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Which VCM Muzzler to Buy?

126K views 199 replies 70 participants last post by  phattyduck  
#1 ·
We had a 2006 Ody Touring that we bought new. A few weeks ago we were in a bad head one accident that wrote off the vehicle. 10 years in and it had 196,000 Kms. Drove and felt like new.
We never used a VCM muzzler on it (never even knew about it) and had no issues at all.

Now.... We just bought a 2016 Ody Touring. We are at less than 700Kms on it. I have seen many posts on getting the muzzler.

Should we get it done? Or leave the car as it based on the 2006 model and th fact we never had any issues?

Secondly - which one doe we buy?

The one from Verbatim costs $97.84 plus $16.55 shipping.

There is this other one from
http://vcmdisable.com/how-to-purchase.html for $58.95

Which one should I get??
 
#4 ·
I'd definitely put on the VCMuzzler from Verbatim. If you send him a PM on the forum he has a little better price than if you buy through eBay.

Verbatim is the one who studied and researched and tested to create the Muzzler. He has put in many hours only to have others copy his idea. The only reason the others exist is because of his hard work. Unless he quits making them I wouldn't buy one from anyone else. I feel it's the least we can do to thank him for his ingenuity. I have one in my 08 Ody Touring and love it.
 
#5 ·
Couldn't have said it better! The other advantage with the original from Verbatim is that it gives you the option of changing out the resistor to better suit your climate. I think that is well worth the added price to make sure it works where you live. I would also suggest sending him a PM here. I did and saved a few $. In the end it your choice but price shouldn't be the only deciding factor.
 
#7 ·
I would consider running it with out it. Even in the long run, the chances of a 2016 having serious problems are pretty slim. After 10 years a company like Honda has reduced failure rates down to below 1%. Even if it is just for the duration of the power train warranty, take advantage of the fuel savings. Thats my plan with my 2016. I know a Honda R&D engineer who does not have VCMuzzler on his 2008.
 
#8 ·
Where did you get the 1% failure rate number? I'd like to see the data on that. I find it hard to believe since they are still re-ringing even the newer model Odysseys. The fuel savings is miniscule. Most here have reported either no difference in mileage or maybe around 1 mpg difference on average. If you want to wait for a problem and THEN add the Muzzler then go right ahead. It's your vehicle and it's certainly up to you. My 2008 had around 120-130K on it when I added the Muzzler. I never had any issues with VCM on mine (never felt it kick in or out) but when I saw the Muzzler I knew it was the right thing to do. I didn't even hesitate and bought one right away. Even if there is never a misfire problem I'd like to get many more miles out of my $450 each engine mounts.

Just because a Honda R&D engineer is running his 08 without a Muzzler means nothing. He probably gets it paid for or has access to inexpensive repair. It's clear that everyone is not affected by the problems with VCM. However, adding the Muzzler decreases the chances of a problem to extremely low with no ill effects from adding it. The worst case is you might get a P0128 code once in a while (I haven't ever seen that but some have.)
 
#11 ·
I have one from verbatim - and I didn't think they were that expensive but maybe I've just forgotten? Well worth it though - it's an OEM quality piece. Had mine for well over a year in heat AND freezing Canadian winter cold with zero issues. Fuel economy has changed by approx 0.1 litres / 100 kms. So basically nothing.
 
#13 ·
Vcmdisable.com is just another copycat of Verbatim's VCMuzzler. Verbatim did all the studying of wiring diagrams, research, and testing, including figuring out at exactly what temperature VCM was enabled, and then coming up with several different resistors that would work for the vast majority of cars. His VCMuzzler comes with several different easy-to-swap resistors that allow it to work in various cars with differing cooling systems.

Yes, it can be done cheaper and the male pigtail is available. There is another thread here where a guy made his own using a couple of pigtails. Again, though, in that thread the member uses the pigtails which are connected by splice connectors which, even heat shrinked and taped can still corrode in moist and salty areas. If I were to make them I would want everything done with sealed connectors which is exactly how Verbatim makes his. The vcmdisable.com harness has only one resistor so if it doesn't work it doesn't work.

I have no affiliation with any of the makers of these, including Verbatim aside from the fact that I bought one and use it on my 08 Touring. I am, however, grateful that someone like Verbatim came up with the solution and I wouldn't buy anyone else's. I might make my own but I would buy the pigtails and then remove the existing wires/terminals and use new terminals and a connector for the resistors, just as Verbatim did, so there are no splices outside of the crimped connectors. To do that, however, you need to have the proper crimp tool which will set you back an additional $20-30 for an inexpensive model. The best deal is just to buy Verbatim's original.
 
