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I recently changed out all the front/rear speakers in my 2019 EX-L with what were the best rated Crutchfield speakers with the highest 90+ sensitivity (since I wasn't going to change out the low-wattage factory head unit). I did *not* change the subwoofer or add an amp.

I have to say the final result is underwhelming, although my mind could absolutely be playing tricks on me because there is no objective way for me to know.

I read a lot on this and other Honda forums how the ANC might try to cancel out any non-OEM speakers because it's not tuned for it, but again, no one seems to have any hard facts besides anecdotes. Is there any sense of whether that plays any role in aftermarket speaker upgrades? If so, wouldn't Honda actively advise against it?
 

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I don’t have a definitive answer for you, but I did find another post on the forum titled “2011 Honda Odyssey Subwoofer options” (sorry, the system flags my post as spam if I include the actual link)

w w w . odyclub.com/threads/2011-honda-odyssey-subwoofer-options.128756/

Essentially, it sounds like the aftermarket head unit caused the noise cancellation system to act up and they fixed it by disconnecting the microphones to deactivate it.
 

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I recently changed out all the front/rear speakers in my 2019 EX-L with what were the best rated Crutchfield speakers with the highest 90+ sensitivity (since I wasn't going to change out the low-wattage factory head unit). I did not change the subwoofer or add an amp.

I have to say the final result is underwhelming, although my mind could absolutely be playing tricks on me because there is no objective way for me to know.

I read a lot on this and other Honda forums how the ANC might try to cancel out any non-OEM speakers because it's not tuned for it, but again, no one seems to have any hard facts besides anecdotes. Is there any sense of whether that plays any role in aftermarket speaker upgrades? If so, wouldn't Honda actively advise against it?
It sounds like you know what the issue may be when you mention 90+ sensitivity. If you had the full specs from both aftermarket and oem speakers an even more useful spec appears- MM or moving mass.
I used to install car audio professionally and saw that often, customers installing better speakers in otherwise factory systems.
The problem is the oem head unit just puts out so little power, around 4 watts RMS, that none of the replacement speakers are driven with the power they were designed to operate with. Conversely the oem speakers are optimized for that measly power and thus only have enough cone and voice coil to withstand that. So they take less power to get a specific sound level out of them.
 
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