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Discussion Starter #1
(assuming it had not been muzzled and had only recommended service at recommended Honda mm intervals).


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Based on posts here some are having ring issues as soon as 60K miles, so I'd probably stay in the 50K miles or less range, but that brings in a whole other issue. IMO late model Hondas and Toyotas with less than 50K on them rarely make sense compared to new when you calculate the expected cost per mile of ownership. Because 3 year old cars can still be financed for 5 or even 6 years those cars sell for too much because they can provide a payment that is $100 a month or more less than brand new which is what drives the market. Your question isn't easily answered.
 

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Based on posts here some are having ring issues as soon as 60K miles, so I'd probably stay in the 50K miles or less range, but that brings in a whole other issue. IMO late model Hondas and Toyotas with less than 50K on them rarely make sense compared to new when you calculate the expected cost per mile of ownership. Because 3 year old cars can still be financed for 5 or even 6 years those cars sell for too much because they can provide a payment that is $100 a month or more less than brand new which is what drives the market. Your question isn't easily answered.
Couldn’t have said it better myself. I personally wouldn’t want to buy one with more than 3 years/36k, but how much am I saving? Would I be better off getting a brand new car? I don’t think the 30k Scheduled ATF change is frequent enough so I’d be hesitant to get one with more than about that amount of mileage. I’d also want some of the 5 year 60k powertrain left. Over 60k and out of warranty=too much risk for me with the VCM issues and ATF degradation I’ve seen here.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Couldn’t have said it better myself. I personally wouldn’t want to buy one with more than 3 years/36k, but how much am I saving? Would I be better off getting a brand new car? I don’t think the 30k Scheduled ATF change is frequent enough so I’d be hesitant to get one with more than about that amount of mileage. I’d also want some of the 5 year 60k powertrain left. Over 60k and out of warranty=too much risk for me with the VCM issues and ATF degradation I’ve seen here.
Yeah, this is pretty much the direction my thinking has gone, ie too much risk over 36k/might be better off getting new if I’m going for something under 36k. The issue I’m left with is that the 5th gen doesn’t appear reliable enough to warrant spending north of $40k.

Might be time to switch brands and/or switch to an SUV.


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Just for grins and giggles, I looked up the going rate for used Odyssey’s at my local no haggle dealership. Holy cow these things can go for a premium. 2016 EX-L with 18k miles, no haggle price of $27,800. I didn’t pay much more than that for my 2017 SE when new. frustrating for a used buyer : /

I don’t know what I’d get otherwise. The Mazda CX-9 with a turbo looks pretty nice. Pricey but reliable.
 

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I'm asking myself the same question right now, as I'm trying to run the numbers and see what makes sense. We've had decent luck with our '05 Odyssey EX (that didn't have VCM), but the '11-17s concern me. The class action warranty extension seems to only cover through the '13 model year, is there anything for the subsequent years?

We're looking for this purchase to last us another 10 years, so although having a HondaCare warranty would help lower the risk, the VCM issues are big enough to have us cross shopping with Siennas, or consider holding out and keeping our existing Odyssey going a while longer.

I've personally settled on the 36k mileage as a reasonable cut-off, partially based on the ability to get a HondaCare extended warranty until 36k. I've had dealers tell me they could get me a HondaCare warranty after 36K as long as the car is a CPO (I'm looking at '16s), but I haven't been able to confirm that with another source.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm asking myself the same question right now, as I'm trying to run the numbers and see what makes sense. We've had decent luck with our '05 Odyssey EX (that didn't have VCM), but the '11-17s concern me. The class action warranty extension seems to only cover through the '13 model year, is there anything for the subsequent years?

We're looking for this purchase to last us another 10 years, so although having a HondaCare warranty would help lower the risk, the VCM issues are big enough to have us cross shopping with Siennas, or consider holding out and keeping our existing Odyssey going a while longer.

I've personally settled on the 36k mileage as a reasonable cut-off, partially based on the ability to get a HondaCare extended warranty until 36k. I've had dealers tell me they could get me a HondaCare warranty after 36K as long as the car is a CPO (I'm looking at '16s), but I haven't been able to confirm that with another source.
I, too started to think Sienna...then I found out they earned some crappy crash test results from IIHS.


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I'm asking myself the same question right now, as I'm trying to run the numbers and see what makes sense. We've had decent luck with our '05 Odyssey EX (that didn't have VCM), but the '11-17s concern me. The class action warranty extension seems to only cover through the '13 model year, is there anything for the subsequent years?
Not officially, though some of the stories about 2014-2017 Odys coming out with the same VCM problems as before are showing that dealers and Honda are being somewhat supportive about warrantying some of the repair (though not as much as they should be, if you ask me).