#16 ·
VCMuzzler from Verbatim is my recommendation for the same reason everyone on this post has mentioned. Remember, his motivation was to help owner overcome the VCM issues by preventing it from turning on, he did not set out to make profits and patents. Our support of his product is the least we can do to say "Thank You". Everyone else out there making on is essentially a duplicate of Verbatim's final work. His testing and research cost and time counts for something! Can you make your own? Yes you surely can. However, would you have made your own without the knowledge that Verbatim poured out in this forum? Probably not. Do what is right and support Verbatim's effort.

I have used the VCMuzzler for about a year on my 2012 TE, and a few months ago, I still had to replaced a broken motor mount! I purchased the 2012 TE preowned. I am convinced that the mount was on its way out from the initial years of VCM kicking in and out until I muzzled it.

My 2 cents.
 
#17 ·
Verbatim's VCMuzzler saved(is saving?) our 2011. We got it used at 73K this year. I installed as soon as I found about this device. Our 2011 did not have any symptom of engine mount going bad but I believe VCMuzzler stopped any further problem. Highly recommended.
 
#18 · (Edited)
First of all, thanks to everyone for their kind words and support. I just wanted to add for clarity that the price you stated from me above is in Canadian dollars, whereby the price you stated from the other place is in USD. As stated, theirs is a single resistor solution with no flexibility to change based on vehicle variability and climate. Mine requires 5 oem connectors where theirs only uses two and I supply two resistors instead of one. Guaranteed it takes me more than twice as long to manufacture.
 
#19 ·
I received mine from verbatim a couple of days ago. I will have time on Sat morning to put it in. I can't wait to get rid of the annoying "engine brake" feeling when the VCM ECO mode kicks in.

I have a couple of Toyota MR2s I use for autocross and road racing, or an occasional joy ride when I'm not shuttling the kids around. I have several third party items on the cars that were developed by individuals. I always buy from them instead of the copycats, which always pop up. If the innovators are not rewarded, the innovators will stop producing. You may save a few bucks on the current item, but the next item you want may never be developed.

John
 
#21 ·
Just got my invoice. I plan on finishing up the process tonight. Really looking forward to getting rid of this. The ECO light seems so sporadic on my 2016. Even the lightest change of throttle kicks it off, so it seems to be constantly going on and off when I'm driving around town. Such a terrible system.

(First Post!)
 
#22 ·
I went with buying from Verbatim because I believe he was the first person to come up with the device. Have to give him credit for his time and effort. Everyone else is just a copy of his work. Sort of like buying a knock off product.
 
#24 ·
I installed it this morning. I drove for a while and the engine temp gauge did sit a little lower. No ECO. I stopped and let the car idle for a few minutes while I filled some gas containers for the mower, and I did get the ECO light a few times after that. But once I got moving for a few minutes it didn't come on again.

Later today I want to get dinner. The ECO light didn't come on at all in a 12 mile drive. But after waiting at the drive thru for a few minutes, it came on a few times after that. But once I got moving again for a few minutes, it didn't come on the rest of the way home. It definitely minimized the VCM activation, but didn't eliminate it. I'll see how it does it rush hour this week. If it comes on more than rarely, I'll switch to the other resistor.

John
 
#25 ·
That sounds just about right. I wouldn't move to the red resistor over that. VCM isn't eliminated...it's merely reduced to not coming on very often. There can be other issues crop up if you move to the red resistor when it's not needed.
 
#26 ·
This morning was the first rush hour drive with the Muzzler. 35 miles and did not see one instance of the ECO light. Normally it would activate hundreds of times. It wasn't as crowded as usual, so we'll see how it does later this week when traffic is more stop and go. I went out to lunch and after waiting in the drive thru at the bank it did activate 2 times, but went out after that. I reset my trip odometer when I installed it, so we'll see after a while if there is any significant change in MPG. So far so good - very glad it's installed.

