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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My power steering pump started the whine a few months ago immediately after replacing the timing belt and all including a new accessory belt. I just replaced the o-rings this weekend and darn if it didn't reduce the noise. Really, it's only loud when I first start up the car and goes away after a while, but still. I'm certain its the PSP. Just curious if these pumps die slowly or if they go fast? And if'n'when it needs replaced is OE recommended or would a RockAuto.Com pump (Cardone) be sufficient? Probably want to flush the fluid before replacing if I go that far and if so should I stick with Honda PSP fluid? Tnanks.
 

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Have you checked the lines going to the rack? You could also rebuild the entire pump with new seals/bearings if you are willing to but it’s a little tedious.

If scars are present on the surface where the vane spins on, the pump is pretty much considered trash.
 

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My power steering pump started the whine a few months ago immediately after replacing the timing belt and all including a new accessory belt. I just replaced the o-rings this weekend and darn if it didn't reduce the noise. Really, it's only loud when I first start up the car and goes away after a while, but still. I'm certain its the PSP. Just curious if these pumps die slowly or if they go fast? And if'n'when it needs replaced is OE recommended or would a RockAuto.Com pump (Cardone) be sufficient? Probably want to flush the fluid before replacing if I go that far and if so should I stick with Honda PSP fluid? Tnanks.
was there any cavitation from the pump at startup after the job?
the honda pumps are fairly unforgiving if they run dry for a second.

My gen 2 ody, after changing the high pressure hose, instead of working the wheels back and forth before starting after the job, I fired it up and boom a noisy pump.

I put lucas and maxlife atf in it to quiet it down, but eventually the groan and poor boost at cold start was too much and had to change it out.
 

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My power steering pump started the whine a few months ago immediately after replacing the timing belt and all including a new accessory belt. I just replaced the o-rings this weekend and darn if it didn't reduce the noise. Really, it's only loud when I first start up the car and goes away after a while, but still. I'm certain its the PSP. Just curious if these pumps die slowly or if they go fast? And if'n'when it needs replaced is OE recommended or would a RockAuto.Com pump (Cardone) be sufficient? Probably want to flush the fluid before replacing if I go that far and if so should I stick with Honda PSP fluid? Tnanks.
Replace the power steering reservoir. The screen gets clogged up with debris.
I literally just replaced ours, the PS pump is ultra quiet now.
Before you drop big bucks, replace with a oem reservoir, 30bux.
Easy to swap our. The honda system is self bleeding.
Once your lines are all back on, overfill the reservoir and let the engine idle for 5 mins or so, then take it for a spin.
Fingers crossed

Also I have not replaced our ps gaskets on our 2015.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the ideas guys. If the pump cavitated after TB job at first startup it certainly wasn't obvious, so I have to say no cavitation. Unfortunately at this time a new reservoir is unavailable at RockAuto, so this weekend I just may remove and try to clean the reservoir. And flush the fluid soon. Then Lucas if need be.
 

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Thanks for the ideas guys. If the pump cavitated after TB job at first startup it certainly wasn't obvious, so I have to say no cavitation. Unfortunately at this time a new reservoir is unavailable at RockAuto, so this weekend I just may remove and try to clean the reservoir. And flush the fluid soon. Then Lucas if need be.
The oem from Honda is quite cheap.
I'm not sure it can be cleaned easily. The screen is way down in there.
 

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Replace the power steering reservoir
This

Don't waste time cleaning. You can't.
Just spend $30 and get a new reservoir and cap.
And if possible flush system too during process..

Reservoir;
53701-TK8-A01

May need cap too; True on the 3rd gen.
 

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My power steering pump started the whine a few months ago immediately after replacing the timing belt
The TB job involves moving the PS pump around. That can create a leak in the short hose from the reservoir at the pump fitting. The hose gets hard with time and heat.

It's under negative pressure, so fluid won't leak out, but air may enter and cause a noisy pump.

Lists for $23, less online.
Tube, Suction
53731-TK8-A00
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Anyone know if the PS fluid flush method (engine off, tires off ground, turn steering) in this video can be done with the Ody?

FLUSH POWER STEERING FLUID

Another question, I have on order the reservoir and suction tube, and watching flush videos last night they use the old reservoir when flushing then replaced the reservoir after the flush. What benefit is it to do the flush with the old reservoir as opposed to flush with the new reservoir?
 

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Anyone know if the PS fluid flush method (engine off, tires off ground, turn steering) in this video can be done with the Ody?

FLUSH POWER STEERING FLUID
I didn't watch the whole video, but that's basically how I did it. I disconnected the PS line down below the transmission (runs along the subframe) at the lowest point to get as much fluid out as possible - also keeps spills from higher up in the engine bay. Refill and run steering back and forth with engine off to get the pump lubed up before starting again.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Refill and run steering back and forth with engine off to get the pump lubed up before starting again.
-Charlie
Like priming the pump? So you plugged the effluent line prior, or placed the hose back on prior to priming?...and then unplugged/removed hose when ready for another purge session?
 

