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I'm surprised you're down at 150°F at steady state and you're not getting a P0128 code. Does your temp creep up that much when idling that you're above 167°F? Sorry, I haven't read all the old posts.
With the red/120 ohm temp would creep up to 170-175°F when idling in stop and go traffic. With the white/150 ohm, temp creeps (rarely) up to 165-168°F.

So -- I finally got around to installing my UltraGauge MX 1.3. The Lambda coefficient values of both front and rear oxygen sensors are spot on, cycling between 1.00X and 0.99X. Both catalytic converter temperatures are running at 1,300 to 1,500°F. Temperatures of both engine coolant (150-152°F) and automatic transmission fluid agree with ScanGauge values. Scanning with both units shows no codes, all while using white 150Ω resistor.
 

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Well as long its not in open loop thats fine but your temp shouldn't stay at 150. The ECU will add more fuel, you will notice it after a few tanks of gasoline.
Respectfully, please state the facts upon which you rely for your conclusion that the ECU will add more fuel.
 

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Respectfully, please state the facts upon which you rely for your conclusion that the ECU will add more fuel.
My experience?

I was getting horrible gas mileage, 275 miles out of a tank when I usually get 320 miles out of a tank. John told me to check my short and long term fuel and they were reading high and he also noticed my coolant temp below 159. He suggested me to change the thermostat and install the blue resistor. (I had the red resister installed in the beginning) Coolant temps are now reading over 159 and mileage is now back to normal. Go read my "LAF sensors" thread, I didn't remove any of the videos I posted because someone in the future might have the same problem as I did.

Here is the thread: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/284977-laf-sensors.html
 

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My experience?

I was getting horrible gas mileage, 275 miles out of a tank when I usually get 320 miles out of a tank. John told me to check my short and long term fuel and they were reading high and he also noticed my coolant temp below 159. He suggested me to change the thermostat and install the blue resistor. (I had the red resister installed in the beginning) Coolant temps are now reading over 159 and mileage is now back to normal. Go read my "LAF sensors" thread, I didn't remove any of the videos I posted because someone in the future might have the same problem as I did.

Here is the thread: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52 Thanks. I did not have the chance to monitor my fuel trim, but will do so tomorrow. Assuming all other sensors are operating normally, I wonder what is the threshold warm coolant temperature value that satisfies the PCM to add/subtract zero % fuel?
 

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I drove around for about 5 hours yesterday, on and off the interstate, running errands, etc., with the white/150. The Loop was always closed, except on closed throttle. ECT was 150-152 at cruse and rose to 159 when waiting on parking lot for 10 minutes with both radiator and condenser fans roaring away at high speed. O2 sensor voltage was mostly greater than 0.5, settling around +0.6 to +0.7 volts, signaling a rich mixture. Short term fuel trim (STFT) leaned out with a negative percent, around -5% to -7%. The UltraGauge was a beotch to mount where I could conveniently see it, so I will mount it in a better location and will be able to get some more concise figures. Although I have no DCT’s, it looks like the PCU is perceiving a cold engine and enriching the fuel mixture accordingly. I will go back to my red/120 resistor and see what happens and if I can get closer to zero % fuel trim and 0.5 volts O2 sensor. My gas mileage has remained good at around 18 mpg in city driving.

Verbatim, I see that the standard resistor values step directly from 120 to 150 ohms. Have you considered connectors with intermediate values of 130 and 140 ohms? Maybe I could add another resistor in series in order to achieve these values and in order to get to the sweet spot of around 160 degrees, and limit a temp rise to the VCM threshold of 168 degrees.
 

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Still unable to edit. Above should read: "PCM is perceiving a cold engine and leaning the fuel mixture accordingly by subtracting fuel and optimizing the mixture."
 

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My experience?

I was getting horrible gas mileage, 275 miles out of a tank when I usually get 320 miles out of a tank. John told me to check my short and long term fuel and they were reading high and he also noticed my coolant temp below 159. He suggested me to change the thermostat and install the blue resistor. (I had the red resister installed in the beginning) Coolant temps are now reading over 159 and mileage is now back to normal. Go read my "LAF sensors" thread, I didn't remove any of the videos I posted because someone in the future might have the same problem as I did.

Here is the thread: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52[/QUOTE] So you never said which Odyssey had the problem. Was it the 2010 or the 2017? Did you replace both the resistor and the thermostat, or just one of these?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,308
Just to let everyone know, I'm currently on vacation (wedding and honeymoon, actually) and as such, I won't be able to respond much to PM's. There's no automated reply option on PM's, unfortunately, so most people won't know I'm gone. If you happen to see anyone posting that I'm not responding, you can perhaps let them know why. Thanks.
 

