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Discussion Starter #1,462
Nothing like hijacking my thread to hock all the copycat products people created off my idea. :rolleyes:
 

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Nothing like hijacking my thread to hock all the copycat products people created off my idea. :rolleyes:
I agree. Posted deleted. Sorry, I overlooked that this was your original thread.
 

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I am looking to purchase a muzzler for my 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL. Is this Verbatim? I don't want to purchase another brand. Thank you for your time and consideration.
 

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Same here. Original VCMuzzler with the 82 ohm resister. Never had to touch it. VCM disabled 100% of the time - even on hot 90+F days.
 

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Same here. Original VCMuzzler with the 82 ohm resister. Never had to touch it. VCM disabled 100% of the time - even on hot 90+F days.
Where do you live? What is the ambient temperature range?

I ran 100Ω in my 2006 EX-L for 7 years. Never saw ECO unless I was towing heavy on the hottest days and then it was only right after climbing a hill. Temps where I live range from <0 to >100°F.

In my 17 EX-L I started with 100Ω but I got a CEL for low coolant temp (P0128) during summertime temps in the 80's. Swapped in the 82Ω and got a CEL once the temps dropped into the low 50's. I have just installed the 68Ω but haven't driven it yet. Temps are in the 30's today so this will be a good test. Hopefully no CEL or ECO. I'll be going out in a few hours so I should know soon enough.

We'll also have to see what happens in the spring. I may be swapping resistors based on ambient temps.
 

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Where do you live? What is the ambient temperature range?

I ran 100Ω in my 2006 EX-L for 7 years. Never saw ECO unless I was towing heavy on the hottest days and then it was only right after climbing a hill. Temps where I live range from <0 to >100°F.

In my 17 EX-L I started with 100Ω but I got a CEL for low coolant temp (P0128) during summertime temps in the 80's. Swapped in the 82Ω and got a CEL once the temps dropped into the low 50's. I have just installed the 68Ω but haven't driven it yet. Temps are in the 30's today so this will be a good test. Hopefully no CEL or ECO. I'll be going out in a few hours so I should know soon enough.

We'll also have to see what happens in the spring. I may be swapping resistors based on ambient temps.
I'm in Cleveland, Ohio.
 

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I'm in Cleveland, Ohio.
On average, my area is 5 - 6° colder than yours (Lake Ontario vs Lake Erie) but I don't think that's enough to account for the need to use a different resistor.

I haven't taken the 68Ω out for a ride yet, but I'm still surprised that my 06 ran with 100Ω all year for 7 years straight and my 17 threw a P1028 at 80°/100Ω and then again at 55°/82Ω.

Any lake effect snow yet? ;)
 

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On average, my area is 5 - 6° colder than yours (Lake Ontario vs Lake Erie) but I don't think that's enough to account for the need to use a different resistor.

I haven't taken the 68Ω out for a ride yet, but I'm still surprised that my 06 ran with 100Ω all year for 7 years straight and my 17 threw a P1028 at 80°/100Ω and then again at 55°/82Ω.

Any lake effect snow yet? ;)
DD, for one, I would check out the resistor, it could be out of spec.
The other thing I found is that a lot has to do with a specific car. Cooling performance is not identical between all the vans.
You are relying on thermostat and ECTS1/ECTS2. I have posted before on P0128 and muzzler.
At least in my case replacing both ECTS1 sensor and thermostat fixed the recurring issue with p0128.
Here is a good image to describe what happens. On a typical car, the margin of adjustment we perform with muzzler falls within variance and computer does
not detect it as a fault. On some cars, you could be already running within margins of error, so putting muzzler on, pushes you over the limit and sets the p0128.
You should be looking at live data at ECTS1 to see what it is reporting with and without muzzler to get better idea, though, it would be helpful to the compare the
values to an identical van sitting next to yours in the same environment.

158645
 

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DD, for one, I would check out the resistor, it could be out of spec.
The other thing I found is that a lot has to do with a specific car. Cooling performance is not identical between all the vans.
You are relying on thermostat and ECTS1/ECTS2. I have posted before on P0128 and muzzler.
At least in my case replacing both ECTS1 sensor and thermostat fixed the recurring issue with p0128.
Here is a good image to describe what happens. On a typical car, the margin of adjustment we perform with muzzler falls within variance and computer does
not detect it as a fault. On some cars, you could be already running within margins of error, so putting muzzler on, pushes you over the limit and sets the p0128.
You should be looking at live data at ECTS1 to see what it is reporting with and without muzzler to get better idea, though, it would be helpful to the compare the
values to an identical van sitting next to yours in the same environment.

