VCM - A better way to disable.

621410 Views 2107 Replies 524 Participants Last post by verbatim, 7 d ago

verbatim

Discussion Starter · Apr 5, 2015 (Edited by Moderator)

Hello there,

First of all, I'd like to say that I'm not an Ody owner; I own a Pilot. Like many other Pilot owners, I had problems with VCM causing vibrations when activated, particularly during cold weather. Not knowing what VCM was or what it was all about, I took to my computer to learn all about it and decided very quickly that it is flawed technology, leading to grief for many, including oil bypassing and excessive consumption, misfire, plug fouling, vibrations issues and potentially long term engine damage. I also learned quickly that there is no good way to disable it without causing CEL codes and disabling other systems when removing the connector on the oil pressure switch.

Because I believe Honda only created VCM to improve its fuel efficiency ratings, meet CAFE regulations and sell more cars, I devised a better way to disable it. VCM isn't suitable for an engine. Both Honda and GM have proven that now. Their PCM flashes, component swaps, extended warranties, and TSBs prove that.

So I believe I've solved this for those that want to disable it. I've come up with a solution that isn't through programming as nobody has figured that out yet, but I've used it for about 2-3 months now, and I love it. My Pilot runs like a dream, and I love having no VCM activated. The drop in Mileage is minimal. Others urged me to spread the word specifically to the Ody forums because many Ody owners are unsatisfied with this technology also that honda has forced upon us. My searches here have confirmed that to be true.

My solution creates no CEL codes, can be installed in about a minute, and can be reverted to stock in the same amount of time when you want to take it to the dealership.

I've checked with the moderators, and they seem open to me posting this in the classifieds section, but I want to make 100% sure before I do. It's been a popular fix, and I want to help others rid themselves of VCM. Engines aren't meant to drop cylinders; nobody has been able to do it without issues. Having said that, I'm not saying that VCM always causes problems. Most owners are either not sensitive enough to its side effects, or their vehicles never experience any issues. However, there are plenty of others that are.

This has all been discussed over and over in many forums, so I don't want this to be another divided debate on whether VCM is good or bad; I'm just offering up my solution to those who hate it as I do. I was seriously considering selling my Pilot, but now I love it.

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John Clark

· #436 · Jul 24, 2015

I'm also running the VCMuzzler II with the 82Ohm resister. I live in Charlotte, NC, and its been around 95-100 with added heat index for humidity. I do see the ECO light once in a while if driving the car after it sits for a short time or in stop and go traffic. Most of the time it's off and I don't see any reason to jump to the 120Ohm resister just for that occasional VCM kick in. Haven't monitored the mileage but I don't really care how it affects it. I like that it runs on all six nearly all the time.

One thing I don't recall seeing discussed...I was reading a Tech News document someone here posted about the maintenance minder and how it works. Apparently, it uses engine temperature and driving distances, along with mileage to determine when to kick on the service due message. Does anyone know if the maintenance minder computer uses the ECT1 for it's data? If so, it might modify it's intervals...not a big deal, just wondering.

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John Clark

· #440 · Jul 25, 2015

5.56 said:
I don't know for sure but I do know I keep my own intervals. I don't care what anyone says after doing my research on bobistheoilguy.com and seeing a 2005 engine that failed due to sludge messing up the vtec solenoid after using Mobile 1 and the maintenance minder I decided I can decide better. 5k miles max with Penzoil Platinum. Any way I don't know if it affects the maintenance minder but I had thought of that but since I do ATF at 50kmiles and oil at 5k and air filter at 30k I decided I just don't need the minder. Oh ya coolant ever 60 months and brake fluid every 36 months. I even do the Turku Bastet drain and fill with the power steering fluid every 50k. Keep in mind I consider my driving to be more severe than average. Even so my MM was letting me go 7-8k before oil change with all stop and go FL traffics before the VCM Muzzler. No thanks.

I'm not advocating to not use the VCMuzzler if it affects it. Just wondered if anyone knew if that's where the minder gets its info from.

John Clark

· #444 · Jul 25, 2015

Right that's what I read that sparked my question. There was discussion early on in this thread about what ECT1 affected but the MM was never discussed. I actually wouldn't mind if it shortened oil life slightly. I just wouldn't mind knowing if it does.

