[SlowSnake]

Last night around midnight, I was woken up with the sound of the Odyssey alarm going off. I jumped out of bed, grabbed a gun from the safe, had my wife ready to call 911, locked the door behind me, and crept around the corner of the house. At first, I thought the window was busted out. Nope, just a reflection from the floodlights. I silenced the alarm and checked for signs of a break-in. Nothing. I reset the alarm and went back to sleep. About 30 minutes later, I repeated my earlier steps. The 3rd time it happened, I went outside, silenced the alarm, and hit the unlock button on the keyfob so the alarm would not set. The 4th time, after going outside again, I remembered that the doors lock and the alarm sets itself if you hit unlock on the keyfob and do not enter the vehicle in 15(??) seconds. This time I hit unlock and opened the doors. I left it unlocked until I woke up an hour or so later to get ready for work.

What I found was that the door ajar indicator for the passenger side sliding door was on. I played with the door switch and manually closed the door a few times, but the problem is still there.

I went to the dealer earlier this evening, but they could not work me in. I bought a door switch (it was super cheap) and installed it in the parking lot. It did not fix the issue. The passenger side sliding door open indicator is still lit. I did notice that whenever I put my seatbelt (driver) on, the light goes off. As soon as I unbuckle it, the light comes back on. I've opened the driver's side sliding door, and it doesn't matter if my seatbelt is buckled or not, the light stays on. Weird!!!

Anyone have any ideas where to start? I do not have a service manual, but I'd like to know how the seatbelt interfaces with the door ajar feature.

 

[SlowSnake]

Forgot to add: 2007 Odyssey EXL RES Nav

 

[momoface]

you have a fix for this issue?? i waws just wokin up by this and now my pass sliding door light is ajar...
i tried all the reset, remove all fuse,
Wat was weird is when i playing with the pass sliding power window switch both main and sliding door
the dome light and ajar door disappears.. when i let go it comes back...
please let me know wat your fix was

Thanls

 

[mtbiker]

I am having a similar problem as Slowsnake has posted on a 2006 Touring. Wife is taking the vehicle to dealer in the morning (HondaCare). I will post results.

 

[mtbiker]

Dealer, (Scott Robinson Honda, Torrance CA) found the problem in about 3 hours after drop off even though the symptoms became intermittent. Apparently some fuse/relay assembly needs to be replaced, but the dealer did not have in stock. Part is due in this week. I will post details from invoice.

 

[cwall21]

Help!

What was the fix for this?? I'm having this same crazy problem. The dealer has been useless so far, the symptom is what you're describing, but they've replaced the driver seatbelt and the door sensor so far. Hasn't fixed anything yet!

Thanks!
Chris

 

[baddad310]

Bumping this thread to 2017! My 2006 Odyssey is having a problem as well. Alarm goes off at night when doors are locked. The PSD red indicator shows "open" even when door is shut. I can shut PSD just fine and for a minute or 2 the light stays off, but then interior lights come on and red "door open" indicator lights up. I replaced the switch on the C post but same symptoms with new switch. when i depress the switch with my finger it flickers the lights, but always eventually stays "on" (meaning door indicates "open")

Not sure if it is related, but suspiciously the driver power door lock went out about the same time as these symptoms started. Had the dealer look at it and and he ended up replacing power door lock and latch mechanism ($700) The rear door issue popped up again 2 days later.

I would love to hear how the other posters ended up solving their problems! Thanks

 

[John Clark]

Bumping this thread to 2017! My 2006 Odyssey is having a problem as well. Alarm goes off at night when doors are locked. The PSD red indicator shows "open" even when door is shut. I can shut PSD just fine and for a minute or 2 the light stays off, but then interior lights come on and red "door open" indicator lights up. I replaced the switch on the C post but same symptoms with new switch. when i depress the switch with my finger it flickers the lights, but always eventually stays "on" (meaning door indicates "open")

Not sure if it is related, but suspiciously the driver power door lock went out about the same time as these symptoms started. Had the dealer look at it and and he ended up replacing power door lock and latch mechanism ($700) The rear door issue popped up again 2 days later.

I would love to hear how the other posters ended up solving their problems! Thanks

Which door is it? Is it just one door? Both doors?

Those switches feed into the MICU box in the drivers side under dash fuse box. If it's not the switch on the C pillar I would suspect a problem in that MICU box. Check to see if it's getting wet behind it. That's fairly common.

Wiring diagram:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=127898

 

[baddad310]

Thanks for that great diagram Mr. Clark, I'll check it out...

I spent $160 for the dealer to "disable" the door closed idiot light. It worked for 2 days and then BOOM, alarm goes off while my wife is at work and light comes back on on the instrument panel.

It is the passenger side power sliding door (PSD) Today I followed a tech service bulletin lead for water getting into a connector behind spare tire on drivers side. No help

I'll see about your lead, it that shows me anything. wish me luck.

 

[John Clark]

My suggestion was to check for water behind the fuse box (MICU) in the driver's side kick panel. That's where I'd start.

 

[naffpack]

Hello,

I was excited to find this thread, however there is no confirmed resolution. One poster mentioned a bad fuse/relay but never followed up.

