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@ Verbatim,

How did you verify that the VCM is in fact no longer operational once the resistor is installed into the circuit. I know mine is not operational due to no ECO lamp and the CEL with the corresponding code on the scanner.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
No problem. I wasn't sure so I asked in a PM but didn't get an answer.

In that case the answer to the previous question asked is that it is USD $35.00 plus shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
In my pilot it was simple. My pilot like others, experienced vibrations when VCM was active in cold weather. For the pilot they light seems to be tied directly to VCM. As soon as the light comes on you feel the vibrations. Now no light and no vibrations. To be clear, when your engine drops cylinders, the engine starts to vibrate and make noise. The Honda active engine mounts and active noise cancellation through your speakers just masks it so you can't feel it. On the pilot the front propeller shaft would vibrate so you could actually feel it.

Honda came out with TSB for pilots and Acura RDX to fix the problem and it's helped but not been totally eradicated. With the mod there is no more VCM for sure.
 

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For the pilot they light seems to be tied directly to VCM. As soon as the light comes on you feel the vibrations. Now no light and no vibrations.
Do you mean the green ECO light? Is this also true in the Ody then? I haven't noticed anything like that - maybe when I'm on the highway, there is a very slight resonance which I assume is the VCM kicking in.

I want this mod - and if its as easy as you say it is to install, then I want it even more. Especially if it will mean better long term engine health.

Does it stop the ECO light from coming on as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
On the pilot that's the way it works but It might not be true for all generation pilots. I've heard people say on other models and other gen pilots that the ECO light is independent of VCM but I don't know that first hand. It stops the ECO light for me. Thank god. Never understood why automakers insist on this distraction.

It really is that simple to install.
 

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In my pilot it was simple. My pilot like others, experienced vibrations when VCM was active in cold weather. For the pilot they light seems to be tied directly to VCM. As soon as the light comes on you feel the vibrations. Now no light and no vibrations. To be clear, when your engine drops cylinders, the engine starts to vibrate and make noise. The Honda active engine mounts and active noise cancellation through your speakers just masks it so you can't feel it. On the pilot the front propeller shaft would vibrate so you could actually feel it.

Honda came out with TSB for pilots and Acura RDX to fix the problem and it's helped but not been totally eradicated. With the mod there is no more VCM for sure.
OK, now this is being really anal, but here is what I take from that explanation:

On your Pilot, there are 2 indications (let's call them "symptoms") that the VCM is active: the ECO light and the vibrations. After the mod, both symptoms were eliminated. No ECO light, no vibrations. From a purely scientific perspective, all we know is that your resistor altered a signal to the computer, causing it to do something different which resulted in both symptoms being eliminated.

Now, I'm not saying that your mod didn't disable the VCM, but I don't know with 100% certainty that it did. All I know is that the 2 symptoms of VCM activation went away and that your milage changed by 1 MPG (which could be noise).

Is there any way of actually monitoring all three cylinders with and without the mod and showing beyond a shadow of a doubt that all three cylinders shut down without the mod and that all three cylinders never shut down, never changed their timing, never changed at all, with the mod?

In other words, the elimination of the symptoms makes us assume the disease has been cured, but we haven't really looked for the elimination of the actual disease itself. Cancer has been known to fool doctors into thinking it was eliminated because of the lack of symptoms, when it reality all it did was alter itself without really going away.
 

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Verbatim, what resistor ohm and watt rating did you settle on for your production piece? I have an 05, and am willing to add a resistor to the existing ect1 circuit wiring (well out if warranty here)...just curious what resistor to use.
 

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Everything I've read in your threads so far sounds like it's a smashing success. I think the real test is what happens when you go through stop and go traffic in mid August in Arizona or somewhere where the outside air temps can get to 110+ degrees. Will it affect drivability or cooling ability of the vehicle then? That's the scenario I'd like more feedback or comments on.

I'm just curious if that ECT1 reading does anything else besides signal VCM to activate at temp. I would think that reading would be used for something else besides VCM and whatever it affects may not be visible until ambient temps get really high. Any ideas?
 

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Hopefully the guy that's a Honda tech will chime in here soon. For me, the fact that this appears to be working is good enough reason for me to lay some a few bucks and try it out. I've got none of the vibration symptoms that have been an issue for some of you but even so, I know that it has had some effect on the engine already. When I changed out my plugs at 59k kms, the rear one closest to the drivers side had a tip that was much shorter and worn / oily than all the others. Rear bank plugs definitely looked a little 'wet' compared to fronts which were dry.

