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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. So on July 5th my 04 Odyssey had the check engine light on and AC and fan power seemed to be struggling. The SRS light and TCS came on.
I shut the van off and it would not start again. I had it jumped and took to dealer who tested and replaced the alternator. They said the battery was fine.
Van drove fine until today ..... same symptoms but now when we jump the van it won't stay on for long. The battery was at about 7 volts while running.
Interestingly for a few minutes after the jump it's fine. However, shortly there after all the lights come on and the Odometer goes away ... I get nothing when stepping on the gas, and cannot even put into gear .... it's like the engine was "on" put nothing else. Eventually it died again and stalled out. Tow truck taking to dealer since Alternator is under warranty IF that is even what it is. Not sure if it's a short somewhere or the battery was dying because of the problems from back in July.
Any thoughts ?
 

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The problem may be that the PCM is not signalling the alternator to charge. The electronically-controlled alternator is a fuel-saving feature. A bad ELD (electronic load detector) could cause this, but that's just a guess.

An intermittent electrical problem like this can be very difficult to locate. Hopefully it's solid now and the dealer will find it.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks Dave. The AAA guy who jumped it and got it started ran a test on the alternator and said "it's defective". He said it wasn't sending the proper charge to the battery. He also checked the fuses and seemed to think everything there looked fine. That being said, his tester is probably not as high tech as is the dealers. He was able to start the car but we still had it towed. By the time it go to the dealer it wouldn't start again. It's not "dead" but it just won't turn over without a jump. I agree with you .... electrical problems can be hard to diagnosis once they start. I hope it's the alternator as it would be under warranty however, it's hard to believe in this day and age that it would actually be a defective alternator. :/
One final note: The car ran "fine" in terms of engine and transmission even after the indicator lights started going crazy and the odometer when blank while driving (other than the fan seeming to be slower on the AC). However, once I shut it off it was over.
Thanks again.
 

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One final note: The car ran "fine" in terms of engine and transmission even after the indicator lights started going crazy and the odometer when blank while driving (other than the fan seeming to be slower on the AC). However, once I shut it off it was over.
Thanks again.
It's not unusual for the gauges and dash lights to act up when there is a battery/charging issue. I have never noticed it affecting a blower motor but it makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE: So dealer said it was a defective alternator and replaced it. (under warranty). They said when they took it off the van and ran a test on it that it was pretty much dead. I am surprised this would happen and hope it's not something more sinister. I asked them are they sure it's not a bad PCM or ELD that could have caused this.(per Dave's thoughts) They said unlikely since the alternator was dead upon an independent test outside of the van.
I HOPE that was it but as Dave mentioned ..... electrical problems can be difficult to locate. Time will tell.
I want to thank those who responded to my post.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE UPDATE !! DEAD AGAIN !!
DIDN'T EVEN GET THE VAN HOME when all the dash lights came on and no speedometer or gauges ...all died.
Called a tow guy. He put a battery pack on it to jump it and when he pulled the negative (black off) the van died again....almost immediately.
He says it's the alternator again ! I said that is 2 in 2 days. The one that was put in was an after market re-manufactured one. Still, hard to believe 2 in a row. THOUGHTS ?????
Note: I ask him if it could be a computer .... he says he doubts it.
 

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The tow truck driver is a professional ... tow truck driver.

He tows things. He jump starts cars. Changes flat tires. Etc.

He is probably no where near a mechanic or even an average odyclub reader in terms of what he knows about your car.

And as you can tell, the dealer is not exactly living up to expectations either.

Personally, I doubt you actually had a bad alternator and then two bad replacements in a row. I expect the dealer put in a Denso-remanufactured Denso, which should be practically as good as new. But a competent person with the car in front of them should be able to troubleshoot and fix pretty easily. Hopefully the dealer is extra embarassed by now and will put a good tech on the replacement.
 

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Though it seems unlikely that your second unit is bad, I have seen it before and some of those aftermarket units are pretty bad. I wouldn't dismiss the ELD or the PCM completely yet but I would wait and see what the dear says. They may want to do more testing now that a second one has failed.

Typically an issue with the ELD or PCM that would impact the alternator would also adversely affect the battery.
 

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Interesting. So both times, AAA and the tow driver, jumped the battery. And van ran. Then when disconnected it died. So, logically must be related to alternator (s).. Be sure and let us know how the story ends.
 

