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Discussion Starter #1
Out of all the variations of the muzzler's that are out there, which have you preferred, which are best, and lastly where did you buy? Our van is a 2017 EXL with about 43,000. I am just learning about disabling the VCM. Did some searches, but do not want to read years old data if there's a better and improved part out there.
 

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VCM Tuner II is the current state of the art so to speak. If I could do it over again, I might have sprung for that one but it was 50% more expensive than the VCM Tuner.

For $80 tho, I can still highly recommend the VCM Tuner. I bought it directly from the guy who makes them. Whatever setting I have it dialed in at is currently disabling VCM 100% of the time. I’ll have to adjust that tho when cooler weather comes in the winter. Customer service was top notch too. The wires on my first one came loose while driving. He replaced it for me free of charge, I just had to send my original back in. Received a brand new one that he said had stronger connections between the wire and connector.
 

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I run an S-VCM Custom, I would recommend just going with a normal S-VCM or the VCMTuner II. Ours has been installed only for 3 months, but over the summer, HOT, HOT days and not a single issue and we're still getting very good to ridiculous gas mileage.

If you're going to do it, do it; buy once/cry once. At around $100 it's a cheap investment to make to protect your vehicle.

Good luck!
 

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I bought mine from Max, works great!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
VCM Tuner II is the current state of the art so to speak. If I could do it over again, I might have sprung for that one but it was 50% more expensive than the VCM Tuner.

For $80 tho, I can still highly recommend the VCM Tuner. I bought it directly from the guy who makes them. Whatever setting I have it dialed in at is currently disabling VCM 100% of the time. I’ll have to adjust that tho when cooler weather comes in the winter. Customer service was top notch too. The wires on my first one came loose while driving. He replaced it for me free of charge, I just had to send my original back in. Received a brand new one that he said had stronger connections between the wire and connector.
Where can the VCM Muzzler II be purchased?
 

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I bought a $1 resistor from ebay, some weatherproof, crimp on bullet connectors, and some plastic wire protective loom from the auto parts store and for under $10, installed on my Odyssey and Accord by cutting the appropriate coolant sensor wire. been working perfect with no ECO light since installed in 2016.
 

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I bought a $1 resistor from ebay, some weatherproof, crimp on bullet connectors, and some plastic wire protective loom from the auto parts store and for under $10, installed on my Odyssey and Accord by cutting the appropriate coolant sensor wire. been working perfect with no ECO light since installed in 2016.
Nice work. 🍻

I did basically the same thing several years ago as well. Since I already had all the parts, I can say the total cost was probably less than a dollar.

A few months ago, since I was working on stuff in the vicinity while installing a voltage gauge on the dash, I installed a dashboard switch so the resistor can be effectively removed (shorted out) whenever needed.
 

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I sprung last week for the VCMtuner II and it finally arrived today. I'm not overly impressed with his customer service, as he's impossible to communicate with other than email. And the shipping took forever (ok, a week, I guess I'm being dramatic) but it does seem like a nice setup. Great instructions and it works fine with no CEL's. I do feel a little anxious about it, as I would with any muzzler, since I'm a fanatic with watching gauges. If I'm understanding it correctly, it'll always show the temp at 1/3 until the actual temp exceeds 212°F. I've saved head gaskets before by catching the temps beginning to rise before an overheat. So this is going to take some getting use to. But that anxiety pales in comparison to what I felt when seeing that ECO light come on. It was nice today on my test drive watching it not come on, knowing the engine is running as it should.
 

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Hi there, just bought a CPO 2017 SE on Saturday. Never heard about the VCM issue until this forum. Can you please give a quick explanation on what the VCM issue is and how the different muzzlers work?
 

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Here's a pretty good thread on it:

 

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I sprung last week for the VCMtuner II and it finally arrived today. I'm not overly impressed with his customer service, as he's impossible to communicate with other than email. And the shipping took forever (ok, a week, I guess I'm being dramatic) but it does seem like a nice setup. Great instructions and it works fine with no CEL's. I do feel a little anxious about it, as I would with any muzzler, since I'm a fanatic with watching gauges. If I'm understanding it correctly, it'll always show the temp at 1/3 until the actual temp exceeds 212°F. I've saved head gaskets before by catching the temps beginning to rise before an overheat. So this is going to take some getting use to. But that anxiety pales in comparison to what I felt when seeing that ECO light come on. It was nice today on my test drive watching it not come on, knowing the engine is running as it should.
You know, I have been around here for quite a while and do not remember any Odyssey overheating except for a very high mileage one towing in the mountains. Turned out to be a clogged radiator. Always use the real Honda long life coolant.
 

