Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
2015 EX-L
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Club,

I’ve got a 2015 EX-L with 75,000 miles, just purchased used about 4 months ago. Since I’ve been an ody club member, I’ve been convinced that a muzzler would be beneficial.

So, a couple of questions...
As a CA resident, it’s not a walk in the park to get the VCM tuner II (If you’re a CA resident, maybe you know what I’m talking about). I had my heart set on the tuner II, but CA emissions regulations will allow me to get I, but not the other.
How does the tuner I compare to the tuner II?
Hypothetically, if I had the tuner II in my county and state, I would have to remove it every two years to perform an emissions test. The tuner I has been CARB exempt by the state and could stay on indefinitely.

Second question...
Obviously my ody is right at the mileage point when the VCM starts causing problems. The tuner isn’t going to prevent damage that’s already been done, but it’s still going to be beneficial, right? Wondering what to have the mechanic check when I take it to get serviced eventually (probably during its first oil change in my care).

I love love love my EX-L. I would love love love to drive it until the wheels fall off, so I want to keep it running for as long as possible.

Thanks for your thoughts and advice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Buy and S-VCM, you're all set.

Or buy a Tuner II, have it shipped to a relative/friend out of state and have them ship it into CA.

Check your plugs, see how ugly they are; replace via your dealer or RockAuto only (lots of fakes out there). Run some SeaFoam or the like through the gas to try and clean up any junk on the VCM cylinders.

And make sure your transmission is serviced! Lots of threads here on this...
 

·
Registered
2016 Touring Elite
Joined
·
1,211 Posts
You'll never have an issue with smog. If it is discretely installed, no smog tech will even see it. They do a visual inspection and plug into the OBD-II system and that's it these days (for new-ish cars). As of now, NONE of the VCM defeating devices are technically legal in California - but since the maker of the VCM Tuner-II is trying to get CARB approval, he is not selling it in California.

Or, just get an SVCM and be done with it (similar price, no shipping hassles). It can easily be deactivated by removing a fuse for the once or twice during your ownership of the van where an idle re-learn is needed. It installs very discretely and easily:



-Charlie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,463 Posts
The original VCMTuner, with the dial, is available in a CARB compliant version. It just has somewhat less adjustability.
I am using one of the non CARB versions (because I bought it used from the Buy,Sell,Trade forum here from an out of state seller) on my 2015. I left it at the default setting, and have not seen an ECO light since. While I think that the S-VCM and the VCMTunerII Advanced are often preferable products, I also think that it depends on how much the weather varies where you live. I am in southern California and I doubt I will ever need to fiddle with it at all. If I lived somewhere that gets really hot or really cold over the course of a year, then an auto adjustable one might be a good idea. (I'm on my 10th Honda and never had one overheat, so my concerns about that are low)

Here is a cut & paste from the VCMTuner (plain) install manual:

"READ - WARNING- Before you adjust the dial or install the product
You should use a camera phone to take a picture of the initial setting of the tuner dial. This is your factory reference point – which is 82-83 ohms of resistance (2007+ models) and resides between the 40-45 setting on the dial. On CARB versions, 82-83 ohms resides between setting 60-65. For 2005-2006 models, the default resistance is 100 ohms, which is 50-55 on the dial. For CARB versions of 2005-2006, the default setting is position 80 at approximately 100 ohms. Also, a screwdriver must be used in the arrow slot of the dial for adjustment. Some users have thought that the housing could be turned, which would end up breaking the unit. This initial setting will also determine the maximum value you should safely use. If the 45 mark is your factory reference point, the max value you should attempt to use would be approximately 65 on the dial. If your factory reference point is at 40, then the 60 value is the max value you should attempt to use. You should test the factory setting before adjusting the unit to see if this resistance value works for your vehicle. Owners of 2005-2006 model vehicles normally need to utilize a higher resistance value due to a different coolant temperature sensor model. (e.g. setting 50-55) and may have to utilize a higher value than 60 to achieve results in some situations. When installing the product, be careful not to over-stress the connectors on the wire harness during installation. If a wire comes loose from the harness, you will need a replacement harness."

It has been the opinion of our resident mechanic guru, John Clark, that just disabling and driving is all you need to do if your plugs are not already damaged and setting codes. If you are having issues, then replacing the plugs might be enough. There are folks around here who have used a scope to look down the plug hole and observe the carbon condition and feel that using a decarbonizing method is warranted. Before Honda settled the lawsuit, decarbonizing was what they did. For me, muzzling is enough probably. But I just bought my 2015 six months ago with only 23k on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,256 Posts
Any of the devices are good enough to prevent the VCM-caused damage. Bottom line, just put on something.

My recommendations are that if you already have misfires, and are still under the warranty, let Honda do their thing and replace rings. Then when you get it back, disable the VCM. If you're outside of warranty and have misfires, then disable VCM, replace the plugs, and drive it. Most of the time that cures it and the rings will clean themselves up once the cylinders are firing all the time. If you don't have misfires but notice oil consumption then disable VCM, check plugs for fouling and if fouled replace them. Usually, the oil consumption will slow considerably.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
im sure some state and federal laws would be broken in that process.

Install it out of state then drive it home...
So you're stating my recommendation breaks the law, so you're recommending this law breaking item be installed out of state and then driven into a state where's it outlawed? ;)

Buy an S-VCM while you can. Many happy owners of these Muzzler here on this forum, myself included.

If California knew that the VCM system ends up burning more oil over time and causes more pollution they might rethink all this, but they are in the dark as are the majority of Honda owners to the issues with this version of the tech.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,463 Posts
So you're stating my recommendation breaks the law, so you're recommending this law breaking item be installed out of state and then driven into a state where's it outlawed? ;)

Buy an S-VCM while you can. Many happy owners of these Muzzler here on this forum, myself included.

If California knew that the VCM system ends up burning more oil over time and causes more pollution they might rethink all this, but they are in the dark as are the majority of Honda owners to the issues with this version of the tech.
This is only an issue if you want the VCMTunerII Advanced. The original product he still makes does come in a CARB* version, approved for use in California. There are very few places in California you would need the auto adjustment anyway.

*there are actually several states that use CARB standards. In most cases, there is no difference in the vehicles themselves (auto makers don't want to make two versions) just length of the emissions warranty.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top