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I recently was struck with the worst bout of bad luck in recent memory. I actually had 4 wheel studs snap when trying to remove the lug nuts to put on my summer wheels/tires. The only thing I can think of is some of the lug nuts must have come loose at some point during the winter and the studs took a lot of impact from the wheel. I've never seen anything like it.

I did some research on this site and others and the general consensus to replace wheel studs was to obviously remove the hub but also that you need to disengage the tie rod, control arm etc. use a hydraulic press the whole nine yards. Basically a very long cumbersome process that most people would steer (no pun intended) away from.

After talking with some Honda mechanics I learned a different technique that worked great for me. Remove the 36mm nut in the center of the hub. Using a slide hammer with a hub adapter bolted down to at least 2 of the wheel studs (luckily I had one snap off but still leave me enough to thread a lug nut onto) you can just pull it off with some elbow grease. Mine took about 30 pulls on the slide hammer to come off. Not bad as I heard from the Honda mechanic that he's worked on some upwards of 30 minutes with a slide hammer. Once off I was able to fasten jig to support the hub and punch out the old studs and put in all new ones. I put the hub back on, using a block of wood and a mini-sledge I was able to get the hub back in just a tad, enough to thread the 36mm nut back on, then when torquing that back on it will actually reseat the hub nice and evenly for you. Now I'm back up and running like new, new studs and lugnuts. I also took the oppurtunity to put on new rotors and pads. BRAKES GALORE.

FYI - You can rent/borrow slide hammers at AutoZone for free with a $20 refundable deposit. Including the hub adapter for a $15 refundable deposit.



 

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2000LX_VT said:
I recently was struck with the worst bout of bad luck in recent memory. I actually had 4 wheel studs snap when trying to remove the lug nuts to put on my summer wheels/tires. The only thing I can think of is some of the lug nuts must have come loose at some point during the winter and the studs took a lot of impact from the wheel. I've never seen anything like it.

I did some research on this site and others and the general consensus to replace wheel studs was to obviously remove the hub but also that you need to disengage the tie rod, control arm etc. use a hydraulic press the whole nine yards. Basically a very long cumbersome process that most people would steer (no pun intended) away from.

After talking with some Honda mechanics I learned a different technique that worked great for me. Remove the 36mm nut in the center of the hub. Using a slide hammer with a hub adapter bolted down to at least 2 of the wheel studs (luckily I had one snap off but still leave me enough to thread a lug nut onto) you can just pull it off with some elbow grease. Mine took about 30 pulls on the slide hammer to come off. Not bad as I heard from the Honda mechanic that he's worked on some upwards of 30 minutes with a slide hammer. Once off I was able to fasten jig to support the hub and punch out the old studs and put in all new ones. I put the hub back on, using a block of wood and a mini-sledge I was able to get the hub back in just a tad, enough to thread the 36mm nut back on, then when torquing that back on it will actually reseat the hub nice and evenly for you. Now I'm back up and running like new, new studs and lugnuts. I also took the oppurtunity to put on new rotors and pads. BRAKES GALORE.

FYI - You can rent/borrow slide hammers at AutoZone for free with a $20 refundable deposit. Including the hub adapter for a $15 refundable deposit.
Two diff designs pros and cons:

1. Honda with studs coming out of the hub (wheels held by nuts).
* If cross-threading or broken stud:
* Hub does not have to be changed but the labor for stud removal is significant:
http://www.mfavp.com/wheelstud/index.htm
(in this case hub removal was not necessary, this depends on the vehicle)

2. In my Volvo V70, the wheel is held by 5 bolts, the hub has 5 holes with grooves in it.
* If cross-threading : replace hub
* if broken stud, drill out old stud, hub can stay.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php

Every design has its own problems.
Glad you fixed yours.

This is why even for tire rotation, I speak to the service managers to ensure these kids do not use an air wrench during installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think an air wrench might have contributed somewhat to the demise of my studs. I bought new winter tires this year and I neglected to request they not use one. Not sure if they did or didn't, I'm assuming they did. It's nice to have it all back together and operational though, my Ody was out of commission for 4 days while I worked on it about 2-3 hours/night. Forced to drive my gas-guzzling Jeep Grand Cherokee.
 

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When at tire shop

2000LX_VT said:
I think an air wrench might have contributed somewhat to the demise of my studs. I bought new winter tires this year and I neglected to request they not use one. Not sure if they did or didn't, I'm assuming they did. It's nice to have it all back together and operational though, my Ody was out of commission for 4 days while I worked on it about 2-3 hours/night. Forced to drive my gas-guzzling Jeep Grand Cherokee.
other than dealer. These are:
Costco
Samsclub
NTB
Firestone
etc and etc.

Always insists to speak with service manager and tell them you do not want broken stud. Removal with air wrench is OK but for INSTALLATION, insist that they
- tighten by finger
- then Torque wrench by hand! No air tool here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sure, no prob. I get so much technical advice from you guys, I always want to return the favor whenever possible. I was pretty scared of the process after reading some of the posts from folks that had done the hub removal. To do it, and easier than described, got me excited.
 

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Re: When at tire shop

Always insists to speak with service manager and tell them you do not want broken stud. Removal with air wrench is OK but for INSTALLATION, insist that they
- tighten by finger
- then Torque wrench by hand! No air tool here.
Do you actually think this is gonna happen? They call them monkey wrenches for a reason.
 

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Does anyone have an archive of these pictures? I'm about to embark on this same task, and it would be nice to know what the "jig" looks like to support the hub while knocking the lugs out!
 