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I sprung last week for the VCMtuner II and it finally arrived today. I'm not overly impressed with his customer service, as he's impossible to communicate with other than email. And the shipping took forever (ok, a week, I guess I'm being dramatic) but it does seem like a nice setup. Great instructions and it works fine with no CEL's. I do feel a little anxious about it, as I would with any muzzler, since I'm a fanatic with watching gauges. If I'm understanding it correctly, it'll always show the temp at 1/3 until the actual temp exceeds 212°F. I've saved head gaskets before by catching the temps beginning to rise before an overheat. So this is going to take some getting use to. But that anxiety pales in comparison to what I felt when seeing that ECO light come on. It was nice today on my test drive watching it not come on, knowing the engine is running as it should.
Sorry if I hyped up the customer service, I worked with him only thru email. Pretty sure this is a single dude building these out of a garage in CA, so I was pretty impressed I received warranty service :)
 

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Sorry if I hyped up the customer service, I worked with him only thru email. Pretty sure this is a single dude building these out of a garage in CA, so I was pretty impressed I received warranty service :)
No not at all. In fact, I didn't even realize what you had posted, so my post was not a response to yours. I was simply relating what happened to me, and it was this week, so still fresh in my mind. I really wanted to speak to him due to my concerns. I wanted to know how this thing actually works and pick his brain as to things that I could expect, or look for, to avoid any catastrophes in the future. But I never could get ahold of him.
 

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Always use the real Honda long life coolant.
Hmm, I wonder what that consists of? I'll have to look it up. I'm not one for buying into hype. I'm not afraid to spend the money for quality parts, but I also don't like being duped into name brands.

For example, I'm really into riding dirt bikes, woods/enduro. In the dirt bike world, the big thing is Engine Ice coolant. People claim they see instant change in their performance, engine temps, etc which is a big joke. Engine Ice is nothing more than propylene glycol with blue dye in it. (But it has "Ice" in the title, so it HAS to be better!) When in fact, ethylene glycol (the green stuff) does a better job of heat dissipation.

If the Honda stuff is indeed better, I'll buy it. But I'll definitely research it first.

Thanks
 

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No not at all. In fact, I didn't even realize what you had posted, so my post was not a response to yours. I was simply relating what happened to me, and it was this week, so still fresh in my mind. I really wanted to speak to him due to my concerns. I wanted to know how this thing actually works and pick his brain as to things that I could expect, or look for, to avoid any catastrophes in the future. But I never could get ahold of him.
Some people like to shoot the shit about things, some don't. Evidently this guy don't. To be fair, none of the makers seem to be. I bought one last week (VCTuner II) got it yesterday and installed. So far so good. Laughs, it feels different. Much more like a older model car, i hated that disconnected feeling between my foot and engine. I still feel the drive by wire sensation but it lessened it quite a bit.
 

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Are you guys talking about the user verbatim?

Doing some research....

You guys buy straight from vcmtuner.com?

I have been out of it for a bit...thanks
 

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Hmm, I wonder what that consists of? I'll have to look it up. I'm not one for buying into hype. I'm not afraid to spend the money for quality parts, but I also don't like being duped into name brands.

For example, I'm really into riding dirt bikes, woods/enduro. In the dirt bike world, the big thing is Engine Ice coolant. People claim they see instant change in their performance, engine temps, etc which is a big joke. Engine Ice is nothing more than propylene glycol with blue dye in it. (But it has "Ice" in the title, so it HAS to be better!) When in fact, ethylene glycol (the green stuff) does a better job of heat dissipation.

If the Honda stuff is indeed better, I'll buy it. But I'll definitely research it first.

Thanks
The reason that OEM Honda coolant is so popular isn't because its heat dissipation properties are superior to the others. It's because it is every bit as good at managing heat as the competition, with the added benefit of the proper chemistry to keep all the cooling system components happy and healthy for the entire rated lifespan of the coolant. Some coolants don't play well with each other if mixed and can turn into a goopy gel-like gunk inside the cooling system, which is when the real fun starts. If you stick to OEM, you never have to wonder how well the new and any old coolant will mix.

There's just not that much advantage to be had in trying to get cute with finding something cheaper or better when the factory stuff does a great job and you only need to deal with it once every 5-10 years. I'm sure there are other good options but to me at least, the impetus to find and verify them isn't all that great.
 

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There's just not that much advantage to be had in trying to get cute with finding something cheaper or better when the factory stuff does a great job and you only need to deal with it once every 5-10 years. I'm sure there are other good options but to me at least, the impetus to find and verify them isn't all that great.
Bingo. No reason to be penny wise and pound foolish here. The factory coolant is guaranteed to work well. Just go with it even if it is $10 or $30 more a gallon. No eating of head gaskets, right lubrication for the water pump, fully compatible with all seals/o-rings, etc. Same deal with Toyota coolant in Toyotas (where I have much more experience).

-Charlie
 

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If I'm understanding it correctly, it'll always show the temp at 1/3 until the actual temp exceeds 212°F. I've saved head gaskets before by catching the temps beginning to rise before an overheat. So this is going to take some getting use to.
The factory gauge unmuzzled won't move until above 215*F or so anyway - you aren't going to miss anything. 212*F is not a magic number when you have coolant - the boiling point is much higher both due to the system pressure and antifreeze mixture.

Heck, with AC off, the radiator fans turn on to high speed at 205*F, so anything up to that point is totally normal.

-Charlie
 
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