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Like priming the pump? So you plugged the effluent line prior, or placed the hose back on prior to priming?...and then unplugged/removed hose when ready for another purge session?
You should only need to 'purge' once.

  • Disconnect line in location of choice (if you do it at the 'bottom' of the system, you don't even need to plug one of the lines, both can drain into the same pan)
  • Drain fluid
  • Turn wheels back and forth to use the rack to 'pump' fluid out of the system (go slowly, it will shoot out!)
  • Close system back up
  • Refill reservoir
  • Turn wheels back and forth (engine off!) to use the rack to suck fluid into pump
  • Refill reservoir
  • Repeat
  • Start engine, turn wheels back and forth to the stops, stop engine
  • Refill reservoir
  • repeat as necessary (wait for any bubbles to dissapate between rounds)

That will get nearly all the fluid and never run the pump while dry. This is basically the procedure I use for all the hydraulic PS systems I own, and should work just fine with the extra sensitive Honda PS pump.

-Charlie
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Charlie...and everyone else. I'm going to purge the fluid first, replace the reservoir and tube, then start the refill process. Hopefully the tank and hose will come in today so I can flush this weekend. 🤞
 

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Thanks Charlie...and everyone else. I'm going to purge the fluid first, replace the reservoir and tube, then start the refill process. Hopefully the tank and hose will come in today so I can flush this weekend. 🤞
I just did this a few days ago on my 2011 LX (also did oil + filter, ATF, AT magnefine filter, after my wife returned from a 400 mile drive). In case it helps ...
I do this, with Genuine Honda PSF about every 30k miles. Takes up to 3x 12oz bottles.
I did not replace the reservoir (never have on any car) - you should never ever use gasoline as a solvent for a number of very good environmental and safety reasons, but just in case some gets in your PSF reservoir, it will certainly clean it and leave it like new. Just saying. Also keeps your money in your wallet and plastic out of the land fill.
I had the car jacked on jack stands (mostly due to the other work, but helps with the steering left-right cycling)
Used my 7-liter mityvac suction thing to suck out the reservoir
Then with my son cycling the steering back and forth (key in to disable steering lock, but of course engine never runs until all finished), more fluid would enter the reservoir to be sucked out.
When no more fluid was coming out while steering, disconnected hoses (put a paper towel down below to catch anything, but no leak at all), removed reservoir.
Gasoline in reservoir to dissolve and clean like new. Washed out with soap and water. Rinsed with water. Set in sun to dry completely while doing all the other work.
Reinstall, fill, steering back and forth until no more can be poured in.
Start engine, steering back and forth, top up. Done.

I surely could have got a little more of the old fluid out by disconnecting something below, but for me, doing it at this 30k interval, it is easy, cheap, and keeps the fluid very clean.

As I do with the Magnefine on the ATF, I put one on the PSF many years ago (same exact filter). Magnefine confirmed it would be fine and that a 50k mile change interval would be fine. I changed it at about 50k after installing, opened the old one up and found it to be almost perfectly clean (and nothing at all on the magnet), so I have since extended the Magnefine PSF change interval to 500k miles.

The whole PS system on my '99 EX was still original and probably the best thing on that car when I sold it at ~240k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Last weekend I flushed the PS fluid and replaced the reservoir. I put the front end up on jack stands and got under but couldn't for the life of me find anywhere below to disconnect. So I pulled what fluid I could out of the old reservoir, placed the return line in 20oz Gatoraid bottle(s) that sat well and fit under the reservoir, replaced the reservoir with the new one and put on new suction line to pump, topped with new fluid and turned the steering back and forth while topping with fluid. Overall the process went smoothly. However it did not fix the whine. Now, the whine only occurs when I first start the car when the pump is cold and doesn't make such a racket when warmed up or starting the car again after it is warm.

I may grab another pump at a salvage yard before this year is over and swap just because. I guess you can get a seal kit and rebuild them too. But for now I'm just writing it off as normal 155,000mi wear.

And when I wrote that the whine seemed to appear after the timing belt was done it should be mentioned that I had a heck of a time getting the new accessory belt on and had to have my buddy assist...always wondered if there is a connection. I don't believe that, if it did indeed cavitate, that it was starved long enough to cause damage. I think the pump is just reaching it's shelf life and it's starting to show by the whine when cold. Thanks all for everyone's input.
 

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I put the front end up on jack stands and got under but couldn't for the life of me find anywhere below to disconnect.
The return line from the rack is on the driver's side of the bay underneath, clipped to the subframe. If there is a next time, just look at the lines at where they go in/out of the rack at the steering shaft. It goes forward, then around the core support to the PS 'cooler' in front of the radiator. You did just fine with what you did.

-Charlie
 
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