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The reason that OEM Honda coolant is so popular isn't because its heat dissipation properties are superior to the others. It's because it is every bit as good at managing heat as the competition, with the added benefit of the proper chemistry to keep all the cooling system components happy and healthy for the entire rated lifespan of the coolant. Some coolants don't play well with each other if mixed and can turn into a goopy gel-like gunk inside the cooling system, which is when the real fun starts. If you stick to OEM, you never have to wonder how well the new and any old coolant will mix.

There's just not that much advantage to be had in trying to get cute with finding something cheaper or better when the factory stuff does a great job and you only need to deal with it once every 5-10 years. I'm sure there are other good options but to me at least, the impetus to find and verify them isn't all that great.
Bingo. No reason to be penny wise and pound foolish here. The factory coolant is guaranteed to work well. Just go with it even if it is $10 or $30 more a gallon. No eating of head gaskets, right lubrication for the water pump, fully compatible with all seals/o-rings, etc. Same deal with Toyota coolant in Toyotas (where I have much more experience).

-Charlie
These are similar to all the posts that are pro-Engine Ice. They make sense, but lack any real information. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to start any sort of debate, but "Honda" printed on the bottle doesn't make it the best, even for Hondas. The fact is, it also is most likely just propylene glycol, since that's the new in-thing. And its advantages are pretty much limited to this: your cats can drink it and not be a door stop the next day. I could very well be wrong here, as far as what comprises the coolant, but Honda's aluminum block and Koyo bearings don't have any special needs that other Japanese cars don't have.

I'm not trying to be "cute", but I am trying to make an informed decision and not be a naïve consumer, whom we all know the manufacturers key in on. I'm a thrifty consumer. Which is one of the reasons that I was able to go to FL and pay cash for this van. As I said before, if it's better I'll buy it. For me, it's not so much spending a few extra dollars, it's the principal of the matter.
 
These are similar to all the posts that are pro-Engine Ice.
Except that isn't the OEM fluid... Start with the assumption that the OEM solution is 'correct' - and deviate when you have evidence that you should do something different. There are a number of situations where deviation from OEM is a good idea (either for performance, longevity or price), but coolant just isn't one without knowing proprietary information we don't have access to.

-Charlie
 
I tend to take a more pragmatic view of these things...

The factory cooling system in our Odysseys is remarkably robust and resilient with minimal intervention on the part of users or mechanics - you practically NEVER hear of Odysseys overheating, blowing hoses or shredding water pumps, even when they are neglected. Undesired interactions between different coolant formulations are not rare - it can happen and has happened and the fixes aren't so cheap that the risk is worth the consequences (I'm thrifty too - I'd rather pay for OEM coolant instead of a mechanic's time). Given that all this is true, the conclusion I am drawn to is that the OEM coolant is a perfectly adequate choice for the job it's being asked to do and a good value. Since it lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 years any cost difference is easy to amortize over such a long period of time. Like I said, I'm sure there are other good choices but I don't see the value in seeking them out when we're talking about a few dollars per year on average.

I do not necessarily have this same attitude towards items that have a shorter service life - engine oil, oil filters, air filters, cabin filters, transmission fluid, wiper blades, etc... get a careful analysis of value for the money because their aggregate cost is higher. They don't last as long and I have to buy them more frequently and so it costs me more.

Travelling half the country away to (presumably) save thousands on the purchase of a van is totally different - that's a one-shot deal that was probably integrated into a bit of a holiday. Mixing business and pleasure like that is a good way to stay thrifty and I'll never talk that down. But trying to save a few bucks on engine coolant in these vans is a false economy. The OEM stuff is really good with a solid and documented track record, and not all that expensive.
 
Those are solid points :)

Sorry if my post came across as a little crappy. With some of this stuff, coolant in particular, I'm easily agitated regarding dealer pricing etc. The Engine Ice that I keep harping on is $50/gal. That's over a 300% increase over the the same stuff with a different label. IMO that goes beyond robbery. But I will readily admit, as I already have, that I know very little in this area, as Ody maintenance is a bit of a new thing to me.

You guys are all correct IMO. If it's only a few bucks more, is it even worth the hassle to do all the research? (Although I love researching stuff, so I still will lol) Thanks for all you guys' help.
 
Are you guys talking about the user verbatim?

Doing some research....

You guys buy straight from vcmtuner.com?

I have been out of it for a bit...thanks
No not, Verbatim. It's my understanding he's from Canada. The guy from CA. He answered my question but really all of these sites seem to just have a FAQ section and they cover most things there with any questions answered pretty much from it. I realize they don't want to tell people how to build their own.
I had built a O2 sensor fooler once that didn't work quite right so that was my experience doing electronic work. I'd rather buy it done.
 
Out of all the variations of the muzzler's that are out there, which have you preferred, which are best, and lastly where did you buy? Our van is a 2017 EXL with about 43,000. I am just learning about disabling the VCM. Did some searches, but do not want to read years old data if there's a better and improved part out there.
I purchased the VCM Tuner 2. I don't remember where I purchased it, I know it wasn't on Amazon or eBay. Just do a search on Google. It cost me $125.00. With my fat fingers, it was a little tough to get the connector off of the temp sensor so I used a long needle nose plyers and I only used enough force to grip the connector and it came right off. DO NOT SQUEEZE TOO TIGHT AND CRUSH THE CONNECTOR. Been working great no codes being thrown. My mileage going 60-65 MPH is 33 MPG, if I kick it up to 70-75 I get about 29 MPG.
 
Re: coolant It is not even that expensive considering how often one changes it. Full retail is under $20. a gallon and it can be had for under $14.

How many Odysseys overheat? Anybody remember a report of that around here?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
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You know, I have been around here for quite a while and do not remember any Odyssey overheating except for a very high mileage one towing in the mountains. Turned out to be a clogged radiator. Always use the real Honda long life coolant.
That is not the reason for the VCM muzzlers. The reason is to disable the Variable Cylinder Management and its bad effects on the engine and Honda's active motor mounts.
 
That is not the reason for the VCM muzzlers. The reason is to disable the Variable Cylinder Management and its bad effects on the engine and Honda's active motor mounts.
What he means is that if your Honda over heats while using a VCM muzzler, you wouldn’t know right away just how high the coolant temp was due to be spoofed signal.
 
I contacted Verbatim directly via PM on this forum. My unit came quickly via Canada post (I'm in Maryland). I installed it on Tuesday and so far so good.
 
What he means is that if your Honda over heats while using a VCM muzzler, you wouldn’t know right away just how high the coolant temp was due to be spoofed signal.
But the S-VCM will tell your right away.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Man! I just got my VCM Muzzler II in from Verbatim for my 2017 EXL. It took about a week for it tom come in after I paid. I waited until this AM to install so the engine sat cold overnight. Took all of 5 minutes. The ECO light came on once just after the engine temp warmed up, but it hasn't since. I've driven about 50 miles today and the van runs like a completely different van. More responsive, doesn't stumble when giving it gas to get out ECO mode, and there are zero vibrations I would get like the van was driving over a rumble strip. Overall the van feels less clunky between 0-45 mph, and the buzzing sensations I got before are all eliminated. So glad I finally decided to do this to our van, my only regret is waiting 43,000 miles. I'm sold on this thing!!!
 
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