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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, first post here and happy Odyssey owner.

Vehicle is 2012 EX-L, with just over 100K miles on the clock. Engine threw a P0303 code yesterday and the van is at the dealership now for repair at their expense (spark plugs 1-4 and piston rings). While they are in there I'm having them do the timing belt and changing the rest of the spark plugs. I could probably do those if I had to but I just don't have the time.

The guys there mentioned that we ought to have the valves checked and adjusted. I'm not sure I'm okay with another $600 on top of the timing belt bill. Looking through the forum here I see lots of mention of valve adjustments on previous gens but nothing on the 4th gen. Is it necessary? If not I'm going to have them wait on that.

-Kevin
 

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150k miles seems to be the concensus, and you might be able to get it done for closer to $400 or a little less at an independent shop.
 

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Welcome to Odyclub!

As @John U and @Ruthrj18 have already indicated, valve adjustments are called for on these engines but you are still early. You can put it off for a while without much worry.
 

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Thank you all for the advice. I went ahead and called the dealership and let them know to pass on the valve adjustments for now.

I'd rather put that money into other things like installing a muzzle, transmission fluid drain and fill, and other general maintenance.
 

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Good move. I adjusted the valves recently on my 2011 LX, along with the timing belt at 105k miles. Very similar (identical?) to my '99 in this area.

I agree with the other comments. It's generally accepted that it's OK to wait until 150k. It requires manifold removal and new gaskets for the valve covers, manifold, etc.

My valves did need adjusting, meaning they all got moved, but I had no performance issues before or since.

I did them because doing it myself, it just cost me some time and the new gaskets. Also, I like to keep things running well and know that if I ever get something not quite right in how it runs, I might be wondering whether it's the valves. So it's a pre-emptive repair to make other diagnosis easier.
 

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I see myself doing the same thing down the road, oldskewel. Hopefully I’m up to it when the time comes lol. Seems easy enough, just tedious and time consuming.
 

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Here are the pre-adjustment measurements on my 2011 LX at 105.6k miles, with no problems at all, prior to adjustment. I expect this is typical, since the car is pretty normal in every way.

Intakes were set to 0.20 mm, exhaust set to 0.28 mm (both of those targets are the low end of the spec range), since on average all valves loosened up I aimed for the tight end of the range.

2 values are for the left and right valves in each pair, when facing the engine from the front of the car

all values are in .01 mm

cylinder # -- intake ::::: exhaust
spec -- 20-24 ::::: 28-32
1 -- 27, 30 ::::: 39, 40
2 -- 32, 30 ::::: 38, 38
3 -- 30, 31 ::::: 34, 38
4 -- 29, 34 ::::: 35, 40
5 -- 26, 24 ::::: 32, 35
6 -- 27, 30 ::::: 34, 33

So, for example, this means that before adjustment, the intake valve clearances on cylinder #3 intake valves were 0.30 mm on the starboard one and 0.31 mm on the port one. They were both then adjusted to the tight end of the specified range = 0.20 mm.
 

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Oldskewel, it would be interesting to know if and how long the engine has been muzzled, vcm deactiv?
Thanx for posting the great valve info!
 

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Oldskewel, it would be interesting to know if and how long the engine has been muzzled, vcm deactiv?
Thanx for posting the great valve info!
I assume the PO did not muzzle. I put one in at 64k miles, just because it took me that long to get around to it. I fairly recently installed a switch so it can be turned off when wanted, but it's basically left muzzled all the time.
 

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Honda maintenance schedule says to adjust valves every 100,000 miles IF they are noisy. If they’re still quiet, leave it alone and save your time and money.
 
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