[jdandrea]

I got a set of Rockford Fosgate Fanatic P's for my Ody ... and they fit w/o any mods. Sounds great. Of course ... there's a little issue of the tweeters. They're not in just yet.

Now, I'd like to replace the existing ones up front in the dash. Rockford et. al. insist (quite adamantly) that I use their crossovers if I'm going to do that. Don't just use a capacitor. OK, fine.

Now, um, exactly WHERE is the signal split to the door-and-dash? Right, just as I suspected. Probably can't get to it easily, right? It certainly isn't in the door well - or at least I didn't find it. Anyone?

So that leaves ... ugh, running new wire from the door up to the dash, disconnecting the existing tweeter, capping off the line (leaving it there) and placing the crossover on or within the door (provided the window doesn't get in the way). Tell me, someone, anyone, is this the ONLY way to pull this off? Has anyone actually done it?

The rear speakers are another issue since I want the sound of the components but want it to be as stealth an install as possible. (Couldn't find any RF coaxials that would fit.)

Now, the RF tweets come with three different mounts, one of which is a wedge that can be surface mounted (hmm, perhaps with velcro ... or does that have folks shouting sacrilege? heh-heh.) Has anyone installed component tweets in the rear of the Ody?

Clues welcome ... !

------------------
- JD

 

[shindog]

Hey JD,
Though I have strong opinions on tweeter placement (you can read in previous threads), here's some suggestions:

I recommend you don't mount the x-over in the door unless you can get it outside the moisture barrier; the components there are pretty susceptible to corrosion. Not sure if there is space or not...

OK, for mounting I suggest...

Option 1:
1) mount the x-over under a seat, under the dash, or something like that. then run the low pass up to behind the HU, and use the factory wiring to the door mid/bass. (if you are not using an outboard amp, this is just splicing the x-over b/w the HU and speaks, right at the HU.
2) run high pass to the sides of the car, and up the dash.

Option 2:
1) disassemble the x-over, taking out the tweeter components by de-soldering.
2) mount x-over in line to door mid/bass
3) mount x-over components directly to tweeter like honda did. At most this is a cap, inductor, and resistor. Should fit in the dash, unless the RF tweeter is exceedingly large.

Advice for rear tweeter mount: doesn't RF have a coax mount option as part of the kit? If not, why not fabricate mounts for the tweets to float them on top on the mid/bass?

Good Luck!

------------------
-SJ (former username: shinjohn)
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)

 

[jdandrea]

I'll check those opines on tweet placement, thx.

Also understood about the crossover going in the door w/o protecting it properly. We'll be careful.

I like the idea of mounting it near the HU or under a seat/dash. The gotcha is running a wire up to that tweeter (read: I confess ... my confidence level in routing wires in that tiny space isn't terribly high).

Also, I called RF - no coax mount option. Their advice: Use a backstrap, mount the tweeter to it, make a bridge that floats over the center, and attach across.

Of course, the FNP2414's fit nicely as it is ... and if I were to float a tweeter over that I have no idea if it would fit (but then, measure twice).

Worst case I'm OK taking this someplace to have it done in as stealth a manner as possible. But this is all good info. I'll mention this to the installers as well. Thanks! I'll post the results here soon.


------------------
- JD

 

[shindog]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jdandrea:

The gotcha is running a wire up to that tweeter (read: I confess ... my confidence level in routing wires in that tiny space isn't terribly high).
</font>

This isn't as scary as it sounds. Not very hard. Just remember to feed the cable in from the top, working down. MUCH easier this way. route the cables OUT, toward the doors, and then route back in, down the side of the dash, tucking the wires behind the panels.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
Their advice: Use a backstrap, mount the tweeter to it, make a bridge that floats over the center, and attach across.
</font>

Precisely what I'd say is the easiest.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
Of course, the FNP2414's fit nicely as it is ... and if I were to float a tweeter over that I have no idea if it would fit (but then, measure twice).
</font>

Yep, it's tight back there, but might fit. You'll probably just have to give it a try, measuring the clearance to the grill is tought to do!

Good Luck!

------------------
-SJ (former username: shinjohn)
'01 DEP EX, and I'm workin' on it! (slowly)

[This message has been edited by shindog (edited 11-27-2001).]

 

[jdandrea]

OK then. We'll give it a shot. Thx!

------------------
- JD

 

[texneus]

"Now, I'd like to replace the existing ones up front in the dash. Rockford et. al. insist (quite adamantly) that I use their crossovers if I'm going to do that. Don't just use a capacitor. OK, fine."

Which is certainly reasonable otherwise RF can't garantee the cross over point is at it's optimum for the set. To low of a high pass freqency may also burn out the tweeter.

"Now, um, exactly WHERE is the signal split to the door-and-dash? Right, just as I suspected. Probably can't get to it easily, right?"

I would highly recommend you get the Helm electrical manual and is worth every penny for this kind of work. I know it has the information you seek but I don't have it here. Going completely off memory, the wire harness on the head unit, speaker outputs and all, go through the under dash fuse block. I think L goes through one on the left side of the vehical, the R on the right side. The only exception is one of the rear speakers is wired directly to the head unit, which struck me as really odd.

I do not know where the cross over is but for installing a custom system I would scrap the factory wiring anyway and run new wire directly pig tailed from the head unit. That way you put the cross over where it fits best and keep the wiring direct without wierd detours that can be detrimental to sound quality (such as running it through a fuze block...).

As for the tweeters, I also recommend you do not use the factory locations. Personally I think mounting them high on the doors would be preferable to putting them in the dash corner where they reflect off anything and everything before they reach you. Better places yet might be about ear level in the front pillar or in the dash near the side airvents (pointing up), if there is room.