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Doh

A buddy of mine was starting a web hosting company and had massive amounts of publically addressed server space for me to host my site on. Recently he went belly up on that venture and I lost my space. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll get those pics to you.
 

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Actually, your text explaination worked just fine!

I got it all apart with the slide hammer ($150 deposit at Advance), but it only took about 10 hits and the hub fell out.

I punched out the broken lugs, put the new ones in, and I'm putting the brakes on now!

Thanks for the explaination. You probably saved me $200 bucks at the shop, and they would have probably broken more lugs in the process!
 

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There was a guy on this board a few years ago who had a wheel come off when ALL FIVE of his wheel studs sheared off. There was a great debate about the cause and I do not recall that it was ever solved. All one can do is to be sure wheels are installed with a torque wrench and that the torque is checked periodically (it only takes a few minutes and I do it at least before road trips). It has been my experience that if wheel nuts are going to loosen that it will be the ones on the drive wheels first.

Jerry O.
 

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re stud R&R

I too had a stud broken so I took it in to the dealer and the way the tech did the job made me upset for a WHILE as he cutoff a piece of Circular "Panel" and shaved the hub ever so slightly so as to facilitate removal and replacement of the stud. I figure now that should another break off replacement should be a snap for me!
 

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Paul, Can you provide me more details on cutting a piece of the Circular Panel and shaving the hub? I broke a stud this weekend while I was doing a brake job.

It was a long day and a late night with a new torque wrench and I read the 108 nm as 180nm. Anyway, I never claimed to be very bright.

Thanks,
Chris D.
 

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Hey ccdavis,

I can't speak for your particular situation, but once I figured out what was going on, it really was a pretty quick change. With the tools in hand, I could do it now in less than an hour, and I'm not a natural with a wrench.

Just get the slide hammer and pull the hub out. No cutting or permanent damage to your drivetrain. :)

Though, if you've already tried this and are having problems, then carry on!
 

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Andy, Can you forward me the pics from your original post? I am hesitant to separate the hub from the bearing.
 

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I never got the pictures, but this was actually one of the easiest jobs I've done on this car. :)

Just pull the Rotor off, remove the knucle, attach the slide hammer, and yank it out.

Then you can take the the hub to a vice or other rig to knock the lugs out and screw the new ones on. It really was much simpler than I expected!

** Clarification: To remove the knucle, I had to put the wheel on and set the car down. It was the only way I was able to get enough torque on it. Also had to go buy a cheater pipe, as it really was on there good.
 

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I too just broke a stud, and am considering this job. I'm a visual guy, so a picture sure would help if you're still around 2000LX_VT or any one else.

From the initial post it looks like the simplified removal steps are as follows after removing the wheel:
1 - Remove 36mm spindle nut in center of hub
2 - attach slide hammer via hub adapter and pull hub away from rotor (10+ swings)
3 - Put removed hub in jig and press out studs

Seems way too simplified relative to other Odyssey hub removal steps (i.e remove ball joint, etc).

Does the caliper need to be moved out of the way? Rotor removed?

Mines on the front passenger side

Thanks for any help.
 

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For those interested, I'll reply to my own post.

I did this job last night and easily saw what needed to be done once I had the wheel off. Here are the steps:

1 - Loosen 36mm spindle nut in center of hub with the tire still on the ground
2 - Raise car - remove tire
3 - Remove caliper from disc, remove brake hose clamp connecting it to strut housing, and hang caliper out of the way (no need to disconnect brake line)
4 - remove caliper bracket (2 bolts on back near dust shroud)
5 - remove 2 phillips screws connecting disc to hub and remove disc
6 - Remove spindle bolt and attach slide hammer to hub and pull hub away (~ 10 swings)
7 - Put removed hub in jig and press out studs
8 - reattach all

The book calls for new spindle nut once original is removed. This is a $5.00 part and I'm glad I had a new one.

Instead of beating the hub back together with a block and mini-sledge, I flipped the new spindle bolt around (thin side towards axel) and turned it a couple times once snug. This allowed the hub to seat together enough for me to then take the spindle bolt back off and put it on the correct way (wider flange towards axel now) with enough axel threads for the 36 mm bolt to catch. I then just tightened the spindle bolt to seat the hub together. It went togeher nicely.

Last step was to replace all lug nuts. My stud broke when the Costco guys were backing it off (actually they left it stuck half way and let me twist it off to break). A second lug tightened up after loosening from the wheel and just before it was removed from the stud. The lug showed some striped threads, so I'm guessing the lugs were excessively tightened earlier in life.

I have some pictures if any are interested. I will attempt to post them when I get a higher uplink connection
 

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All 5 studs broke off

Using a slide hammer and hub puller worked out great. I had the unfortunate luck of busting all 5 wheel studs after my wife drove on a flat tire for about a mile or so.

The deal was that I couldn't get the lug nuts over the hub puller because I had less than 0.5 inches left on each stud. I was getting ready to disconnect the tie rod, idler arm ,etc. then I got an idea.

I bought some open (regular, old fashion lug nuts and bolted them on three broken studs. I turned them so that about a quarter of an inch on each lug was still available from the top. I then placed the hub puller over the lug nuts and screwed my new studs through the hub puller and into the open lug nuts (kind of up-side-down). Worked like a dream. 25 blows with the slide hammer and that hub was off.

Hope this may help someone else who may be in that type of situation. :p
 
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