Oh, and also check your engine and wire-harness ground straps. There's usually one under the steering pump or on the passenger side engine mount. Not sure where else, but I guarantee there's also a big one on the transmission side.

 

How does the engine run?
I'd check all electrical connections I "touched" upon disassembly and assembly; probably hoses, too.
Erase codes and start the engine again.
Usually I mark every part, hose, wire connector I remove with a painters blue tape, or take the pictures pointing at the part, hose, connection I intend to take apart, remove, unplug.
If I use blue tape, I can see that part wit blue tape has been "worked on" and I need to find where it goes to, if I don't remember. Like a LEGO. Or look at the pictures.
If (rather, when) I miss some step(s), I watch other people's videos to re-trace the steps.
Don't worry - you'll fix it.
Sometimes, I take a break (an hour, or a day) and come back "refreshed".

 

Gentlemen, i have followed your instructions and I discovered that I forgot to plug in the bank 1 ignition coils…lol. I plugged it all in and then erased the codes. I ran the van around my block. No CEL. I will run more test but this is encouraging.

 

Also, there is no longer any excess smoke from the exhaust. I'm happy for some of these preliminary good signs. 🤞

 

OH YEAH!!! THAT'S THE BEST NEWS I HEARD ALL WEEK! Still praying for you.

 

GGRREEAATT !!!!

 

Way to go!

 

This is one of the best forum threads I've followed in a long, long time.

 

Thanks, everyone! Because of your many contributions to my project, my celebration is our celebration. I will continue to perform test runs to confirm a fix. I plan to compile a concise summary of this job and post it here. All the best, everyone!

 

Piston Ring Job

Tools

• ½, 3/8, ¼ assortment of ratchets, wrenches, and sockets. Also, a stubby set is convenient.
• The most used sockets are 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19 mm. Be sure to have shallow, deep, and swivel heads. Also, have a bolt extractor set ready.
• The cylinder head and piston bolts need 14mm and 10mm 12-point sockets. I recommend deep and slim sockets.
• Have a ½ and 3/8 ratcheting breaker bars.
• I purchased a stubby 12mm Capri wave drive wrench for a stripped nut on the front head connecting the water piping to the head. A socket does not fit in the space, and this nut sits adjacent to the starter. A stubby wrench is the perfect tool for this nut.
• Various extensions for all drive heads.
• Power tools: impact and ratchet wrenches. Have a big and compact impact wrench.
• Digital angle torque wrench. (I recommend this tool for the job)
• straight (.0015-.035) and angled feeler gauge (.05-.025)
• Gasket scraper, razor blades, and red scotch brite pads.
• Performance Tool W80575 Piston Ring Compressor Pliers
• OTC 7419 Timing Tensioner Locking Pin Set
• Rubber Vacuum Caps Plug Kit, 102 PCS Assorted Vacuum Plugs Hose End Caps Assortment Kit for Carburetor, Manifold, Automotive 3/16'' 5/16" 7/32" 1/4" 5/32'' 3/8'' (optional. You can use cut off tips of rubber gloves to cap off lines)
• A roll head prybar to pry open the oil pan.

Rental tools from Autozone.

• Master disconnect 57318
• Honda crankshaft damper holding tool 27279
• Timing gear holder 647835
• Serpentine belt tool 57115
• Piston ring compressor 57039

Parts

• I purchased Honda kits and parts for the front and rear heads.
• Front cylinder head kit: 06110-RGW-A00
• Rear cylinder head kit: 06120-RGW-A00
• The kits contain head gaskets, catalytic converter gaskets, camshaft thrust plate gaskets, camshaft seal, valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, valve cover bolt caps, three tube seals, water piping gaskets, water connecting pipe gaskets, injector base gaskets, inlet manifold gasket for their respective heads. Warning that the front and the rear kits have the same items, meaning that if you purchase both kits, you will have an extra set of water piping gaskets and inlet manifold gasket. I did not compare the cost if I piecemealed it. Also, I decided to go with Honda Original on these items, especially the valve stem seals.
• Cylinder head bolts: 90005-PAA-A01 (You will need 16 if you decide to replace the old ones. I installed new Honda original head bolts.)
• Thermostat: 19301-P8E-A10
• Oil control orifice assembly: 15140-P8A-A00 (You will need 2)
• I purchased Nippon piston rings.
• Nippon Rings Distributor information:
• Engine Parts Specialist 213-222-0995 or 213-867-0166
• Be sure to give them your engine model number. Mines is J35A7. The piston ring size is standard
• 1 Honda piston ring set cost is $33. (6*$33=$198 or 4*$33=$132. This is before taxes and shipping) The Nippon piston rings cost for all six pistons is $47 plus freight cost $35. Thus, the total for Nippon rings cost was $82. I replaced all the rings on all my pistons.

Chems

• Honda bond: 08718-0004 (To prevent the Honda bond from hardening in the tube opening, squeeze some petroleum jelly into the cap and then cap the Honda bond tube.)
• Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz. Red (This is to lube the camshaft, rocker arms, piston rod bearings and valve springs.)
• Brake clean, carburetor cleaner, throttle cleaner, electrical connector cleaner and some clean 5w-20 motor oil in a condiment bottle for lubing small items.
• 5.3 qts of oil, 2.5 gallons of honda coolant.

