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I have a 2010 EX-L with 180,006 miles. Six months ago the alternator went out at 175,300 miles. While looking at what it would take to replace the alternator, I figured the timing belt change interval was coming up and would do it all at once. I ordered a Honda kit which included the TB, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, tensioner, pully mount bolts, water pump and seals. I followed steps from a couple of good YouTube videos and used torque specs from an online manual when assembling everything. All seemed to go together well and it started up and ran well after the job was complete. After about 3000 miles it developed a coolant leak. Grrrrr. I couldn't tell exactly, because of access, but the leak was coming from the general area of the water pump. How could this be? I didn't have the time to get into another water pump replacement so I did the lazy thing and put some coolant Stop Leak in the radiator. That seemed to stop the leak. Then after another 2000 miles, while my daughter was driving through a residential area last week at about 25 mph, she said it just died without any lights flashing or making any sound. Eventually, I was able to look at the valve springs through the oil filler cap, while she cranked it, and could see no movement. The valve camshaft was not turning. How could that be? I thought it might be a bad (seized) pump or pully, but when I tore it down and did the inspection I could find nothing wrong besides a broken belt. Pulleys (idler, tensioner, and pump) all ran freely. Tensioner checks out, no leaks and moves in and out slowly in a vice when actuated with a lot of force. I will have to pull the heads for reconditioning but I do not want to proceed until I determine what caused the belt to fail (ripped into 3 pieces). I am baffled and frustrated. Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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How could that be? Where did you get the parts? When you say "Honda kit" did you buy oem or use an Asin kit? Or was it something generic from Flea-bay?
 

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Two things lead me to think you got counterfeit parts:
1. Honda doesn't make a TB kit. Online dealer Bernardi sells their own kit Honda Timing Belt Kit, but it does not include the idler or tensioner, that yours did.
2. It's very rare for a Honda WP or TB to fail. It's inconceivable for both to fail on the same vehicle after just 5K miles.
 

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"Genuine Honda Kit" for less than $200 is counterfeit, especially if you ordered it from Ebay. Post where you got it. There is a recent post in the J-series engines nation group on facebook that documented a fake timing belt that snapped, with all the wrong fonts on the belt. The water pump should come in a blue bag, timing belt in a clear bag with no writing, tensioner pulley in a white box, idler pulley in a white box, tensioner in a pink bag. Those fake kits have everything in light brown boxes with fake labels. I purchased a "genuine" thermostat myself only to find out it's fake when I stopped by at my local Honda dealer.

You should pay no less than $350 for a real genuine kit from a Honda dealer.
 

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+1 for source of parts, Not sure where previous posters are getting the idea the OP paid less than $200, but if that was the case or quite frankly at any price from an Ebay or Amazon seller as there is no way to verify who you are really dealing with. Either buy Aisin from Rock Auto or from any dealer direct, either local over the counter or online directly from their own website like Bernardi. Otherwise counterfeit parts are a serious risk.
 

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I just want to note that especially if you got "Honda kits" for between $100 ~ $150, it is seriously fake. Since you can purchase Aisin TKH002 for about $190. That is your best bet if you want to save money. But if you think about it, you save just about $150 by not buying OEM.
 

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When you look at the belt in the failure locations, are there any signs of damage - maybe a cut or something that could have led to a failure? signs of it having come off or worn down somewhere? If you bought a honda part from a dealer (even one of the ones that sells online), I would reach out to Honda just to see what they say. To say the least, it is surprising that it failed so quickly - maybe it was damaged before you got it? can you post some pictures?
 

