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thank you for your efforts and followup

what's the effect of having too high a resistance & how accurate a window is preferable ?
It seems to be 82 to 100 ohms depending on climate

I'd like a "kit" for a 2012 EX...I live in high summer heat & humidity New Orleans, so whatever resistor(s) appropriate ... will send PM
 

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that's great news !!!
what resister was installed ???

Just an update. Today I put about 350 miles, mostley interstate, 70 to 75 mph, with the vcm not engagining a single time! The outside temp at onetine was 94. Sorry I did not check mpg, but i dont think it changed. Most enjoyable ride since I bought this 2005 ex-l 30000 miles ago.
 

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I'm leaning toward doing the mod myself and not waiting for the oem connector plug kits. I'm planning a long vacation and want to have the mod installed before the trip.

that said, I recommend weatherproof connectors...spade connectors are fine, but I'm going with bullet connectors which are lower profile. these connectors have heat shrink and sealing adhesive already built into the product. I purchased a pack of Male (85269) & a pack of Female (85268) bullet connectors from AutoZone for $6 each pack of 10.
 

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cool...so did I four weeks ago from my local dealership...mine's a pristine Silver EX...I live in the deep south and am not a fan of leather plus they were selling them at cost...$21k out the door
I too am going to shut down it's VCM/ECO

Just bought a 2012 Ody with 30,000 miles on it off someones lease. Reading everything online I'm all over this mod. PM'ing verbatim to see how to get one of these
 

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still on the fence whether to purchase the kit with OEM connectors, here's what I did as an exercise for anyone who decides to cut the sensor wire and install a resistor in line
it's a 100ohm resister crimped inside weatherproof barrel connectors with black heat shrink "hiding" the whole unit

pics at
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mholiver/sets/72157653348438495
 

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I bought a 2012, but strongly considered a 2007 because of price only
I figured I would seek one with 70-80k miles
(not cause of VCM...I only learned of this the past few weeks after my sale)

I do/did know the timing belt change on the maintenance schedule is 105k mi
and you are looking at approx. $1000 to have it done including replacing the water pump since the front of the engine is already apart...factor that in

But you might be fortunate to find one after the belt was done by the previously owner
be sure to check along with running online the VIN that all recalls were taken care of

I am more troubled/pissed that Honda insists on their 6 cyl engines having timing belts when the rest of the world including their 4 cyl engines have chains. I don't get it and I guess I'm a head in the sand Honda loyalist. Actually it's cause my best friend is a 20 yr sales veteran at my nearby Honda Stealership and he let's me know of the best deals. My daughter (no injury) totaled her 2002 Civic I bought from him, and needing a car immediately, he had a 2008 Camry on the lot I purchased. My 99 Van's suspension was beat to death from New Orleans post Katrina streets and I wasn't willing to put in over $1000 to make it safe again...couldn't find a Sienna, but he had a 2012 on the lot sitting over 75 days and they sold it to me at cost/lost. I only wanted a EX cause of the extremely hot weather here and the burns on the back of my thighs from the leather Lexus I owned in the 90's.

So I am looking to upgrade to a newer gen Ody. I am looking at 05/06 range vans; from what I read, from 05+ the EX-L and Touring ALL have the VCM (ECO). Is this correct? It seems to be a potential major issue :(

The van I am looking at is a single owner - fully serviced by Honda (even oil changes, tire rotations etc)- with 98K miles. It is the EX-L model, and I am kinda freaking out right now about this VCM crap!!

I do know that according to the owner the van was mostly hwy driven with 25-30% in town driving if that matters..
 

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excellent...very impressive & professional
before I make a final decision on your product:

I'm curious where the 120ohm decision came from when that wasn't tested by anyone...the testing experience was with 82 & 100 ??? Is there any real concern for too high a resistence and if the test of enough resistence is the ECO light not coming on, is there a test for too high a resistance being installed and should be lowered ???
so will you offer the already tested 100 ohm ???

thank you verbatim and thanx to all for the efforts
 

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that's a very sound van there...I wouldn't hesitate to buy it based on what shape it's in and how it's been maintained...

Thanks guys! The van has had an excellent service record, the owner did everything through Honda, just had timing belt, water pump, trans flush, new tires etc.. This guy seems pretty meticulous with the van. I am going to look at it today.. I am definitely doing the VCM Muzzler (once I figure out how to get one - by reading through this thread more)

Here is what he stated in his ad.

