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Had my Muzzler on for a couple of weeks now 2006 EXL 179000. had to use the red resistor. It not that i was having any trouble but simply that i liked the idea of not running half an engine with no real benefit. Driving as normal and it looks like 25-28 more miles out of 18 gallon. so MPG is improved not a lot but at about 2300 a month solo driving mostly highway its good. Yup feels smoother and quieter even =) Lets see if it will burn less oil!
Thanks Mr V for speedy shipment and a well made product
 

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I installed my VCMuzzler a couple weeks ago now on our 2006 with 153k on it. I was on the fence about putting it on, but boy I sure am glad I did :nod::nod::nod: So far so good. And my CEL has not come on for random misfire. That was coming and going about every two days.

Pre muzzler, temps were running 183-186 driving, and as high as 195 to 200 idling.

Started with the blue and temps ran 166-168 driving and 175+ idling, so was getting the eco and VCM kicking in all the time.

Switched to the red and temps are running 159.8 to 161 while driving. When idling they will go up to 163-165 but come back down, so that seems to be an ok spot.

For the first time the other night, I wasn't paying attention to the temp on my Ultraguage, I had stopped for gas and was sitting in the car with it running, it went to leave and start driving and looked down and the eco light kicked on. I glanced over and the temps had reached 175 while sitting there with the ac on. After driving they came back down to normal again, so its all good.

Loving driving the van. I am planing on doing the plugs again, even though they were done at 100k (or at least look at the rears) and start changing out the fluids.

Anyways, wanted to share my experience too. Its been all city, with some short highway driving, but we will be taking a longer trip soon, so I am excited to see how it does!
 

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I've gotten a VCMuzzler II, and from reading the FAQ's I'm thinking I'm going to be one of the ones that needs the Orange reisitor. How do I go about getting one? With the blue (80) in, I'm great until temps get up into the mid 60's outsite, then the VCM starts kicking in all the time. So I swapped out to the red (120) and now I get the CEL because mornings still get down into the 40's. Hoping the 100 will be the sweet spot for me.
I am also ordering the orange resistor. The blue resistor works fine until a few days ago when the temperature is above 20 C (in Halifax, NS). I have put the red resistor on for a few days but I think I will get a CEL light when the temperature drops (fingers crossed). I just order the orange resistor as a backup.
 

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I have to say, i love my vcmuzzler 2. I drive....a lot.... its my job. Im very in tune with my vehicles, i know their shakes, noises and characteristics.

i recently bought a 2009 odyssey touring with 124k miles and it always felt a bit...screwy when driving it. After a TON of research I came across the vcmuzzler, and installed it yesterday.

Holy. Crap. What a difference.

ive driven it some 2000 miles without the muzzler and that weird feeling I was getting was the vibration from the VCM. Thank you for this.

Right now im looking at a 1 or 2 mpg loss, but this was the first thing ive done besides a K&N air filter so im far from finished mucking about with this car.
 

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After switching to the red resistor, I got a pending P0128 code but there is no CEL light yet. I already ordered the orange resistor and hopefully, it will work for my Odyssey 2016.
 

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Anybody know at what temp you get the CEL?

I went from the 84ohm resistor to the 100ohm resistor for the same reason as most of you. From what I seen my VCM kicks in when temps reach around 168-170. For now with the 100ohm resistor it stays at an average 163-165 and because its so close to the 168-170 rage i've seen it kick in very rarely when idling for long period of time for a few seconds.

All said I think disabling the VCM is a must for anyone.
 

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have been running the blue for over a year with no problems. I have seen VCM kick in for a few seconds one or two times after the car has idled for a while but clears quickly as soon as you start moving even in stop and go. Only times VCM is prevalent is when the temp is over 90 with city driving. Takes about 1 mile over 45 mph to cool back down. Highway is fine even around 100 degrees. Tried the red last summer when temps were over 95 for a while but kept getting p0128 so I stuck with blue. However, last week, p0128 showed up out of the blue.. temps were low 80's.. so I pulled it and the code would not clear. Ended up pulling the negative battery cable for 20 minutes. Code gone and car ran as it should with the dreaded vcm kicking on :) So this morning after sitting 12 hours i put the blue back on and started it, no codes.. so we will see what a day of driving does. Hopefully it was a one time glitch.
 

