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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2010 Odyssey with around 20,000 miles. Still well under warranty. Had terrible shutter in the front end, took it in today - of course warped rotors is the call. The dealer and Honda apparently consider rotors (at 20,000 miles) maintenance items and won't cover the simple cost of re-surfacing them (I understand pads but ROTORS?). It shutters so bad the whole front end shakes to the point of possibly losing control of the vehicle. We don't drive hard!

Wondering if anyone else is having issues with premature rotor warping. I am considering submitting it to the NHTSA as a safetly issue with the vehicle - if others are having these issues maybe we can get a service bulletin (this has got to be pre-mature failure & shoddy quality if others are having this issue).

The best part of the story was the dealer (salesperson who sold me the car and to a point the service staff) in Boone telling me they just sell the cars and shouldn't be that responsible for them after that (if Honda doesn't address it). Got to love dealers, all about the $$$, not about service and goodwill after the sale.
 

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You may have already asked, but did they use a dial gauge to check runout (side-to-side displacement) of the rotors in question?

A simple test drive will tell them that the car is coming to a juddering stop, but it won't tell them if warping is the cause.

I had gone through a couple of front rotors on my Dodge 1/2-ton 4x4 truck, under warranty...the Chrysler mechanics said they were warped, but they could not find any runout while spinning them. They were perfectly flat (well, at least the second set was; I don't think they ran a gauge on the first set). They installed new brakes, and on the advice of another mechanic (a jet mechanic in our local Corvette club), I bedded the pads. The procedure I used was pretty close to this one:

Bed those brake pads

I knew nothing about why it would work, but I felt I had nothing to lose. The Chrysler mechanic had said, "I don't get it...guys do just one panic stop in these Dodge trucks from freeway speed...and now the brakes are warped." Not his exact words (I didn't have a tape recorder), but you get the point.

After doing the bedding procedure, that set of brakes lasted, IIRC, another 80,000 miles. I then sold the truck, and the brakes still had a decent amount of serviceable pad material remaining.

I did this procedure on both of our Odys. I'm at 99,700 miles on our 2002 EX, and the pads are just about at the thickness where they will need replacement. Same with our 2003 EX, which has 104,000 miles. Both are on the factory original pads and rotors.

OF
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The dealer told me they inspected them and they were warped, I do not know the procedure they used and I did not verify it myself.

I had a similar problem with rotors on a 2002 ODY. but not anywhere near this few miles. As soon as I replaced the original rotors on the 2002 with aftermarkets I never had another problem with shutter.

Therefore my concern over these on the 2010 with only 20,000. Did Chrysler take care of it under warranty, Honda wants to tell me EVERYONE considers rotors as maintenance items and don't cover them.
 

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They did take care of the brake rotors under warranty. However, all they did was test drive it the first time. The dial gauge didn't come out until the second set of rotors, so they said.

By the time my 7/70 warranty expired, parts of the transmission had been replaced, the transfer case went through a rebuild (due to a servicing mistake by a Chrysler mechanic), I was on my THIRD rear axle, and FOURTH drive shaft.

They did not cover, however, cover the power steering or PCM failures. The Hall Effect switch in the electronic ignition failed annually, and they NEVER replaced that. It got to the point that I carried a spare, a tool set, and a timing gun and got good at removing the distributor and replacing it. The last time I did it was on I-10 just after crossing into New Mexico from Texas.

It was troublesome to go in for warranty work, over and over and over and over and over again. At least that truck didn't catch on fire, like some Chrysler products have been wont to do. By the time I sold it, nearly everything aft of the engine's rear seal had been replaced. Oh, and I replaced the Chrysler driveshaft with a Ford pattern driveshaft, which cured all of the vibration problems.

The usual means by which mechanics check for warped rotors is a test drive, which is incorrect...but they'll say, "Oh, we checked it...they're warped." The manual calls for a dial gauge.

OF
 

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1. The warranty issues: I do not know but generally brake rotor and pad are considered wear-and-tear item, so only have 12m/12K miles warranty in any cars (I might be wrong).