John Clark

· #447 · Jul 25, 2015

verbatim said:
I was under the impression that the MM only used engine RPM count but if it does use ect1 temp I agree that the slightly shorter MM period due to a slight drop in perceived temp isn't a bad thing. I think their MM intervals are too long anyway in my opinion.

It definitely uses engine temp...just not sure if it uses ECT1 or not. It's possible it uses the same sensors the fans do...I don't know. Just something to consider.

Another question I have is, I have to go in for an inspection in the next month or so, so I plugged in my scanner to make sure all is well. I noticed two stored codes from the last time I worked on the car (like a moron I turned on the key without the a couple of items plugged back in under the hood (doh!) and popped a couple of DTC codes.) I plugged everything back in without clearing the codes and, as expected, eventually the MIL went out on it's own. Well, I noticed the codes were still there yesterday and cleared the codes. Has anyone noticed if there are any issues with the VCMuzzler causing readiness monitors to take longer to go into ready status since ECT1 is reporting the engine never getting up to temp? We know it doesn't cause any codes but does it have any affect on readiness monitors? It's been driven twice and everything is "ready" except for CAT and EVAP. I know those two can take a bit longer than the rest, even without the VCMuzzler...just wondering if anyone has cleared codes with the VCMuzzler plugged in and noticed a difference in drive cycles required to go back to normal.

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John Clark

· #455 · Jul 29, 2015 (Edited)

Yeah, it's strange how some have problems and some don't. Since the day I bought my 08 Touring brand new I have tried to see if I could feel the VCM kicking in and out. I've never been able to feel a thing. I see the light turn on and off but for the life of me cannot feel it. I have 130K on it now and installed the VCMuzzler a few weeks ago. Just for kicks, while changing the oil today, I pulled the plugs that have about 35K miles on them. They all look identical and look normal. I still have the plugs from the first 95K and they all look normal, though the ones from the back are just ever so slightly a little darker than the fronts but it's almost unnoticeable. They probably would have gone another 50K without issue. After 130K miles and 7 years, the engine burns about 1/3qt of oil between oil changes using the Maint. Minder which is about 6-7K.

I'm hoping the VCMuzzler prevents the piston/rings problems many have but also will prevent some wear on my motor mounts which I don't look forward to changing....neither the cost, nor the amount of work they appear to be to change.

My only concern is how long the cheap resistor will last with the severe temperature changes it has to endure. I think I'll just make a habit of checking the resistance of it with my meter every other oil change or so to make sure it's still at the proper resistance.

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John Clark

· #457 · Aug 3, 2015

verbatim said:
Some feel the vibrations, some do not, that's true. Some experience the oil bypassing, excessive consumption, misfire codes, fouled plugs, ring damage and need to get it fixed and some do not. Those that have problems don't necessarily have vibrations.

The "cheap" resistor is flameproof and can withstand high temperatures for long periods of time. Resistors are typically stable electronic components that fail very seldom. I've ran the same one in my Pilot since January and have not seen the resistance change one bit. That's under very cold and very hot conditions. The resistor is being worked very very little in this application as this is just a very low current voltage divider circuit used for signal purposes. The resistor's 1/2 W rating is so far above what is needed for this that I would hazard to guess that the resistor will be working just fine long after your vehicle is sitting in the junk heap. Resistors in your household appliances are worked a thousand times harder than this one is.

And that's why mine is installed as we speak. I'm happy with mine, though I do see the ECO light sometimes when the engine gets hot in stop and go traffic or after it's been stopped for a few minutes and started again. I'm not sure I want to use the other resistor, though. However, I just don't think it hurts to put a meter on it once a year or so and just double-check that it's still within specs.

John Clark

· #459 · Aug 4, 2015

Using which resistor?

John Clark

· #464 · Aug 8, 2015

Just did my yearly NC state inspection....I forgot to remove the VCMuzzlerII from the vehicle before I left. I remembered on the way but decided to just see what happens. It passed! Nobody even noticed it.

John Clark

· #469 · Aug 19, 2015

Sending a PM is probably the best way to get your order in.

John Clark

· #472 · Aug 23, 2015

You need to read the codes with a code reader to see what is turning on the MIL light. It may be related to the muzzler but it may not.

John Clark

· #493 · Sep 16, 2015

verbatim said:
Oh and about emissions testing, again because it doesn't run rich like you think, others have passed emissions testing with it installed. I would recommend taking it out for that but people have done it. It completes all the self diagnostics fine when you check with an OBD reader.