Do not even consider buying this 2005 Honda Odyssey - - - Unless you want a vehicle that: Has had only one owner its whole life Has been garage kept its whole life Has had no accidents Is fully loaded with all the goodies Is as close to spotless inside and out as you'll ever find Has been well taken care of mechanically Has a new set of tires bought 5 months ago that have only about 8,000 miles on them Has had a full timing belt replacement package Had an oil change within the last 2 months and is still at 60% Had its transmission fluid changed about 7,000 miles ago. Selling to buy a new Odyssey, recently retired and planning many long road trips. The mileage on this van is about a quarter city miles and three-quarters highway miles. It's strong and stable on the road, with navigation, and rear-seat entertainment center; and the rear pit is perfect for groceries. The navi database was updated about 5 years ago. We just drove it back from Florida via some other southern states, for a total of about 1900 miles. The car performed flawlessly, as it has since the day we bought it, and it has been lovingly taken care of. This is our second Odyssey, and the third one is on its way. Full maintenance records available. Wire transfer or US currency only. All scheduled maintenance, All records, Always garaged, Excellent condition, Factory GPS system, Looks & drives great, Seats like new, Very clean interior, Well maintained
 

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btw, I didn't know anything about an "electronic motor mount" ... what and how does that work and some of you have had to replace it on older vans at high cost? Vibration from VCM1 wore it out?

on my 2012, I can't tell without looking at the light if VCM has engaged. It is butter smooth the transition which is something I paid close attention to during the test drive and found the same in the 5k miles I've driven it post sale (it had 30k upon purchase). I suppose that's why I have not felt any rush.n my 2012, I can't tell without looking at the light if VCM has engaged. It is butter smooth the transition which is something I paid close attention to during the test drive and found the same in the 5k miles I've driven it post sale (it had 30k upon purchase). I suppose that's why I have not felt any rush.
 

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pappy, DerbyDad03, terrykalaka, et al
friendly suggestion:
it would be helpful if when there's any post results of a road test, mention what resistance/ohms installed and approx. climate temp at the time
thanx
 

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I can only suggest to triple check the correct connector was modified:
check pic in post #3 here...
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/237369-disable-vcm-how-2005-2007-odyssey-s.html

I have followed this and other VCM threads closely and since I don't consider myself to be a novice, went about installing my own 82 ohm resistor to the ect1 wire. It kept my odyssey, a 2008 EXL from starting. It has always started great. I used butt splice crimp connectors. If I disconnected the ect1 connector the van would start, though with Cel and other warnings, vsa...etc. I tested the resistor and my connectors after pulling off the resistorand it readt81 or 82 ohms, connections were good. It was a 1/4 watt. I have a CEL and it should clear after I drive it. Any thoughts what went wrong? It has me puzzled beyond belief. I did the oil sensor disconnect but can't deal with the Cel. My paint has fallen off my van and this will be the last new Honda I everbuy. Dealers would do nothing for my paint Peeling off. But I'm off the subject. The van was under warranty when the paint problems arose. Its Taffeta white. What is keeping my van from starting with the 82 ohm trick?
 

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homemade muzzler

made up my own muzzler and installed it on my 2012 EX today...first test was 50 miles of interstate & highway roads, level ground, cruise set to multiple speeds; ECO light never came on, not once...dash thermometer showed 90-105F "outside"
120 ohm resistor (also have some 100ohm, but not used in a test so far)

I used locking, 2 pin JST connectors plus
100 & 120ohm 1watt 1% metal film resistors
all purchased cheaply off ebay

the resistor is contained in a center section with connectors at each end
(heavy use of heat shrink tubing and wire loom)
the OEM sensor plug wires were cut and same connectors soldered on
the section with resistor can easily be removed...different sections with different resistors are easily created

Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive engine part
Wire Technology Electronic device Electrical wiring Cable
Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive engine part Suspension
 

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been running my home made muzzler for 2000mi with 120ohm resistor (post 341)...
no ECO light ever, but recently on a 200mi trip in 100F temps, it threw a code
with illuminated check engine light
the code was "coolant sensor temperature below threshold"
guess I'll replace it with one that is 100ohm
I cleared the code today and will report any other issues

also, weird...the numeric mpg readout shows 19mpg most all the time since the code
the bar graph is accurate, but not the numbers...the van still goes the same miles per tank of gas as always...will try resetting the info screen and see what happens
 

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I've read all the posts from the beginning and as far as I know/remember, it is...
as far as once installed and running it over time
there are reports that if it's installed on other than a stone cold engine, a code has occasionally been thrown, that there is the risk of it
there's good reporting of the 80ish ohm resister being used, and some of the 100ohm
I believe there's less reporting of experience with the 120, but not sure

Is this the first post we've seen here reporting a CEL/code possibly related to a VCMuzzler type device?
 

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I do preach VCMuzzler to family & friends who have Hondas. My brother has a '11 & '15 Accord and I've mentioned it since he bought the '15 two years ago and I already had my Ody muzzled. Not sure why exactly, but finally he looked into it on Accord forums and was convinced VCM was bad. He found an inexpensive kit on ebay with the OEM plugs that you assemble yourself and went with that for both cars.

I'll also say I have a close friend who is and has been a local dealership salesman for decades. He stated the service dept knows the issues and even has changed out an engine or lower end under warranty or with a courtesy repair without admitting cause implying they don't attack an owner for lack of maintenance being the cause (that happens in other cases). That said, they unadmittedly know of the reports and do or say nothing negative when cars are brought in for service muzzled. I think they look the other way for personal attitudes/reasons even though they have to publicly tow the Honda line on the subject.
 
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