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If you are planning to get something from ebay, just review the seller's feedback. Another thing I check is the seller's name. Sometime it is an actual dealer with an ebay store. If everything looks good I'll go ahead and buy the item... But for serious engine parts my to go place is Rock Auto or OEM Majestic or Bernardi Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I appreciate all the insight. I sure wish I had joined this forum before I did my timing belt replacement. I was fooled good. The parts were ordered on Ebay for $150.00. They look just like the original, right down to the Honda logo cast into the WP housing, photos attached. I usually just go to my local NAPA parts store to by parts but I thought I would try ordering online this time. When I saw all the Honda logos along with a claim that they were OEM parts I thought I had hit the jackpot. But alas turns out I hit the crackpot That was a hard lesson. I have heard a lot of good about the kit on Rock Auto. I guess I will go that route. Anyone have any insight on the heads? Is there a way to check condition of valves after a TB failure without removing heads? I don't know if it makes a difference but the front camshaft stopped with "3" aligned with timing mark and the rear is 180 degrees from timing marks aligning.
 

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I appreciate all the insight. I sure wish I had joined this forum before I did my timing belt replacement. I was fooled good. The parts were ordered on Ebay for $150.00. They look just like the original, right down to the Honda logo cast into the WP housing, photos attached. I usually just go to my local NAPA parts store to by parts but I thought I would try ordering online this time. When I saw all the Honda logos along with a claim that they were OEM parts I thought I had hit the jackpot. But alas turns out I hit the crackpot That was a hard lesson. I have heard a lot of good about the kit on Rock Auto. I guess I will go that route. Anyone have any insight on the heads? Is there a way to check condition of valves after a TB failure without removing heads? I don't know if it makes a difference but the front camshaft stopped with "3" aligned with timing mark and the rear is 180 degrees from timing marks aligning.

OUCH! Curse these people who sell counterfeit parts. When I read your first post I knew immediately this was the problem. Man that sucks. Someone should sue these people! This has to stop. Spread the news people!!!
 

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I'm sorry to tell you this, but that's a fake kit, confirmed. That snapped belt is the same one posted in J-series engines nation group, that one snapped after 25k miles, less than a year later. See pictures below, from that guy. I cannot comment on the water pump, but if you don't see the NSK bearing print on the driveshaft, then it's not OEM. Both bearings aren't OEM either, OEM/Koyo bearings come with that brown/orange color seals. I see the unknown brand's idler bearing's outer seal has cracks also.
 

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154862

Sample
154863

Relativity a new seller, non related with any dealer in particular. 98.7%. (red flags)
154864

Location: Hong Kong - (red flag) product is in the US but seller's location HK?

Ebay is a tricky place, check review, seller's location, years on ebay, items sold, what items do they sell besides the one you are looking for.

This is just a sample on how to review item/sellers on ebay before buying something.
 

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^ ALL of em are fake!

The key thing for us is to know how exactly the OEM genuine parts looked and how they are bagged. Look online or stop by your dealership. I doubt the dealership will show you without doing business there however LOL
 

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  • Here are a few pics of my AISIN kit from Rock Auto.
 

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If you are planning to get something from ebay, just review the seller's feedback. Another thing I check is the seller's name. Sometime it is an actual dealer with an ebay store. If everything looks good I'll go ahead and buy the item... But for serious engine parts my to go place is Rock Auto or OEM Majestic or Bernardi Honda.
Unfortunately seller feedback can be corrupt too. Better to just avoid Ebay (and Amazon as neither has good control over their sellers) all together for this type of item as it just isn't worth the risk. Yes, I know legit dealers sell on Ebay, but there are fraud posers there too, so if you see a dealer selling there contact the dealer direct to make sure. JMO
 

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I lost the box for the idler pulley, but here are the bags for the OEM parts from my local Honda dealer. I keep these bags and boxes for original parts for reference. The only things in a box should be the idler and tensioner pulleys, and they are in white. From left to right, timing belt, water pump (blue bag), tensioner (light pink bag), tensioner pulley. Nothing should come in any light brown boxes like in those ebay auctions.

BTW, I ran Aisin TKH002 kit for 100k miles but the water pump bearing got noisy, that's about it. That is your safest bet outside of an OEM kit.

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