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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody know why a 2010 odyssey EX-L would get worst gas mileage then a 2001 odyssey?

On the 2010 we normally get about 250 miles before a fill up.

On the 2001 we normally get about 350 miles before a fill up.

Both of these vans have the same size gas tank and we do the exact same type of driving on both vans. We asked the person at the dealer and they didn't think anything was wrong.

Somebody asked me if the ECO light turns on on the 2010, and yes it does.
 

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You need to post what your actual miles per gallon is, since saying "about x miles before a fill up" doesn't really mean much.

I owned a 2001 before we got a 2010. My actual MPG is about 1 MPG less with the 2010 than the 2001, so I'm seeing a slight decrease.
 

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Your 2010 is probably a big heavier and your engine has a bit more power, both of which will affect your fuel mileage.

I'd run a few tanks and track actual miles and gallons put in to confirm your conclusion.

Cheers.
 

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Brand and age of the tires can affect fuel economy.
 

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Just filled up today, mixed driving mostly to school and back which is short, a lot of town, a bit of highway 30%?, my calc'd mpg was 18.5 and I was mad I didn't get 20. I have a pretty light foot most of the time but that tank did have two wide open merges. Not too bad, but I'd like to keep it above 20, which maybe wishful thinking.
 

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A 30% drop seems like a lot - maybe it's driving habits? The newer Odyssey probably feels more composed, etc. so it's easier to be going faster than you think... The 2010 isn't that much heavier than the 01 (225 lbs or so) and has a bit stronger engine (240ft-lbs/244hp vs. 229/210) and they are around the same height/width, so I don't know if size/engine plays too much of a role (they are also both rated at 16/23 for mpg)

tires and tire pressure can have a big impact (as well as fuel quality) but I don't think that would explain a 30% drop...
 

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I filled up today and calc'ed the MPG at 17.9

That is in the high side for me for all in town driving short trips (short being 3 miles or less)

The weather here has warmed up a bit (the 12mpg was with 20F mornings, now closer to 40F) so I am sure that is good for part of it.

However, if you see my other thread about ODB2 communication issues, you will know that I just changed out the 2 wideband O2 sensors (bank 1 sensor 1, bank 2 sensor 1) and this is my first tank running 100% on the new O2 sensors.

I also recently put in mobil 1 EP 5W-20 oil (what I had in there before was the Napa Synthetic, which is made by valvoline 5W-20) I am sure the EP is 'better' oil, but not sure if that helped the MPG much.

It makes me wonder what really caused the mileage change (as always, it's a little bit of everything).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A 30% drop seems like a lot - maybe it's driving habits? The newer Odyssey probably feels more composed, etc. so it's easier to be going faster than you think... The 2010 isn't that much heavier than the 01 (225 lbs or so) and has a bit stronger engine (240ft-lbs/244hp vs. 229/210) and they are around the same height/width, so I don't know if size/engine plays too much of a role (they are also both rated at 16/23 for mpg)

tires and tire pressure can have a big impact (as well as fuel quality) but I don't think that would explain a 30% drop...
I figured these cars are almost the same in weight. I still don't know what is causing the poor gas mileage.
 

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Willy, have you had the fuel injectors tested for proper operation, or you can check the plugs for burn pattern, brake dragging, or something but obviously even for a hilly area like you probably live in, that's way low. Know you mentioned you checked it out but still think I'd rent one for a week or day and see what MPG you get...something to compare to.
 

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Willy

I would go out on a limb and say that you probably have a sensor or sensors that are operating well enough to not throw a check engine light, but are probably on the edge of being in the acceptable range. Your vehicle MUST be running rich all the time to get MPG that bad all the time.


Have you thought about picking up an ODB2 reader of some sorts that can give you full details of all the sensor operations? I would say you need one that connects to a laptop and can monitor all gauges and store information for later analysis. If you already have a laptop, the ODB2 connector and software are probably only $40.

Read up on how O2 sensors work, monitor their voltage once you hit closed loop operation.

The MAF sensor could also be a culprit. If yours is on the fringe, the mileage will be ****. There are plenty of tests (Google) to see good / bad on a MAF but very few to check if they are borderline acceptable, again an ODB2 laptop with full gauges and logging could help. You can check MAF sensor operation at various throttle positions.


The other thing it could easily be is a vacuum leak somewhere, this could be very hard to track down on your own.

I wouldn't expect the typical dealership to waste time trying to track down any of the above if brought in under a warranty complaint. Mechanics today think if the Check Engine light is ON, then those systems are all 100% fine.
 

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We recently traded from a 2002 EXL RES to a 2010 EXL RES and have also experienced the same thing. With the 2002, my mileage would be 20-22mpg mixed driving. I would get about 350miles before the the light would come on.

With the 2010, we're getting 16mpg at best. So, instead of filling up once every 2 weeks, Im filling up around every 10 days.

Needless to say, not a good thing with gas prices being what they are.
 

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MPG Help

My trips are generally short (city, <5 miles to work and then back, total 10 miles/day). Probably not good for the engine or battery. Switched to 5w20 synthetic and may go 0w20 next change. Anyway, that almost doesn't register on my worry list, but the poor MPG does is at the top.

I'm willing to work/investigate options to get this improved - something has to be wrong with the 10mpg (min) - 14 mpg (best). Looked up O2 sensors, but a set is fairly pricey (then labor), otherwise would've just thrown parts at it (it would be like a little over a month's worth of gas).

Any recommendations where to start: First thing is proper tools - OBD reader or Scan Guage or ultra gauge? What's best for EX-L (i.e. VCM engine)?

I read about software/laptop and OBD connector - any particular kind?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the advice guys, unfortunately, it has all been done and all is operating as it should. Short trips in the cold are not something the Oddy likes....I can't see us having this van much longer...it is falling apart at 46K miles and rusting in several places.
 
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