This is correct. I accidentally forgot to remove mine when I went for my NC inspection last month. It was no problem...nobody even noticed. I do have it zip tied nicely, though, under the engine cover.

John Clark

· #701 · Jan 18, 2016

parmm said:
I've searched and can't find it. What is the difference between VCMuzzler and VCMuzzler II? And did VCMuzzler II replace VCMuzzler?

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...tter-way-disable-post1347345.html#post1347345

John Clark

· #709 · Jan 24, 2016

I had mine checked in NC and had no issues with it. If you're concerned, just remove it (while it's cold and hasn't been driven, of course) and then take it in. I was going to do that and then forgot about it. It passed with no problem in NC.

John Clark

· #713 · Jan 25, 2016

The only detection would be visual but with the OEM look of the vcmuzzler you'd have to be very familiar with the particular vehicle to even notice it. I tied mine up quite nicely with a couple of zip ties so you can't even really see it under the engine cover.

John Clark

· #720 · Jan 27, 2016

I use the 82 ohm. In the summer time I do get VCM kicking in after I've been sitting in traffic for a bit or if the car is shut off for a bit and then started again (recall an engine gets warmer before it begins to cool after shutting it off.) However, it only kicks on for a minute or two and some driving down the road to get airflow through the radiator cools the engine down and VCM kicks off. Since I've never had any issue with my VCM in 140K miles I live with it that way rather than putting in the 120ohm resistor. I've reduced VCM usage by 90-95% in the summer time and 100% in the winter so I figure that's good enough.

John Clark

· #723 · Jan 27, 2016

Oggie50 said:
My transmission shifts fine when cold, But when at temperature and when leaving a stop light from 1st to 2nd gear is sounds like the trans is struggling or has drive train issues sort to like a bus when lugging the gears. Can i assume that the VCM/ECO mode is kicking in even if the light isn't on?

No. Highly doubtful that has anything to do with VCM. Sounds like a transmission problem.

John Clark

· #732 · Jan 31, 2016

huntersdl said:
verbatim - received the muzzler a few days ago. I used the blue resistor one since the base one it came with last time only worked when cool in the AM. It was in the 60s today and i warmed it up really good and took for a test drive. Went out on I 485 and not once did it cut on so i think it is all good now. Thank you so much for all the help. Went ahead and changed front rotors and pads today hoping to help with braking. Got slotted rotors and power stop pads. Replaced one sway bar too. As the infamous words of ice cube - today was a good day. Come spring will change the front motor mount yet again.

I'm also in Charlotte. I'll be interested to know how you fare this summer when things heat up. During the warm sticky weather I still get the occasional ECO light after sitting a traffic light for a minute or two. It's not enough to push me to the 120ohm resistor, though.

John Clark

· #738 · Feb 2, 2016

VPT said:
I might have asked before but here it goes again.

Which wire is best to install the resistor on? ....?

It shouldn't matter in a simple series circuit. The computer is just looking at the total resistance (or voltage coming back to the computer) on the circuit. Total resistance is the same regardless of which one it goes through first. If the sensor itself were somehow powered by the 5v it might matter.

John Clark

· #740 · Feb 2, 2016 (Edited)

No, it doesn't matter. It's a series circuit. Assuming the sensor is just a simple thermistor (variable resistor that changes resistance with temperature,) you have a fixed resister (82 or 120ohm) in series with a variable resistor (the sensor) and the gauge. The sensor does not need power to do it's job. It only needs the temp change. I don't know what the resistance range values are for the sensor itself but each resistor will create a voltage drop. The resulting voltage drop across the two resistors, measured at the temp gauge, will be the same regardless of which one is placed where. It's simple Ohm's law.

Of course, this is all controlled by the Power Supply Circuit/Controller Area Network Controller but it's just reading that simple voltage drop that changes based on the variation in the resistance of the sensor.

The computer only sees the final voltage coming back to it to tell it what the coolant temperature is. It doesn't matter which resistor it travels through first. It will see the same resistance change, just at a higher total range (lower return voltage) with the added fixed resistor.

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John Clark

· #743 · Feb 2, 2016

I don't know the circuit on the JRSC. I do know the circuit here. It's a simple series circuit an ohms law doesn't lie.

It make no difference where the resistor goes.

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