2. The rotor and pad issues. I use Autozone "Duralast" Rotor ($42/each) and Pads ($40 for the set). Do NOT get the "Everlast", it is bad stuff.
FYI: Autozone carries 3 lines of products: "Everlast", "Duralast", and "Duralast Gold".

Stick to Duralast.

The Autozone rotor: 2-yr warranty
The Autozone Pad: warranty as long as you own the vehicle. YES, this is true.
If and whenever the pad is worn down, bring them in and they will give you another set for FREE.

I have had the "Duralast" Rotors and Pads now for almost a year, zero issues, no noise, minimal dust. Braking effect fantastic.

All info and DIY instructions here:

DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey Front Brake Rotor:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=577558
 

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My 08 Ody had warped rotors at about 6,000miles, and the dealer machined both fronts under warranty. They did it because the car was still in the first year of ownership and under 12,000miles. The machining did fix the problem.

You have every right to be upset with warped rotors at 20,000miles, but brake is a wear and tear item, so they are not obligated to fix it for free. This goes for Nissan and Toyota.

Those people that state their dealer fixed this and that for free after x number of miles, they are lucky because their dealer are in the business of making their customer happy. Some dealer just do everything by the book and that's that.
 

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I complained of the same problem at ~28k - dealer said pads are wear items, but not rotors. I left the van for service and when I came back, they had turned the rotors under warranty - no charge (said pads were still OK). This helped for about 10k - now same problem is coming back. BTW I agree w/ others that question whether the rotors are really warped or if it's the way the pad friction material riding on the rotor surface during braking. There have been other posts on this forum that describe dealers covering rotors, but not pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also continued my research and did find more postings of other car companies (and dealerships) that did do the right thing for the customer. Unfortuantely, my local dealership is only interested in the bottom line $$ and not customer satisfaction - I got this word for word from several individuals in the dealership. It is a shame.

When it gets worse I will just replace them myself. The last time I did this on a honda van, I NEVER had a problem again for the life of the van. I will definately make sure I do more research on the local dealership before I buy again!
 

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brownhf said:
I also continued my research and did find more postings of other car companies (and dealerships) that did do the right thing for the customer. Unfortuantely, my local dealership is only interested in the bottom line $$ and not customer satisfaction - I got this word for word from several individuals in the dealership. It is a shame.

When it gets worse I will just replace them myself. The last time I did this on a honda van, I NEVER had a problem again for the life of the van. I will definately make sure I do more research on the local dealership before I buy again!
I feel your pain, but don't necessarily agree with everything you say. People do effect how brakes wear out. Some on this board change brakes at 30k, on our ody I changed brakes at 65k and they were at 50%. How would a dealer really know how you drive and brake your van? Please note, I am not accusing you of abusing your brakes.

Also sales and repair, while located under dealer umbrella are two separate entities. I don't agree with a lot of things dealer does. I have logged my own complains on this board and with Corporate Honda. It would be nice for a dealer to give you a free machining of the rotors, but they are really not obligated to do it. Sometimes it helps to try a different dealer. In this case I would not waste anymore time.

Bottom line, if you are handy, get a new set of rotors. I use Centric 120 series, but have used Duralast as well. Either should run you around $100 delivered.

Finally Honda rotors seem to be complete crap, so machining them or getting a set of new ones will only guarantee the problem reappearing later down the road.
good luck
Max
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, that was my plan. I was just curious if others thought that Honda rotors were crap, that was my experience. Apparently it is the experience of others as well.
 

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GL4 said:
BTW I agree w/ others that question whether the rotors are really warped or if it's the way the pad friction material riding on the rotor surface during braking.
That is not possible on the Odyssey.

On my prelude on a track day that could happen if I come off a hot lap and lift the hand brake. Only the rears would be affected.

I doubt anybody hear tracks their Odyssey.
 

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After reading couple of papers describing "Warped rotor" phenomenon, I tend to have following opinion.