I suppose one way to check (but it would require time and some investment) would be to change the rear bank spark plugs and drive it with this mod installed. Then after a specified period of time, pull them and see if they look 'wet'. If they are 'dry' you could make a correlation that the mod appears to have had a positive effect on the plugs and that this *could be* because of the VCM being disabled.
 

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ASFAIK, the ECO light and VCM are not related. They are closely coupled as VCM would be on while in ECO mode mostly but they are distinct. To play a devil's advocate, the fact that ECO is not turning on is a tell tale giveaway that the resistor indeed is sending a not-warmed up voltage to the PCM. I don't know what is better, running with the PCM thinking the vehicle is not warmed up or running VCM. There are several long term carbon related issues with running rich which is what the vehicle runs when not warmed up.

If given a choice, I would disable the VCM with the CEL light ON way as that should only impact the VCM. Yes. The ECO light does not come on in that case as well but that is because of the CEL being on. At least we know for a fact the car won't be running rich in that scenario.

Not looking to argue here but putting my view point out there as well so that some folks can make an educated decision.


Now. That said, here is what I do to get around the downsides of VCM. Every trip, when the road is clear and I am not in a known speed zone, I take the Ody above 82 MPH for any where from 5 minutes to 20 or 30 minutes if I can keep it at that speed. Since the VCM cuts out at around 80-82 MPH along with the ECO mode, all cylinders are firing. Logic (or better word would be hope on my part) is that what ever carbon deposits have built up will get burnt off with the vehicle running with all cylinders firing for 15+ minutes. That does not get rid of the annoying shakes or what ever they're called when the VCM engages/disengages if you dip below the 80 MPH which is where we are most of the time on our long trips. Have just learnt to live with the behavior on our side for the most part.

** Edit **
Here is the original thread on Piloteers.org.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/82-2012-2015-pilot/70873-vcm-disable-new-better-way.html

OP's Pilot is a 2012 model. Which has the VCM2 system. We in the 3rd gen have both VCM (2005 - 2007) and VCM2 (2008 - 2010) depending on the model year. So, more testing would be needed for the older VCM system. :)
 

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I haven't been able to detect anything like what you describe. VCM seems to activate instantaneously when the Engine Coolant Temperature as reported by ECT1 reaches 167 degrees. Once it is active, it doesn't stop activating (under the appropriate conditions of course) until the temperature drops back down to about 162-163 degrees. I'm not saying there isn't some sort of time lapse, I just haven't been able to detect one and I'm not sure what the purpose of a time delay would be in the algorithm if all other conditions are properly met.
I'm remembering back to the late 80's, specifically GM's midsize passenger cars. Got pretty decent highway mileage comparatively speaking. Because GM put a 'lean highway' mode in the programming. Requirements were something along the lines of closed loop, above 50MPH, warm engine, steady throttle, and 15 seconds of steady-ish manifold pressure. O2 would swing fairly lean, then ease back to stoich, swing lean, ease back to stoich...as long as all those conditions were met for 15-ish seconds. The only purpose I can think of is to weed out ratty data.
BTW - GM's fix for this 'lean highway' mode after the EPA found out about it? One byte changed, speed, only way to get it was to get above 255 kmh (157MPH).
I had an '89 Grand Prix and I could watch the O2 volts drop out and come back when those conditions were met.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OK, now this is being really anal, but here is what I take from that explanation:

On your Pilot, there are 2 indications (let's call them "symptoms") that the VCM is active: the ECO light and the vibrations. After the mod, both symptoms were eliminated. No ECO light, no vibrations. From a purely scientific perspective, all we know is that your resistor altered a signal to the computer, causing it to do something different which resulted in both symptoms being eliminated.

Now, I'm not saying that your mod didn't disable the VCM, but I don't know with 100% certainty that it did. All I know is that the 2 symptoms of VCM activation went away and that your milage changed by 1 MPG (which could be noise).

Is there any way of actually monitoring all three cylinders with and without the mod and showing beyond a shadow of a doubt that all three cylinders shut down without the mod and that all three cylinders never shut down, never changed their timing, never changed at all, with the mod?

In other words, the elimination of the symptoms makes us assume the disease has been cured, but we haven't really looked for the elimination of the actual disease itself. Cancer has been known to fool doctors into thinking it was eliminated because of the lack of symptoms, when it reality all it did was alter itself without really going away.
There may be doubt in your mind but there's no doubt in mine. Anyone that has experienced VCM vibrations knows exactly what it is and why it happens. The engine goes unbalanced when it drops cylinders. That's why they use the active engine mounts and noise cancellation. I drove it half the winter with VCM vibrations and EVERY time the vibrations started, it coincided exactly with the ECO light. The ECO light was never on without there being vibrations. Honda acknowledged the vibrations were due to VCM it in their TSB as well as Acura's TSB.

