle, and removed the axles after the engine cleared the body.

We never removed the radiator, the alternator and I did not disconnect the ac compressor from it's lines (as the haynes says you should). Instead, raised the body of the van 8 inches, then removed the compressor, and placed it to the side. Before starting, I welded together a little dolly that would allow me to roll the engine and trans as a unit once it was down.

Removing the old trans from the engine is easy, lots of connections, but easy...took me 2 hours to get the new trans on the engine block...having an extra pair of hands on this would greatly help.



Went to carparts.com, and found a used trans with 57k miles on it from the same vin range. the trans has a vin tag on it, so I ran a carfax...which verified the mileage and that the donor van was in a rear end accident. The donor van was still on the lot, so I got to inspect the odometer and level of damage (hoping the trans did not suffer any damage in the accident). It checked out. With tax, paid 1,100 for the replacement transmission.

Before installing the new transmission, I replaced the filter, and cleaned the solenoid screens. Everything looked clean.I also replaced the rear mount - it was 59.99 at Napa, could see a small crack in the old one, and figured it would be much cheaper to do now.

Convinced our friend that it would be a good idea to put in an inline filter and an external cooler...funds being tight, and having just spent over 1,100, she was weary and reluctant - fortunately, good sense prevailed (thanks board member Herraus for posting great links to both).

Everything back together now, van is running fine (shifting well). Going to have an alignment tomorrow, an extra trans flush, and should be ready for the road. No codes or other issues as of now.

If oil is leaking from your RMS, I would strongly suggest just leaving it - rms' can leak a long, long time without damage (other than to the environment). Not sure of your level of ability, but this isn't an easy job...it's a job I hope never to do again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
KGBTV -How long did it take you to get it back in? How many hour for the complete job ?

After reading your reply , I agree that there is too much effort involved unless the leaking seal is pouring out oil (more than a nuisance) .
The RMS job should be postponed until the transmission eventually requires replacement if at all possible. Who knows who long the transmission on my vehicle with 110K mi will last


Thanks for your helpful reply .

Also -

I just changed the oil and used one of the name brand high mileage oils that supposedly has seal conditioners. If that does slow the leak down to a minimum or stop it , I might try also the Bars Leak product .

Any other comments and advice are appreciated.
 

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KGBTV -How long did it take you to get it back in? How many hour for the complete job ?


Any other comments and advice are appreciated.
6 hours to drop the entire drive line, 2 hours to remove the axles, and transmission. Along the way we replaced the axle seals, the trans seal, new sub frame bolts, the drivers side axle (it pooped out of joint...my mistake) the rear engine mount, put in an external trans cooler, atf filter, the magnafine filter and cleaned out the solenoids. 2 hours to put the trans back on, 5 hours to put the engine back in...and 4-5 hours buttoning the little things up (which is today's fun!), changing fluids, bleeding brakes, etc, etc, etc. so maybe 20 hours total...I was told today that there is a way to remove the trans from with the engine in the car...but for the home diyer, dropping the drive line is easier.

The stop leak stuff is worth a shot - haven't ever really heard anyone who's said it worked for them, but as long as it does no harm (which I have no idea if it does) why not try them?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My expectation of this kind of stuff working is low . Is one brand better than the others ? Which one works best ?

Try using a different product. I used Bars stop leak when my van was leaking too from the RMS and it did not help...

Also, just for my knowledge and for helping others please post any more tips / videos / tutorials on DIY transmission R&R.
 

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As for RMS leak, try a thicker oil, like 10w-40 instead of 5w-30.
 

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I did the R&R on my trans in the driveway. I just pulled the trans and it was a lot of work and the going back in was the worst part. If I had it to do over again I would probably have done motor and trans as one piece and just done the timing belt/water pump early since it would have been ez to get to.

just my 0.02
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jester1020 can you please run through your trans R&R process . How long did it take ? - Thanks

BTW - No change in the RMS oil leak after about a week with the high mileage vehicle formularion oil (Maxlife). Domestic pressure (ahem) may require me to get the leak fixed . Given the about of R&R labor involved is it worth replacing the transmission that still works fine but has 110K miles . If I went with a rebuild , my first choice would be a reputable local shop with Honda experiene so I could get a waarnty that would cover all labor and parts . If the price were too high, I might have to fall back to a Gator or on of they ebay vendor rebuilds .

More discussion , advice is appreciated - PAul
 

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Have you checked the PCV valve? I asked about the RMS on the Acura forum and was told to definitely check the PCV value before doing anything else; that if it is clogged/inoperative, it could cause the RMS to leak.

Dave
 
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