That is what makes disabling VCM critically important in these model years. If you muzzle immediately, any bad stuff that might be starting to happen stops getting worse immediately (and could even reverse itself if the damage is minor) . So if you buy a low mileage example and disable VCM immediately upon delivery, nothing bad is going to happen in the future. VCM becomes a total non-issue.

The 2014-2017 Odysseys are the best sorted out versions of this generation. VCM is easily handled, and more frequent ATF changes are super easy and super effective in keeping the transmission healthy. The electronics may be dated but work reliably, and the crash test results are far superior to the Sienna.
 

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The mid-cycle refresh, starting with the 2014 model does not have the stupid low friction piston rings. Like CroMath says, some of those have shown issues that could be traced to VCM. But I don't think the damage is assured in those models. If buying a higher mileage one younger than 2014, just check the condition of the plugs. (and maybe look at the service history re: trans fluid changes)

But clean low mileage used cars are expensive. There are very few private sales and dealers are all within $500. of each other on price. I think the few low balls are done to drive folks to the dealership. And the person actually buying the low ball is going to have a harrowing time in finance with high pressure add ons. We just bought an Acura RDX and it took hours to say no to everything.
 

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We bought ours with 125k. 2012 exl res. Apparently po had the ring issue, dealer replaced 3 sets of rings, timing belt water pump rear shocks on trade in.

It’s been pretty good. Needed new rear tailgate arm and the power steering groans and the right strut creaked but the shin Etsu grease fixed that.

I suspect it needs new motor mounts but haven’t checked. That’s the next to check out.


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IF the rings have been recently replaced on your '12 EXL, MUZZLE that sucker now so you don't have to deal with this again. Check the trans fluid, normally they'd update this too but be sure it's clean and stay on top of this, maybe you have records for that indicate how often it was refreshed if not then be sure you're keeping it up to date.

Good luck!
 

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IF the rings have been recently replaced on your '12 EXL, MUZZLE that sucker now so you don't have to deal with this again. Check the trans fluid, normally they'd update this too but be sure it's clean and stay on top of this, maybe you have records for that indicate how often it was refreshed if not then be sure you're keeping it up to date.

Good luck!
+1 on installing a VCM disable device. If the previous owner had the rings replaced, your van is ineligible for any further repairs through Honda. That service is tied to the VIN so any Honda dealer will know that it's been paid for once. The next re-ring will be on your dime.

A hundred bucks for a muzzler or $2500 to get the rings done? Seems like an easy choice.
 

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IF the rings have been recently replaced on your '12 EXL, MUZZLE that sucker now so you don't have to deal with this again. Check the trans fluid, normally they'd update this too but be sure it's clean and stay on top of this, maybe you have records for that indicate how often it was refreshed if not then be sure you're keeping it up to date.

Good luck!
Yeah muzzled it right away with a vcm tuner 2. Trans fluid was changed as they had replaced an axle. I did a drain and fill at my first oil change, and the dealer provided me all the records that they had.


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Can ya'll elaborate on what ya'll mean with the VCM issues or other issues? My wife and I are currently looking at vans and are trying to figure out how old/how many miles we're willing to go in order to not have to pay through the nose for a monthly payment. We have a '13 Fit currently with 110,000 miles and I'd like to not clump them too close together and run into expensive maintenance issues at the same time...
 

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The 2011 up odyssey vcm kills the engines. The tranny is sensitive and needs more frequent oil changes. Those are the major ones.


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Can ya'll elaborate on what ya'll mean with the VCM issues or other issues? My wife and I are currently looking at vans and are trying to figure out how old/how many miles we're willing to go in order to not have to pay through the nose for a monthly payment. We have a '13 Fit currently with 110,000 miles and I'd like to not clump them too close together and run into expensive maintenance issues at the same time...

See this thread....

Just dig through the VCM ECO-Mode Muzzler threads here and you'll see what we're talking about. The above today's example of yet another VCM failure and the related fall out, on a '16 model with 52k miles! The longer the VCM system has been running, the more chance for damage up to the point you may have rebuild the engine. Others run their vans with the VCM on for many, many miles and claim to have no issues; but I would submit IF you dug into their engines I'm sure you'd find problems (they just might not be at a level yet that causes failure). Just my opinion...

Easily solved, buy a Muzzler and shut this inept system off. Your Odyssey then runs on all six cylinders, all the time, like almost every other car on the planet since the dawn of time! The VCM wears the engine mounts out prematurely, carbon build up in the engine, plug fowling, ring damage, wear and tear on the transmission (kicking in and out), etc. Our VCM would kick in and the van would "shudder," which probably says our engine mounts are beat up and someday will have to be replaced; arrghh!

And if you're looking "used" then get a lower mileage Odyssey so you can install a Muzzle right away. Or look at Sienna's... o_O ;)
 
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