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To keep this on topic, has anyone ever just left their VCM muzzle device on when having a smog check?
If by smog check you mean emissions testing, I have, and its perfectly fine. No emission station will ever know anything, unless you have an illuminated or pending check engine light.
In CT emissions testing is done via obd2 connector for all cars newer than 1995, but even if they had to use old fashion tail wand, your car is perfectly emissions compliant in every regard using muzzler.
 

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That being said, I don't think we are allowed, at least in the US, to modify the engine with something like the Muzzler. What I may do is remove the 'L' from EX-L, and then I might, just might pass muster!
Better watch out for the Muzzler police! ;)
 

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To keep this on topic, has anyone ever just left their VCM muzzle device on when having a smog check?
By the way, as a California resident I cannot buy the VCMuzzlerII even though that is where they are made. When I do finally move on from my 2nd gen van I will have one sent to my friend in AZ.
Do you mean the VCMTUNER II? Maybe by then he will have gotten CARB approval and will sell it in CA by then. His original VCMTUNER with a potentiometer has a CARB version.

I haven't had an emission test yet since installing the VCMTUNER II, but will not do anything when I do. In Illinois now they simply plug into the OBDII to ensure there are no codes and it is in a ready state - they don't even open the hood.
 

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I just had my 2002 done here in CA. They plug in the OBDII and check under the hood and the open the fuel filler door and check the cap. I think the connection is left in place while the start and rev the engine. Unless one was using a really homemade muzzler, I doubt it would even catch a techs eye.
We have had folks here report that the Honda dealer tech gave them a thumbs up about having one.

And, sorry to Maxud for all of us recommending a competing product on his thread. He was the pioneer in this tech.
 

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And, sorry to Maxud for all of us recommending a competing product on his thread. He was the pioneer in this tech.
lol, case of mistaken identity. Verbatim made the original Muzzler and started this thread. I made a different muzzler with a variable resistor.
Tuner is the guy who dropped in here and decided to patent other people's work.
 
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I'm new to the VCM issue, and slightly confused. I messaged verbatim based on the advice of past posts, because as a Canadian I cannot buy the unit from ebay (doesn't ship to Canada, even though I think he's Canadian?). But I also found the VCMtumer.com website, offering similar. Is this the same guy? If not, what are the differences?
 

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Not the same guy. Both are good guys to buy from. I like both of them. The VCMTunerII is a better unit that disables VCM 100% of the time. Both will do the job, though.
 

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Not the same guy. Both are good guys to buy from. I like both of them. The VCMTunerII is a better unit that disables VCM 100% of the time. Both will do the job, though.
So the main difference is that one disables all the time, and one not quite as much?
 

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So the main difference is that one disables all the time, and one not quite as much?
 
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So the main difference is that one disables all the time, and one not quite as much?
The VCMTUNER II has active logic so it will always provide a resistance value to the ECM high enough to disable VCM as long as the coolant temperature is within a normal range. In overheating conditions it will pass the actual ECT1 sensor resistance on to the ECM so you will know right away. It also has an accelerometer to automatically disable itself if the vehicle is stopped for a few minutes and is at operating temperature required for some service procedures such as idle relearns.

Other products are passive and add resistance to the ECT1 circuit to trick the ECM to thinking the temperature is lower than it actually is to prevent cylinders from activating. There are times though where the resistance might not be quite enough (stop and go traffic on a hot summer day) to trick it and VCM comes on. Sometimes people need to swap resistors or turn knobs to change resistance if the ECO light starts coming on frequently.
 

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My link above is to a post I made just in the last day or two about the differences. This question gets asked nearly every day.
 
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So when are you going to post it?
Can you post this solution. My 2014 Ody is miserable to drive, but I’ll get hosed on a trade. My wife doesn’t even feel it. Other mechanic shops so but the Honda dealership says they don’t feel anything but did enough in the beginning to install a replacement transmission (thankfully covered under extended warranty). They aren’t doing ride alongs right now due to Covid so I can’t be there to pinpoint it for them. On the edge of my seat. I’m thinking of doing the vcm muzzler but want to understand all options. Thanks!
 

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So...... The options are u do it or don't do it .you will save money and a headache if I do it . There is no better solution right now to disable vcm other than unplugging and getting a check engine light .
 

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There are several versions of muzzling devices, they all do the same thing in different ways.
They plug into the coolant sensor and then into the connector that was plugged into that sensor. They all fool the engine management system into thinking the van is not quite warmed up enough allow the shutting down of cylinders.
The earliest ones just had a simple resister and would word most of the time.
Then one was made with swappable resisters that you could change as the weather did.
Then one with a dial that allowed the same changes easier.
Then ones that had a logic board that did all the variables for you. Those both require a wire to be run to the battery.
They range from about $50. To about $120. Depending.
To buy maxud's version with a dial, he has a thread down in the buy, sell, trade forum.
Verbatim's version can be bought by sending him a private message.
The two with logic boards are from:
S-VCM (made in Canada and good for those folks because of import duties and also Californians because the next one is not available to them, even though that is where they are made.
VCMTunnerII Advanced is the other logic board one. A current favorite because it will shut itself off if the engine overheats (very rare in a Honda) and show the actual temp on the dash. It also shuts itself off when idling for a while, this helps mechanics do procedures.

Both of the last two are easily found by Googling.
 

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Thank you. And this should remedy the vibration issue?
It should be done anyway as it solves so many future issues. You do not disclose how many miles are on your van, or how many miles are on the replaced transmission. But no matter what, Honda automatics require regular fluid changes. Do both.
 

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Thank you. And this should remedy the vibration issue?
It his highly recommended to disable VCM as it prevents issues with rings, plug fouling, oil consumption, and premature failure of active engine mounts. The van also drives smoother running on 6 cylinders all the time compared to switching between 6 and 3 or 4 cylinders. Whether this solves your vibration issue it's hard to say - there are obviously many things that can cause vibrations. The benefits of disabling VCM are great so even if it doesn't solve your issue, I'd still do it.

There are many devices available to disable VCM which are much better than unplugging stuff and living with a CEL. Please start reading backward from this point in the thread or search on the forum for other threads. There are posts from myself and @John Clark on this page (page 73) and page 72 talking about the different types of products.
 

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Buy
It should be done anyway as it solves so many future issues. You do not disclose how many miles are on your van, or how many miles are on the replaced transmission. But no matter what, Honda automatics require regular fluid changes. Do both.
Buy the unit with a dialed-in variable setting. Max is one seller
 
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