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I'm going to do the first oil change on my Odyssey. But I only have one jack. I can't jack it at the designated points right behind the wheel well because the oil will not drain completely. So where does everybody place the jack under the Odyssey for an oil change? Thanks for your help.
 

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Ramps are the answer. Easier and safer.

-d
 

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The front and rear jacking points are shown in the Helm service Manual. Use jack stands to support the vehicle -- NEVER the jack. Use a service jack and not the jack that comes with the vehicle for emergency spare tire change. Sears has all the stuff you need.
 

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So I'm curious...am I the only one to use ramps for oil changes? I keep seeing folks talking about how jack stands are safer than ramps. I personally feel MUCH more secure with my Rhino ramps keeping me from being crushed by 4400 pounds.

Anybody care to show me the light?

- Darell
 

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If you have a good floor jack and stands, you can lift the whole front end by putting the jack under the tiedown hook in the center just ahead of the engine. You can then put your jackstands under the front jacking points under the rocker mouldings. Do be careful that your jackstand saddles are narrow enough not to hurt the plastic of the rocker mouldings. You can jack the rear end the same way, since there is a tiedown hook/loop back there, too.

Jerry O.
2001 GG LX
 

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How does one use a jack to lift one side of the vehicle up to rotate the tires? The jack points along the frame rails near the wheel wells are too narrow to support both jack and jack stands, i.e., impossible to place the jack stands while the jack occupies that space. Using the jack at the tiedown hooks don't seem to help either, at least for the rear of the vehicle, as there is not sufficient clearance for the jack to operate. Can anyone relate their experience and solution to this problem?
 

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I jack up the front using the tie down hook and then place a jack stand under the rocker mouldings. For the floor jack I use, there is sufficient room to use the rear tie down hook when jacking the rear of the van. Then I place jack stands on the rear rocker mouldings. Not sure what kind of jack you are using, it sounds like it is probably the problem.

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Chris
99 EX Deep Velvet Blue; Fog Lights; Air Deflector; Splash Guards; Cargo Tray; Cargo Mat
 

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Sir D, I use Rhino ramps too, though haven't changed the oil on the Ody yet! Gonna just try the "turn the wheel" trick and others suggested in this forum... (great thread, Jim!) Hope to never put the Ody up on the ramps OR jacks for oil changes...

Geez, been changin' oil for years, and didn't know how much of a rookie I was compared to people here....

Anyhow, for tire rotations, I use two floor jacks, under the frame rail jack points. Since I'm not under the car, and I work fairly quickly, I don't use stands for that. Front to rear, one side at a time...

-SJ

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DEP '01 EX no-navi
 

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OK, I know this thread is fairly old, but I wanted to post a big THANKS for the information contained in it ... I own a 01 MB LX, and I consulted this web site before purchasing it, as well as ever since I took recepit of the van. I have taken it in for the first few changes (mainly because the winters are too cold to be scooting around on a cold concrete floor), but today I decided to change it and was not sure about where to jack .... thanks guys! Tommorrow = me + van + jack + stands ....
 

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I use ramps as well. Mine are from JC Penney, and over 20 years old, but they work great. 225 width tires are the limit they will hold, but I like the drive on ease better than jacking and stands, plus they give really great work space. I can't jack the car that high, even with a 3-ton garage jack.

As a note, I would NEVER put any body parts under a car that's only supported by a jack. Those who do something "quickly" all assume if the jack were to fail, it will slowly come down. I assume the worst, and I would not want to be bench pressing ANY vehicle at the trunk side, let alone on the drive train side, that is just plain not smart.

John
 

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Hopefully, no jack needed

I'll be upset if I have to use ramps, jack, jack stands, etc. just to change the oil in the Odyssey. I'm only up to 600 miles or so at this point.

All my cars up to this point; a

1982 Datsun 210,
1980 Toyota Supra,
1982 Toyota Supra,
1992 Toyota Camry, and a
1994 Toyota Celica,

have not needed any of above mentioned devices just to change the oil. I've always laid a blanket or piece of cardboard for me to lay on and I reach underneath the vehicle to unscrew the drain bolt. The oil filters on the above listed cars I could change from above by leaning into the engine compartment.

I am hoping the turn the wheel all the way to the right trick works for me such that I can leave the jack put away for those really tough and infrequent jobs.
 

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Most likely it can be done without ramps.

I like ramps because of the clearance it gives me, and at the time of an oil change allows me to do a quick review (from a southern hemisphere perspective) to make sure no critical bolts have come off or come loose, and make sure all the stuff that should never be touched is just where it is supposed to be, hoses in brackets, wires connected etc. In addition, it allows me to wipe off the spills on cross members and other areas so I won't have a 10 year cake buildup of oil and road dirt.

Either way will get the job done, everyone has their own preferred methods, they all work.

John
 

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So far, I haven't changed the oil (myself). For various reasons, I let the dealer do it; last time using my oil (Mobil 1) and filter (from hondapartsforyou.com) at a cost of about $12.

I have, however, installed the engine block heater using ramps, and rotated the tires a couple of times using a floor jack and two jack stands.

For changing the oil (w/o rotating the tires) I'll almost certainly use the ramps. Yes, I might be able to do it without the ramps but I don't know why I'd want to. It's easy to put the Ody up on ramps and it gives a lot of working room underneath. It's a good opportunity to do a visual inspection.

To rotate tires, or rotate tires and change oil at the same time, I suggest using jack stands. Jack the front up using the center tie down and place the jack stands on the sides, as others have described. This position allows easy changing of the oil and filter and allows you to remove both front tires simultaneously. Then you can use the floor jack on each rear wheel individually to rotate the tires. Since you don’t have to get under the vehicle it’s OK to use the floor jack. I also always place a tire, either the one going on or the one coming off under the “frame” just in case the jack fails. Of course, if you have two more jack stands you can jack up the whole vehicle.

We should emphasize that the vehicle's jack isn't suitable for general maintenance. It's only designed for occasional use. In my "youth" I used to use the car's jack and noticed obvious wear on one of them caused by regular use.

Mel
 
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Personally, I use jack stands and not ramps. I don't like driving the car up the ramps. If I need extra clearance, I might pull out the ramps:D .
 

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We have a 2000 LX that we bought used and I just changed the oil for the first time yesterday. It was a piece of cake. The only thing I may do differently next time is to put the front end on 2X6's to get just a little more clearance to get my drain pan underneath. Getting to the oil filter was easy, thanks to the "turn the wheel to the right" tip. I guess after changing the oil and filter on my '91 toyota truck for the last 10 years anything would be easy.
 

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For oil changes I use a pair of mini (height wise) ramps I cut from 1x12 lumber stock, two pieces stacked with a small third piece as an end "stop", and a 45 degree cut at the other (drive on) end. Length is about 26 inches. The three inch lift gives enough clearance, they're easy to drive on, and in my small garage, they store right underneath the vehice when not in use.
 
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