Procedure

• Relieve fuel pressure
• Disconnect negative battery terminal
• Remove air box
• Remove throttle body
• Remove intake manifold
• Fuel line removal
• Fuel line rail and fuel injector removal
• Remove ignition coils and spark plugs.
• Drain oil and coolant
• Detach power-steering pump and hang from the hood.
• Timing belt removal procedure
• Disconnect the exhaust pipe from both the catalytic converters.
• Disconnect front and rear catalytic converters from heads. (I left both converters in the vehicle.)
• Disconnect wire harness on the top. (I strongly recommend removing the plastic cover that holds the wire harness on the rear valve cover.)
• Remove alternator
• Remove EGR valve.
• Detach the O2 bracket on the front and rear head.
• Detach wires from the bracket on the passenger side of the rear head.
• Detach the water piping.
• Unbolt and remove cylinder heads
• Disconnect crankshaft sensor.
• Detach and drop oil pan
• Remove oil baffle.
• Remove pistons.
• Replace rings.
• Reinstall everything in reverse order. You have to do a valve adjustment.

Quick notes:

• This concise listing of tools, parts, chemicals, and procedures I used to remove and install my piston rings.
• I used many resources from youtube, alldata, and tips from our forum members.

Conclusions

• Set time up for the job. If you only focus on replacing piston rings, you will get through this job faster than I did. But I did get my cylinder heads cleaned and valves replaced, meaning I did a little more work.
• It is okay to walk away from the job for a day or two. Get recharged, then get back in there.
• My wife assisted me in the head reassembly. If you can get help, accept it. It will make the job faster. Watch videos. search our forum. If you're able, subscribe to AllData or Repair Surge for the technical information or purchase a manual. Bottom line get as much information as you can for this job.
• Triple-check everything. Go slow. Don't rush.
• This is a challenging job. But after I've performed it, I would say it is not difficult. Before undertaking a piston ring job, I caution you to work on some of these components. I have progressed in my DIY skills by taking on some of these items before my piston job. In other words, do not make a piston ring job your first work ever on your vehicle.
• Finally, one of our forum members mentioned prayers. I believe in that comment.
• If anyone is looking to do this job and is asking for tips, I'm willing to share any of my experience with you.

 

usx21518,
Happy Easter and thank you for the write up. It'll be very helpful for the others.
As for the prayers, one can also add a favorite drink.

 

That is a must!

 

CHEERS to many more miles!

 

I ran my van last night. I got a p0137 code. There were no misfires. The code is for the O2 bank 1 sensor 2 low-voltage circuit. I will check the O2 connections. Also, it has been suggested that there could be a leak along the pipe after the sensor. If so, I'm going to purchase some exhaust putty to seal the leak. I thought I was done.

 

Bank 1 is the x3 VCM side. The side that can run cold for extended periods of time while pulling exhaust from the opposite bank. Now that you have the engine operational again, you may start to uncover the abuse that the cats and o2 sensors have suffered.

If it's not simply a bad connection or sensor or simple exhaust leak, you can always just put a "spark-plug defowler" over the sensor and continue on driving.

 

I did not disconnect the O2 sensor connected at the bottom of the cat during my work. However. As I began to reassemble the bottom side of the engine, i was moving the rear cat in many ways to reassemble that area. I'm wondering if all that movement may have slightly loosened the O2 sensor at the bottom. The cats and O2 sensors are new. Also, I did have the exhaust pipe hanging loose on the bottom. I'm wondering if that put some stress on the connection to the resonator and possibly created a leak. I will look into the defowler option if there are no connection or leak issues.

 

Fun stuff, valve adjustment is. Then hope and pray it’s done right when you crank it up. 😅

 

This was not a valve adjustment job anymore after first couple pages, more or less DIYer learning and practising an engine rebuild with machineshop assistance.

 

It looks like B1S2 is not working. I will check the connectors on the car and the sensor to verify where the issue is.

 

usx21518, the Internet is boring without you!

 

View attachment 182459

usx21518, the Internet is boring without you!

I plan on breaking something so I can keep this thread open

 

If you need help, just call me! ))

 

What's up, every one it's been a while since I posted. I have the P0137 code, bank 1 sensor 2 circuit low-voltage. On April 1, I checked my connections to the rear cat and harness on top. It is all solid. I finally got under my van tonight and checked the exhaust pipes. Here is what I found.

I'll do a search for patching the flex pipe. Or do I need to replace it? If so, I need to replace the entire exhaust system because the y pipe is welded to a straight pipe which is welded to the resonator. Oh the joys of my adventure.

 

Hi, long time no see.
Can you hear the exhaust gases from underneath your car? Loud?
Don't patch the flex pipe, the patch will crumble and leak exhaust gases anyway (in a few days).
I had a similar situation on my 2002 and, ultimately, had to replace the whole pipe section with that flex pipe.
Be prepared to extract some rusted bolts/studs.

 

Hi, long time no see.
Can you hear the exhaust gases from underneath your car? Loud?
Don't patch the flex pipe, the patch will crumble and leak exhaust gases anyway (in a few days).
I had a similar situation on my 2002 and, ultimately, had to replace the whole pipe section with that flex pipe.
Be prepared to extract some rusted bolts/studs.

Yes, I can hear a loud sound under my car. I've been looking at Rock Auto for the parts. I need to purchase the y-pipe, under-the-floor cat, and muffler. Rock Auto sells these items. Do you have any recommendations as far as which brand to purchase?

 

Vehicle was probably the victim of converter theft at some point. That sucks. Maybe go to a muffler shop and get a quote on replacing the flex joint. Should be an easy job to cut it out and weld a new one in.

 

I had a similar issue with a failed bellows flex joint on the y pipe (aka J pipe) that attaches to the engine exhaust manifolds. I had to have a new pipe installed. It was pretty expensive.

 

Update: I did a 15-mile drive between 45-60mph. No CEL. I enjoyed that. I still plan on getting the flex pipe replaced. But I was pleasantly surprised.

 

Well that's more good news. Thanks for the update.