John
 
#27 ·
Thank you all, and special thank you to verbatim for designing and producing the VCMuzzler. I have a 2011 EX-L with (now) 75,000 miles on it. Was hoping to never come across the issue, but should have just gone ahead and installed it the first time I read about this in the forum years ago. I got the dreaded P0303 code (misfire cylinder 3) a few days ago and took it into the dealership, who is working on fixing the affected parts (extended warranty plus it’s covered by a TSB). I plan to order the VCMuzzler immediately and install once I get the van back.

Thanks for everyone who’ve advised on this issue in this thread and in other threads. Will be contacting verbatim shortly!
 
#29 ·
Hi Guys, I have 08 ody EXL. Just returned to Wisconsin from Florida spring break and noticed along that way I am now using oil. About a quart over 2000 miles. I read about the class action suit and was not aware of the oil consumption issue, I don't recall being notified from Honda. I guess I never really noticed any excessive use between changes but wish I would have known during the extended warranty period so I could have it checked out, now 11 years since purchase I'd assume all is lost for that. Anyhow I've been doing research and found the information about the VC muzzler. I'd like to order one and found it on ebay. Before I do I have a question. Does installing the muzzler help to correct the oil consumption issue once it has started? Hoping so!
Thanks for any replies
 
#30 ·
Yes, it will often slow the oil burning considerably. I'd recommend checking out the VCMTunerII, though. In my opinion, it's the best option out there due to some added features and 100% disabling of VCM. Any of the others are good, too, though.
 
#33 ·
Gentlemen,
Thank you for the responses. I'm going to order one. I was discussing the issues with some guys at work and we were wondering if the oil consumption issue is caused by carbon building up in the oil control rings on those cylinders that are deactivated by the VCM? If so we were also discussing different ideas to try and clean the oil control ring for those cylinders without disassembling the engine, using chemicals. Any thoughts on that?
Thanks
 
#35 ·
Ok so I'm providing a followup to my oil consumption. About a month and a half ago I put in the VCmuzzler. On the same day I pulled the 3 plugs from the rear cylinders and put about 4 ounces of Seafoam in each and let is set overnight. The next day I sucked out the remaining Seafoam and turned the engine over to blow any extra out of the cylinders. Reinstalled the plugs and drove about 50 miles before doing an oil change (I use Mobil one). I also put some Seafoam directly in the oil when I did the ring cleaning. Since then the van has been driven about 1200 miles and I'm very happy to report the ECO light has not come on and no oil consumption. So at this point I'm very happy with the VCmuzzler! Thanks for all the help!
 
#38 ·
I believe this is my first post to this forum and I am very thankful for all the input regarding the VCM issues. I have owned the same 2010 EX-L since 2012 and currently have 89k original miles it. It has been a great car to own and drive. Until reading this forum, I was totally unaware that the engine utilized VCM! I've had no problems with the VCM ..that I'm aware of!

But after reading all the forum input on VCM, I am leaning heavily toward installing a VCM muzzler.. My questions are.. 1) Which one of the devices will work best for a North Texas climate where we get sub freezing temps in the winter and 100+ degree temps in the summer? And 2) because of the way the muzzler operates, has anyone experienced an overheated engine while the coolant temperature gauge remains in the normal operating range?

Actually, I have one more question... Most everyone on the forum is recommending the Verbatim Muzzler II.. Has anyone had experience with the muzzler sold on S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura Per their info, they seem to have a superior method for reporting an engine overheat situation.

Thank you all for your input and recommendations!

Tony H.
North Texas..
 
#40 ·
Most everyone on the forum is recommending the Verbatim Muzzler II.. Has anyone had experience with the muzzler sold on S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura Per their info, they seem to have a superior method for reporting an engine overheat situation.
I have one. Works great. (any of the options will work just fine for you! the resistor-based ones won't work 100% of the time, but that isn't a big deal)

As for overheating - we were recently on a long (15+ mile) uphill, fully loaded (8 passengers, roof box, hitch carrier) and following traffic (lower radiator flow) and I was able to watch the SVCM 'release' control of the ECT1 sensor so the ECU reported the actual temp when it got somewhere north of 205*F. Maxed out at ~217*F and came back down with free airflow after passing slower traffic (and leveling out of the road).

Keep in mind that the radiator fans are (mostly) controlled by a separate (ECT 2) sensor that senses the radiator outlet temperature. The ECT1 sensor that is modified by the VCM disabling devices is used for engine control and the dash display. It normal circumstances, the gauge display is no different with or without a VCM disabler - it will stay constant from about 155*F to 210*F+

-Charlie