View attachment 158645
I did check all the resistors that came with my current muzzler and they are within spec. I don't recall if I ever checked your 100Ω resistor for my 06 and I've sold the van so I can't check it now. Knowing me, I'd have to say that I checked it. Whatever it measured, it worked fine for 7 years or however long it's been since you made it.

I do have some recent live logs without the muzzler that I saved after the 82Ω threw a P0128 at 55°F-ish temperatures. I'd be willing to share them if you would like to see them.

I can say that it took a lot longer for the code to reset after the 82Ω incident than it did with the 100Ω incident. In both cases, I took the muzzler out until the codes reset. It took just a few days during the summer for the 100Ω CEL to clear. For the 82Ω, when it was much cooler (45°-55°) it took a week and half, close to 300 miles, including a one day trip that was over 150 miles with at least a dozen starts/shutdowns during the trip. I made sure that I took at least one "warmup trip" each day. ECT1 temps would always get above 172° even getting over 180° on the one 80° day during that period. The length of time it took for the CEL to reset did have me wondering if it wasn't just the muzzler but maybe it was a vehicle tolerance issue.

I will save a log with the 68Ω installed later tonight.

If you'd be interested in seeing them, PM me with a way to get them to you.

Unfortunately, I don't have another Ody to compare mine to.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,474
Resistors are very stable components and rarely vary out of spec. They are rarely out by more than a very small percentage. These are not worked hard at all as far as power goes, the sensor signal is very low current, so the will last virtually forever without changing.
 

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If you'd be interested in seeing them, PM me with a way to get them to you.

Unfortunately, I don't have another Ody to compare mine to.
sorry, I don't have time with my work load to deal with it.
If you want to chart ECTS1 values with and without muzzler during warmup and throw these charts here, even overlap them on the same graph, that could be interesting to see.
Bottom line, the graph I posted above displays what causes p0128. Car is not warming up properly to the computer expectations.
IIRC, for the light to reset, there has to be 3 consecutive start ups where issue was not detected.
Good luck.
 

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sorry, I don't have time with my work load to deal with it.
If you want to chart ECTS1 values with and without muzzler during warmup and throw these charts here, even overlap them on the same graph, that could be interesting to see.
Bottom line, the graph I posted above displays what causes p0128. Car is not warming up properly to the computer expectations.
IIRC, for the light to reset, there has to be 3 consecutive start ups where issue was not detected.
Good luck.
For there to not have been 3 consecutives startups without a low-temp situation over the week and half that the CEL stayed on does seem to indicate that the issue might not be Muzzler related.

On the longest of the trips (>150 miles) we made at least a dozen stops, some as long as a half hour, some just for a few minutes. Then there were my daily warm-up drives while I attempted to get the Permanent code to clear and CEL to turn off on it's own. Toss in a bunch more startups for errands, etc. and it seems like it should have cleared way before it did.

The 68Ω has been installed and I took a couple a trips last night...at least 3 startups. If the CEL is going to come on, it might happen soon. We'll see.

Bottom line, the graph I posted above displays what causes p0128. Car is not warming up properly to the computer expectations.
That is true, but those charts are very generic. There is no indication of ambient temperature vs Engine Running Time vs ECT. I'm assuming that the Engine Running Time is allowed to be longer in 30° ambient temperatures vs. 80°. If not, we'd all be getting P0128 codes as soon as the weather turned cooler. :) Maybe that assumption is wrong and the Engine Running Time is fixed and set for the longest time required based on some really cold ambient temperature.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,477
Cooling systems change slightly over time, thermostat springs become weak or thermostats become sticky. Passages can get clogged, coolant properties change and sensors start to have more variance. If you get the P0128 code with the yellow resistor, then it's likely time for a new thermostat and a coolant flush (things that are neglected by a lot of people).

Also, in cooler months, make sure you don't have your a/c on. You'd be surprised how many forget about it. Running the a/c during cold starts in cooler weather causes the engine to take longer to warm up as the fans are running for the a/c.
 

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Cooling systems change slightly over time, thermostat springs become weak or thermostats become sticky. Passages can get clogged, coolant properties change and sensors start to have more variance. If you get the P0128 code with the yellow resistor, then it's likely time for a new thermostat and a coolant flush (things that are neglected by a lot of people).
If it's time for a coolant flush and new thermostat, it wouldn't be because of neglect. It's a 2017 with only 50K. A faulty thermostat, sure, that's always a possibility.

Isn't a coolant flush something like a 120K service, but typically done at 105K along with the TB and water pump?

50K seems way too early for it to need a flush. Dealer serviced, CPO vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,479
should be ok for a while I didn’t read enough to know the year and model. All vehicles have variations so I wouldn’t be concerned.
 
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