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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks folks. Was trying to locate the causes of parasitic drain that was measured close to be 1A. Was suspecting ABS modules as I got ABS light consistently on recently. But it was isolated to two fuses, #5 and #7. #7 has been well discussed here. #5 radio was also mentioned more than a few times.
 

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Did you resolve the parasitic drain? The two most common causes are a bad AC clutch relay and a bad side door rear latch module.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for asking. Not yet. I also got ABS light on issue. Not sure if it is related to the drain problem. Thanks for the link, which verifies what I found out. No fuses/relays were labeled with "ABS". Did find two fuses #17, #18 under hood for VSA and VSA motor. Are they for ABS too?

I was also trying to pull ABS code manually, short #4 and #9 (not #5 and #9, right?). I will open another post for the ABS issue but here is the information I got.
First all, the codes are not so consistent.
The first time, I got
1-5, 1-6, 2-6 (then the ABS light stops flashing).
The second time, I got
1-5, 1-6, 2-6, 6-1, 6-6, 8-4
The third time, I got nothing as ABS light is on all the time without flashing.

I tried a few more times. the longest stretch of codes that I can get so far is like the second time above. Other times, it is either no code, always on, or stop flashing after giving out some codes.

I am trying to interpret the code. Does the code mean differently between different generations of Odyssey? Do we have codes listed somewhere specific for 2005-2010 generation. I found one listed for 1995-1998 but doesn't seem right for the 2007 odyssey that I have. For example, it doesn't have 1-5, 1-6, 2-6 6-6.
 

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ABS and VSA work in conjunction.

IF ABS/VSA lights does not go off when you start the car then you should go through the "troubleshooting" steps:
162562

162563

162564


VSA modulator Unit:
162565

162566

Location of VSA modulator:
162567
 

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BTW, Fuses involved with ABS/VSA are:
Under hood:
No. 22, 23 (goes to ignition switch and then off to Driver's side fuse box fuse #18)
No. 17,18 (goes to VSA module)
No. 13 (goes to Brake Pedal Position Switch)

Driver's side Under dash fuse box
No. 18 (goes to VSA module)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the detailed trouble shooting instructions. Off go to check the fuse first. The no. 18 is IGACG and I was thinking about the one under the hood. Thank you for the follow up otherwise I would have been pulling the wrong fuse:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
BTW, Fuses involved with ABS/VSA are:
Under hood:
No. 22, 23 (goes to ignition switch and then off to Driver's side fuse box fuse #18)
No. 17,18 (goes to VSA module)
No. 13 (goes to Brake Pedal Position Switch)

Driver's side Under dash fuse box
No. 18 (goes to VSA module)
Thanks again. Tested the fuses and they are good. Sometimes when I am about to start the van, I heard some noise not exactly but at best close to some whining/bubbling sound, from the vague direction of the dash (can't tell if it comes underhood or not but in the general direction from the behind of the dash, driver side). I only started noticing these kind of weird noises a few months ago when the van was severely discharged and couldn't get started. They were not the cranking noise that I am familiar with. The key was at the on position before moving to the ignition. If I can recall clearly, the first time when the noise came, I felt it came from the underhood toward the center. But later when I heard of them, they came more from behind the dash. Once recently I even felt it came from the direction of the center radio/AC control dash area (with the radio fuse already pulled). Maybe just my inferior ears hard to get fingers on the locations:) But anyhow these noise all came when the key is at the "on" position and before I turned the key to the ignition. They are not the cranking noise. The first time I noticed that, after turning the key to ignition, I then heard the weak cranking and later I had to jump it. Not sure if these have anything to do with my ongoing ABS errors and parasitic drain. The time line is,
i. starting early 2020, ABS light came on occasionally but mostly good.
ii. middle 2020, the old battery was dead (due to covid-19 no driving for a long while). It was replaced with a new fresh battery. ABS was most off and occasionally on through 2020
iii. then a few months ago Spring 2021, ABS starts being permanently on.
iv. roughly the same time, a few days later with ABS being always on, the new battery was fully discharged once and since then I start noticing the weird noises with then key at on position. As the battery is relatively new, less than a year and I started driving at least once a week, I got suspicious of a potential parasitic drain and identified a big one, almost 1A. I found two fuses accounting for it, #5 and #7, driver side in the cabin.
These issues might be interconnected in some way and maybe not.
 

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Thanks again. Tested the fuses and they are good. Sometimes when I am about to start the van, I heard some noise not exactly but at best close to some whining/bubbling sound, from the vague direction of the dash (can't tell if it comes underhood or not but in the general direction from the behind of the dash, driver side). I only started noticing these kind of weird noises a few months ago when the van was severely discharged and couldn't get started. They were not the cranking noise that I am familiar with. The key was at the on position before moving to the ignition. If I can recall clearly, the first time when the noise came, I felt it came from the underhood toward the center. But later when I heard of them, they came more from behind the dash. Once recently I even felt it came from the direction of the center radio/AC control dash area (with the radio fuse already pulled). Maybe just my inferior ears hard to get fingers on the locations:) But anyhow these noise all came when the key is at the "on" position and before I turned the key to the ignition. They are not the cranking noise. The first time I noticed that, after turning the key to ignition, I then heard the weak cranking and later I had to jump it. Not sure if these have anything to do with my ongoing ABS errors and parasitic drain. The time line is,
i. starting early 2020, ABS light came on occasionally but mostly good.
ii. middle 2020, the old battery was dead (due to covid-19 no driving for a long while). It was replaced with a new fresh battery. ABS was most off and occasionally on through 2020
iii. then a few months ago Spring 2021, ABS starts being permanently on.
iv. roughly the same time, a few days later with ABS being always on, the new battery was fully discharged once and since then I start noticing the weird noises with then key at on position. As the battery is relatively new, less than a year and I started driving at least once a week, I got suspicious of a potential parasitic drain and identified a big one, almost 1A. I found two fuses accounting for it, #5 and #7, driver side in the cabin.
These issues might be interconnected in some way and maybe not.
If it is "ticking" noise, then most likely it is sticky mode control motor or temp. control motors for AC/temp control. These get stuck or gets out of sync and makes ticking noise. (My wife calls it "sounds like mouse is scurring around")
 
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