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have been running the blue for over a year with no problems. I have seen VCM kick in for a few seconds one or two times after the car has idled for a while but clears quickly as soon as you start moving even in stop and go. Only times VCM is prevalent is when the temp is over 90 with city driving. Takes about 1 mile over 45 mph to cool back down. Highway is fine even around 100 degrees. Tried the red last summer when temps were over 95 for a while but kept getting p0128 so I stuck with blue. However, last week, p0128 showed up out of the blue.. temps were low 80's.. so I pulled it and the code would not clear. Ended up pulling the negative battery cable for 20 minutes. Code gone and car ran as it should with the dreaded vcm kicking on :) So this morning after sitting 12 hours i put the blue back on and started it, no codes.. so we will see what a day of driving does. Hopefully it was a one time glitch.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/304890-you-have-muzzler-you-got-p0128-now-what.html#post1880066
 

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The 82 Ohm blue resistor was allowing too much eco mode so I went to the red 120 ohm, but the temp was rising to 167° (eco comes on) when hustling in traffic and prolonged idling; however the ScanGauge cruse temp is around a suitable 150°-152° with the 120 ohm. I got a 180 ohm resistor from Verbatim that I will install with the advent of our 100°+ temps, in hope that it will keep the eco from activating, without throwing a code.





I got a
 

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I will check my "LP" gauge to see if it is staying open. I remember it cycling normally between open and closed last time I looked. I think that the ECU considers data from sensors other than engine coolant temperature (ECT) when deciding to open or close the loop. I have no DTC's.
 

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It won't stay in open loop but it will definitely set a code and will probably add extra fuel. I wouldn't go any higher than the 120 ohm. If you read the info from Verbatim he says that the stop and go traffic and prolonged idle followed by an ECO light for a minute or so is normal. You don't need a 180 ohm resistor. You'll pop a P0128 code, guaranteed.
 

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Agree with John. The purpose is to reduce the ECO to almost 0, but it won't completely disable it in stop and go traffic in hot weather.

Living in Houston, TX, when stuck in traffic, ECO will come on for a very brief moment, but it goes away once you start moving.

No need to go any higher than 120ohms, which I would think cause more harm with error code.

Besides, you want to install it and just forget it that you have it there...rather than go out there change the resistors out every 6 months when season changes.

That's just me.
 

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Drove our 06 on a 600 mile trip yesterday. I have the red resistor on mine. Temps on the highway ran a steady 159.8 and occasional 161. But mostly stayed at 159.8. Got 24.7 mpg from a full tank of gas. 444 miles. That doesn't seem too bad to me considering we were packed full, temps where 85 to 90 degrees and we had a little bit of a wind batting us around. I am ok with that.

The trip was delightful. Not one engagement of the VCM except for when we pulled off for gas and food and where in traffic. That stop and go allowed the temps to rise to 167 to 170 range and engage the eco, but it went away of course once be were able to get out of the traffic.
 

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Oops, I have the white 150 Ω resistor installed, not the red 120 Ω. Anyway, while steady state cruising today at 65 mph with indicated engine coolant temperature at 150°F, on cruise control, ScanGauge showed that the loop was *CLOSED*, and the loop remained closed, even when accelerating. The loop flickered open only briefly when slowing down on closed throttle and when coming to a stop. Also, the loop remained closed when cruising on city streets at 35 MPH. I can only conclude that that PCM is giving weight to the data received from the myriad of other sensors looping back to the PCM, where it is then feed back to the O2 sensors in order to optimize the fuel mixture. My city gas mileage is OK at 17 to 19 mpg depending on conditions.
 

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I forgot to mention, ScanGauge says : "No Codes, Ready."
 

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For some reason the system will not allow me to edit posts, so my above statement about the O2 sensors should be corrected to read: The signals from the O2 sensors are then fed back to the PCM in order that it can make adjustments to the fuel mixture.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,298
I'm surprised you're down at 150°F at steady state and you're not getting a P0128 code. Does your temp creep up that much when idling that you're above 167°F? Sorry, I haven't read all the old posts.
 

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Oops, I have the white 150 Ω resistor installed, not the red 120 Ω. Anyway, while steady state cruising today at 65 mph with indicated engine coolant temperature at 150°F, on cruise control, ScanGauge showed that the loop was *CLOSED*, and the loop remained closed, even when accelerating. The loop flickered open only briefly when slowing down on closed throttle and when coming to a stop. Also, the loop remained closed when cruising on city streets at 35 MPH. I can only conclude that that PCM is giving weight to the data received from the myriad of other sensors looping back to the PCM, where it is then feed back to the O2 sensors in order to optimize the fuel mixture. My city gas mileage is OK at 17 to 19 mpg depending on conditions.
Yeah, that's pretty low. Have you checked your cooling fans for proper operation? With the AC on make sure BOTH cooling fans are running on high speed. It's not uncommon for the radiator fan fuse to blow and cause the radiator fan to run normally on low speed but turn off when high speed is commanded. Check those fans.
 
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