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Tell the "dealer" you only want a real Denso remanufactured alternator. As much as we all like to bitch about how expensive car repair is, sometimes when they try to save you money it's not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: Dealer said the 2nd alternator was dead as a door nail when they took it out. (apparently they ran some diagnostic tests on it and said it was dead on the bench). They apparently ran a bunch of other diagnostics on the van and said everything appears fine. (PCM, ground connections, etc). They did replace the battery which was under warranty even though they could not detect a "problem" with it. (it was a Honda battery put in January of 2018 so it was still fairly new). They admitted that it's odd that 2 died in row but not unheard off ... especially since the rest of the diagnostics on the van come back fine.
They told me they put their "best" tech on it and tested it "all day" .... (whatever that means).
They also told me that they have been in contact with their alternator supplier about this situation .... (um ok that's good I guess) .
The van drove fine home and to a few other places since. However, I'm still a bit "leary" moving forward.
I am to the point that if this happens again I might take it to my own mechanic and have him look at it instead.
That might put me out the cost of another alternator but they seem to be more "thorough".
I guess all I can do at this point is drive the van and hope I don't need another tow.
Again, I appreciate all the responses and will update you as conditions warrant.
(note: I apologize for my lack of mechanical knowledge ... that's why I come here. You all have been great !)
 

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Like I said previously, generally anything that would take out an alternator would also impact the battery so you are probably okay considering that they tested the rest of the system. Draining the battery repeatedly can damage it so replacing it was probably warranted. Hopefully, all is well now.
 

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And, as I said, you only want a real oem alternator. Denso is that manufacturer. If you can, post the part number and look at the alternator and see if there is a brand on it. What you experienced is not "unheard of" by folks around here who run down to the local auto parts store and put in whatever remanufactured alternator they hand them. It is especially important if doing this yourself as they are not that easy to remove and replace.
 

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Sounds like the dealer is doing well on the follow-up. Hopefully that is the solution.

Amazing and unfortunate that the rebuilt alternator market is filled with crap. I'm surprised though that the dealer got hit by that - you'd think they'd have their own supplier figured out and getting only the good stuff. I generally rebuild my alternators myself, and they tend to outlast the car, so I no longer have to deal with that sort of uncertainty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's the thing .... the uncertainty .... and I agree .... you'd think that their supplier would be consistently good.
The dealer has been good from the standpoint of not trying to say it's "something" else just yet.
They have been very consistent saying that "it's definately a bad alternator" . So on some level I have to think they are telling me the truth and seriously NOT finding anything. And other than the inconvienience, they have not charged me anything for the replacements. I am just wondering IF it happens again if I just bite the bullet and take it to my mechanic and have him work on it. The reason I didn't take it to him originally was because, ironically, the first time this happened (car acting up) I happened to be RIGHT by the Honda dealer so I took it there. FYI .... they charged me $777 back in July for the original replacement and labor.
Again, thanks for the responses. Not being a "car guy" I really do appreciate the advise and insight by all.
 

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Its good to expect another failure just to be ready. If they are using the same batch/stock of alternator then its highly possible that it can fail again. Try and see any branding on the new one they put in there. Been there done that with kragen alternator back in early 2000 for my 90 civic. I replaced a total of 4 alt in the span of 2 years and I was getting it from different stores. The 4th was a different brand- when they finally changed their supplier and that was a good one. On the 2nd or 3rd alt, it burnt my turn signal stick. Anyways, dealer only gives 1 year / 12K warranty on their work so you can keep swapping alternator until then should it fail again. After, get it from a much cheaper place with lifetime warranty. It would have been nice to have your old original alternator. Its always a good habit to get your old part back to see for yourself the obvious failure point or keep it if you suspect its still good. I have successfully rebuilt my old denso alt and has been running great since--3+ years now. From the bearings to the rectifier, voltage regulator and the brushes. Better luck.
 

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I am just wondering IF it happens again if I just bite the bullet and take it to my mechanic and have him work on it.
The dealer is standing by their work and product, so I see no need at this time to go back to square one with a new shop.

If they didn't charge the dead old battery after replacing alternators #1 and #2, that could have literally fried them by overloading them causing overheating.

That would have also been tough on the old battery by pushing a 130A charge into it. A slow charge from dead will prolong the battery's life. In my experience, most shops replace the alternator, then jump the battery to get the engine running, then let the new alternator charge it up. This saves time.

Dave
 

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And, as I said, you only want a real oem alternator. Denso is that manufacturer. If you can, post the part number and look at the alternator and see if there is a brand on it. What you experienced is not "unheard of" by folks around here who run down to the local auto parts store and put in whatever remanufactured alternator they hand them. It is especially important if doing this yourself as they are not that easy to remove and replace.
Well said, egads

Don't use anything but Denso. I, too was burned by a white-labeled, aftermarket alternator once. They are absolute garbage.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Agree, Denso is the way to go.

OP paid $777 for the alternator including installation at the dealer. That's about what a reman Denso would cost. (Giving the dealer the benefit of the doubt here that they didn't charge a Denso price for an aftermarket alternator.)

@Stevekoir, what does your invoice list for parts? Reman Denso part # is 06311-PGK-505RM , list price $483.

Dave
 
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