I’m having the exact same issue in my ’06. Woke up to a dead battery due to the passenger side sliding door ajar indicator being on. Therefore, the inside lights were on because the van thought the door was opened. Apparently, this issue is intermittent since I was able to lock the doors. When the indicator is on, the doors won’t lock. I also noticed when I plugged the driver side seatbelt in, the indicator for the psd went out so there is no issue while driving as long as I’m wearing my seat belt. When parked for the night, I have to remember to put the interior lights in off mode or plug in the seatbelt. Luckily, I’m not experiencing anything crazy (yet), like my windows going down on their own. I did have the airbag light illuminate one time. All these are related because others have experienced them too. I don’t feel like paying the dealer to chase an electrical problem and fix things that don’t need fixing. I have checked all the door jamb switches and they are working. Thankfully, even though the psd indicator light in on, the obnoxious open door alarm is not while driving. I’ve already dealt with that by replacing the door latch assembly on both sides.

Any help would be outstanding! I’m sure it’s a simple fix just a matter of locating it. I’ll probably clean up the battery terminals and make sure all is connected. Thanks!

 

[dmakris]

I also am having the same issue on 2006 ELX, Driver side power door. Opens and closes as expected on both power and manual modes. However, door rear edge does not latch. When closed either manually or with power. After closing door whirs, back edge moves closer to body, and in 3-4 seconds whirs again and moves outward (maybe 1/4 inch) Just the rear edge of door.

 

[John Clark]

I also am having the same issue on 2006 ELX, Driver side power door. Opens and closes as expected on both power and manual modes. However, door rear edge does not latch. When closed either manually or with power. After closing door whirs, back edge moves closer to body, and in 3-4 seconds whirs again and moves outward (maybe 1/4 inch) Just the rear edge of door.

That's a problem in the rear door latch...either one of the switches is bad or the latch itself has a mechanical problem activating the switch.

 

[Bubba1472]

I'd start at the latch myself.... my 05 did the same thing on a cold night! Was able to heat the latch up and shut.... the latch was super loose.... and will be replacing very soon

 

[silvrsurfr]

I'm having the same problem with my 07 EXL. It also seems to only happen when it is cold out. the right sliding door operates smoothly and properly, but the indicator will come on or stay on showing the door is open when it is closed. As soon as it warms up the problem seems to stop. The switch in the pillar is not the problem, as I have tried swapping it with the other side and the light stays lit. The dealer wants to replace the motor assembly for about $1000. This is all fine if it will fix the problem, but from the sounds of it that may not be the issue. Anyone had a definitive fix to their problems above? Any info or insight would be appreciated.

 

[silvrsurfr]

New day, more info.

Note: My issue is identical to baddad310, SlowSnake, and naffpack above.

I spend yesterday ripping apart the right PSD and right rear interior panel to access the door motor. Everything appeared fine in both areas. I was still skeptical of it having anything to do with the motor or latching mechanism. I was still getting the door open indication. The VSA light was also on intermittently, and I found that the right PSD window would not go down, but you could hear the relay click as it was trying to do something when the button is pushed. I took a look for water around the MICU (fuse panel in the driver side foot well). There was no obvious indication of leaks, and nothing looked like it was or had been wet, but the area (air and carpet) felt very slightly moist and cool. I finally put everything back together as I had checked everything I could within my skills and knowledge.

This morning I took it to a local non-Honda shop that I know, and trust. The right PSD open light was still illuminated as was the VSA. We checked a bunch of things together and decided he would take it in the shop and look behind the MICU. BINGO!!!!!!! It was wet and the connections in the back were rusted and corroded on several of the plugs and the MICU. The MICU needs replacing and several of the plugs are damaged and will have to be replaced as well.

He can't find any indication of a window or other leak, but he is going to check the sunroof drain and other possible places. In the end it may be condensation, but we are going to try and rule out a leak first. He is going to shield the new panel from drips with plastic when he reinstalls it just in case.

As John Clark says above, it's the MICU. It has nothing to do with the door latch, motor, or door switch. In my opinion, BAD DESIGN!!!

I'll try to post the final outcome once it's fixed.

 

[linkarmy09]

Hello All,

I wanted to follow this thread and add my self to the list of people experiencing this issue. I will be checking the MICU to verify what you have found silvrsurfr.

 

[silvrsurfr]

Just a heads up, you literally had to take it off and look at the back to see or feel the issue. I will post some pictures when I get it back today or tomorrow. It was shocking to say the least. He even had to repair and replace a few of the plugs that connect to it because they had too much corrosion and rust. All this with no visible signs of leakage anywhere around that fuse panel (MICU).

 

[SVO LOU]

Just a heads up, you literally had to take it off and look at the back to see or feel the issue. I will post some pictures when I get it back today or tomorrow. It was shocking to say the least. He even had to repair and replace a few of the plugs that connect to it because they had too much corrosion and rust. All this with no visible signs of leakage anywhere around that fuse panel (MICU).

As luck would have it I've experienced the alarm-in-the-middle-of-the-night for the 2nd night in a row on my '10 Touring, never had it happen in my '05.
Will pull the MICU and take a gander when it warms up a little.
Thanks for the follow-up.

 

[silvrsurfr]

So here it is,

I had to replace the fuse panel (MICU) and two of the plugs due to rust and corrosion. What does that look like? Well the pictures below show clearly why I was having troubles. Having looked at some of the other posts about mysterious electrical issues and leaks I suspect a lot of people are having similar problems. I must reiterate that my leak was small, so small even with the panel removed you can not find any evidence what so ever of the leak other than the panel. It must have been just a few drops at a time falling directly on the panel. You had to take the panel off to see the problem as it was all on the back and inside. I took the old panel apart and it was quite a shock to see the damage inside.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone. Good luck, I'll be trading this vehicle away first thing in the spring.

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