I understand your concerns. If you aren't having vibrations and still want to disable VCM (like many do), you want to know for sure that it's' not activating. A simple way would be to put a voltmeter on the signal input to the VCM solenoid and somehow wire it into the cabin for a test drive. I'm not going to because I'm convinced.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Verbatim, what resistor ohm and watt rating did you settle on for your production piece? I have an 05, and am willing to add a resistor to the existing ect1 circuit wiring (well out if warranty here)...just curious what resistor to use.
82 Ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Everything I've read in your threads so far sounds like it's a smashing success. I think the real test is what happens when you go through stop and go traffic in mid August in Arizona or somewhere where the outside air temps can get to 110+ degrees. Will it affect drivability or cooling ability of the vehicle then? That's the scenario I'd like more feedback or comments on.

I'm just curious if that ECT1 reading does anything else besides signal VCM to activate at temp. I would think that reading would be used for something else besides VCM and whatever it affects may not be visible until ambient temps get really high. Any ideas?
I do wish I had more data to know for sure what temp the engine can get to when idling in traffic in Death Valley. I'm hoping the cooling system is efficient enough not to let it go too high above normal.

It's used to monitor engine temperature, obviously to give you a dash gauge and warnings if it overheats. I've seen no evidence of any other system being affected. You could argue that it affects A/F ratio but I believe any effect would be small if there's one at all. the ECU will use IAT as it's primary determiner as far as temperature goes for the a/f ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hopefully the guy that's a Honda tech will chime in here soon. For me, the fact that this appears to be working is good enough reason for me to lay some a few bucks and try it out. I've got none of the vibration symptoms that have been an issue for some of you but even so, I know that it has had some effect on the engine already. When I changed out my plugs at 59k kms, the rear one closest to the drivers side had a tip that was much shorter and worn / oily than all the others. Rear bank plugs definitely looked a little 'wet' compared to fronts which were dry.

I suppose one way to check (but it would require time and some investment) would be to change the rear bank spark plugs and drive it with this mod installed. Then after a specified period of time, pull them and see if they look 'wet'. If they are 'dry' you could make a correlation that the mod appears to have had a positive effect on the plugs and that this *could be* because of the VCM being disabled.
A honda tech bought one from me already. :)

i had thought about that already with the plugs. Unfortunately, I didn't think to do it before I installed it for a while, so I've decided to wait another month or so to give it some run time anyway, pull the plugs, inspect, replace all and check to see what they look like again later.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ASFAIK, the ECO light and VCM are not related. They are closely coupled as VCM would be on while in ECO mode mostly but they are distinct. To play a devil's advocate, the fact that ECO is not turning on is a tell tale giveaway that the resistor indeed is sending a not-warmed up voltage to the PCM. I don't know what is better, running with the PCM thinking the vehicle is not warmed up or running VCM. There are several long term carbon related issues with running rich which is what the vehicle runs when not warmed up.
I don't believe the ECU will demand a rich situation for very long past startup. At just 15 degrees below normal operating temp, I highly doubt that it would be dumping fuel into the cylinders. I've seen no excessive fuel consumption either, just what you would expect without VCM.


If given a choice, I would disable the VCM with the CEL light ON way as that should only impact the VCM. Yes. The ECO light does not come on in that case as well but that is because of the CEL being on. At least we know for a fact the car won't be running rich in that scenario.
On the pilot, disabling the VCM with CEL on also disables VTM-4 as well. Others report it also disables VSA. One major drawback of this that most seem to forget is that with the CEL on constantly, you have no clue if something else goes wrong because the CEL is already on... or you may miss it. you can check regularly with an OBD tool, but you might be too late if it's serious.

OP's Pilot is a 2012 model. Which has the VCM2 system. We in the 3rd gen have both VCM (2005 - 2007) and VCM2 (2008 - 2010) depending on the model year. So, more testing would be needed for the older VCM system. :)
I would not offer what I have for the older generation for two reasons. 1. the connector is different and I'd have to order some in. 2. It hasn't been tested like you say. I believe I said that in another post?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Again just curious - how did you arrive at this value? Was it trial and error? I'm just wondering what the range of resistors was because it would be interesting to see your research in terms of how you got there. And when can I buy one? :D
read post #16.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Again just curious - how did you arrive at this value? Was it trial and error? I'm just wondering what the range of resistors was because it would be interesting to see your research in terms of how you got there. And when can I buy one? :D
Oh, and as far as when you can buy one goes, they're on sale now, but I'm not allowed to post a classified here yet, and presumably nothing about selling on regular threads. I think it's ok to say you can just PM me though.
 
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