Rotors really don't warp under normal driving condition. What you have is uneven rotor surface. This could be caused by one of two things. Either you have pad deposits unevenly distributed throughout disk surface creating peaks and valleys. Alternatively you could have poorly made rotors, which wear unevenly, again creating peaks and valleys.

Disk run-out measurement will tell you how much your rotor is out whack. Honda considers run-out up to 0.004" within spec.

Max
 

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We had a 2007 Odyssey and the rotors warped in the first year, The dealer resurfaced them for free. The warp returned in a few months. We just lived with it until we traded it in after 5 years.
We bought a 2012 Odyssey. After two years the rotors warped. Given the past experience I had with the previous Odyssey I decided to live with it. A month ago we were on vacation and driving in the mountains around Durango, Colorado. The brakes got hot and the rotors warped to the point that I could hardly hold the car on the road. After the brakes cooled off the warp subsided but was still there. When we got to my wife's cousin's place in Boise, Idaho I had the rotors resurfaced and the pads replaced. So far all is well.
When I took the car to the dealer for the Pa. yearly inspection I asked my service rep about the rotors and he said he did not know of any problems. Yeah. right!!!!
 

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I recently was doing a brake job on my other car, 09 Maxima. At first glance the rotors looked good and I planned to have them machined.
It was due and I also had a slight pulsation (aka warped rotors)
When I took the rotors off, to my dismay I found that there is a lot of corrosion on the inner portion of the rotor, where it contacts the hub.
The hub also had quiet a bit of rust on it as well. This can cause a vibration of a whole different nature. When the surface between hub and rotor
rusts, it can get the rotor out of parallel plane, which will absolutely cause vibration.
Lesson learned, I ordered new rotors.
I also make sure to clean the hub every time the rotors are removed using die grinder.

Most of the time, you would be better off with new rotors (especially in the front), as opposed to resurfacing old ones.
 

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I recently was doing a brake job on my other car, 09 Maxima. At first glance the rotors looked good and I planned to have them machined.
It was due and I also had a slight pulsation (aka warped rotors)
When I took the rotors off, to my dismay I found that there is a lot of corrosion on the inner portion of the rotor, where it contacts the hub.
The hub also had quiet a bit of rust on it as well. This can cause a vibration of a whole different nature. When the surface between hub and rotor
rusts, it can get the rotor out of parallel plane, which will absolutely cause vibration.
Lesson learned, I ordered new rotors.
I also make sure to clean the hub every time the rotors are removed using die grinder.

Most of the time, you would be better off with new rotors (especially in the front), as opposed to resurfacing old ones.
This logic makes sense to me especially when you are saving so much money doing these DIY. I mean a brand new Centric C-Max rotor is like 20 bucks and a Centric Premium is 30. It costs that much to go get them machined. Then you factor in the time involved while waiting for them to be turned. And in the end your machined rotor is going to be much thinner than a new one, so even more prone to warping.

I installed the Centric Premiums on my Odyssey and they look good and feel good. Happy to spend a few extra bucks for brand new quality rotors vs the alternative. I could understand turning rotors if a new rotor cost $100 each, but when they're near the same price as turning an old one....I don't get the logic.....
 

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My 06 shook alot especially when coasting down hill and the brakes applied. I took the rotors out and resurfaced it at 65K miles and now at 100k, the shaking comes back but not as strong as before. I'm planning to replace them as soon as I come back from a trip next week.

My bother's Pilot and 03 Odyssey had the same shaking problem. It seems like Honda rotors are notorious for warping.
 

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Most of the rotors in both my cars have been replaced at least once. I ordered rotors from rockauto (great site) and replaced the warped ones. I had the warped ones turned at O'Reillys for around $25 for the pair. So I just interchanged them when they warped. You can probably get around 1 to 2 turnings before you have to chuck the rotors. Also it is important to grease the pins with silicone grease every time you do your brake pad/rotor changes. I learned the hard way with a frozen pin ( new caliper and housing required). At rockauto you get premium parts for what you pay for middling parts elsewhere. Also I never get parts from autozone (just crappy stuff that has always failed me), either the dealership or Napa, Advance, O'Reillys.
 
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