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Just to let everyone know, I'm currently on vacation (wedding and honeymoon, actually) and as such, I won't be able to respond much to PM's. There's no automated reply option on PM's, unfortunately, so most people won't know I'm gone. If you happen to see anyone posting that I'm not responding, you can perhaps let them know why. Thanks.
Congratulations! All the best! :coolio:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,310
This post is to inform everyone that the VCMuzzler II now ships with all of the optional resistors included. Due to pressure from other copycat devices, I've streamlined the manufacturing of the resistors and can now make them all available with the original purchase of the device, so no optional resistors will need to be purchased later. Now, with all of the resistors available, you will have the ability to adjust for any vehicle variances or climate conditions.

I purposely did not want to go to a potentiometer or selector type device to keep it all factory OEM looking and sealed. Changing resistors in the VCMuzzler is no more difficult than changing a selector switch. The advantage with the VCMuzzler, is that there are no moving parts, only reliable components that are not affected by the heat or vibration in the engine compartment. Also there is no gooped on RTV sealant, only OEM factory sealed type components.

I just wanted to let everyone know about this. I'll also be giving a deal on spare resistors to everyone that wishes to buy them. You will now receive all three former optional resistors for the price of one if you need to order any of them. Thank you to everyone who has supported me and my product to this point.
 

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Cool! If I ever get another Honda I'll definitely consider buying another vcmuzzler. I've had one in my '05 odyssey and it has worked great. Makes for a much better driving experience.
 

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This post is to inform everyone that the VCMuzzler II now ships with all of the optional resistors included. Due to pressure from other copycat devices, I've streamlined the manufacturing of the resistors and can now make them all available with the original purchase of the device, so no optional resistors will need to be purchased later. Now, with all of the resistors available, you will have the ability to adjust for any vehicle variances or climate conditions.

I purposely did not want to go to a potentiometer or selector type device to keep it all factory OEM looking and sealed. Changing resistors in the VCMuzzler is no more difficult than changing a selector switch. The advantage with the VCMuzzler, is that there are no moving parts, only reliable components that are not affected by the heat or vibration in the engine compartment. Also there is no gooped on RTV sealant, only OEM factory sealed type components.

I just wanted to let everyone know about this. I'll also be giving a deal on spare resistors to everyone that wishes to buy them. You will now receive all three former optional resistors for the price of one if you need to order any of them. Thank you to everyone who has supported me and my product to this point.
Verbatim,

I just bought a used 2010 Honda Odyssey Touring. I instantly didn't like how the VCM felt while driving and am interested in your product. How can I go about getting one, and do you have installation video's? Sorry if this has been posted before.

Thanks, Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #1,315
Verbatim,

I just bought a used 2010 Honda Odyssey Touring. I instantly didn't like how the VCM felt while driving and am interested in your product. How can I go about getting one, and do you have installation video's? Sorry if this has been posted before.

Thanks, Ryan
PM sent.
 

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This may be a dumb question, but does a 2008 EX need one of these? I don't see an ECO light ever. Here's a pic of the lights when I first turn on the key. The list I saw seemed to include all 2008's but since I don't have the ECO light I'm not sure.
View attachment 120178
 

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This may be a dumb question, but does a 2008 EX need one of these? I don't see an ECO light ever. Here's a pic of the lights when I first turn on the key. The list I saw seemed to include all 2008's but since I don't have the ECO light I'm not sure.
View attachment 120178
Please don't cross post. I answered you in your first post in the other thread.
 

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I find it interesting that so many claim that disabling VCM caused no decrease in fuel economy, based purely on faith and anecdotal observation. So we are to believe Honda included this system which had no benefit whatsoever other than reliability risk, for what? A practical joke? And the EPAs higher mileage figures were... lies?
 

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... based purely on faith and anecdotal observation....
I think you just offended most people in this thread. Do you use only Honda approved methodology to track your fuel economy?
Did they supply you with a smart phone app? Or Honda made gasoline?

So we are to believe Honda included this system which had no benefit whatsoever other than reliability risk, for what? A practical joke? And the EPAs higher mileage figures were... lies?
You got one thing right EPA, thats about sums it up.
Please read posts about VCM, the lawsuit, the repairs, try to process the "Honda official explanation" of the issue.
Then come back here and "enlighten" us with your knowledge.
 
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