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Yet another interior lights thread

11860 Views 38 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  John Clark
Okay here goes...

I'm constantly having a dead battery because one of the kids left on an interior light. This has been discussed numerous times in the past, I know.

To date there has been three courses of action:

1 - Install a "Priority Start" module that disconnects the battery from the vehicle when the voltage drops below a threshold that will still start the vehicle. Easy installation no real wiring modifications. Will need to reset clock and radio anti-theft code after an incident.

2 - Install a "Hondoff" device that times out the interior lights after a preset amount of time, like what the factory should have done. A fairly involved process that requires some interior disassembly and splicing of the wiring harness.

3 - Live with it, stop being a baby. Remember to turn off each individual light, or use the "Master" switch on the dash to shut off all lights.

Well, I don't know. I don't like any of these. Most everybody chooses #3, I guess. Those with iniative probably would do #2, or less likely #1.

I have an idea. After studying a schematic from my local library, I've found that each of these lights has a common feed, but two paths to complete the circuit. One circuit is the automatic stuff like entry lights when you open the door. This circuit is controlled by the MICU. It has no problem timing off after a couple minutes, before you even get your kids loaded. The second path to ground through the dash switch has no timer. I'd like to tap that ground connection with a relay that is enabled when the ignition is on, and for 15 minutes or so after that.

This should require disconnecting the ground lead from the body of the vehicle and connecting it through a relay that is driven by accessory power, but also has unswitched power that drives a timer to hold that relay for a time period set by the user/installer.

Would anybody like to help?

Thanks,
Roger
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Ignition Sensing Delay Timer

I could probably use this to drive my relay....
I am interested, although not sure what I could contribute to the effort. Is the HONDOFF available for the 3rd generation vans?

Another improvement I would like is to make the low fuel light blink. My wife never sees the light and has run the van out of gas twice in less than 2 years......
jms336 said:
Another improvement I would like is to make the low fuel light blink.
Yes, YELLOW with 5 gls. and RED with 2 gls. left and a SMILEY FACE with 0 gls.
I'm a bit surprised it doesn't "DING" at you when the light comes on. I'm trying to remember the last vehicle I owned that didn't. My wife has a tendency to pay no attention to the fuel gauge, or any gauge for that matter. I've gotten in to take off on trips and found the light to be on and she had no clue..... I can't figure out if the light comes on really early or if you just can't fill the tank. We drove 30 miles last week with the light on and still only could load up 18.5 gallons. At that was after squeezing in another gallon after the pump kicked off.

Back on topic....I have looked into option #1 and that seemed like the easiest solution for this setup. It's not expensive, nor hard to install. We also have "issues" with the way the headlights stay on in our EX-L model and have left them on accidentally as well. Not as much of a concern now, but it still could happen.
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Yes the Hondoff will work with the 3rd generation vans. I don't know if there is any instruction for this. The lighting circuit is the same as the 2nd generations from what I can tell.

I've not experienced running out of fuel. I rarely let my tank get below 1/4. I costs the same to keep it of full as it does to keep on 1/4 and it requires far fewer trips to the pump

;)

I'm trying the marine priority start as we speak as it was only $25. I'm still looking for a more elegant solution. Maybe I'll post a schematic of the interior lighting circuit here.
Okay, so here's the schematic of the whole interior lighting circuit. I'd like to interupt the ground leg from the dash switch, G502. Has anyone had their dash apart and found the other end of this wire? I'd like to remove the remote end where it bolts to the vehicle body.

I'm going to remove this ground, and check to see if the lights still come one when the doors are opened, they should. I'll then check if I can turn them of with the dash switch, they should. I'll then see if I can still manually turn on each light individually, or collectively from the dash switch. They shouldn't.

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This looks good to me. The tap may be easy – it’s the 3 power connections that might take the most time. Can the switch be removed without taking the dash apart? Ironically, after the relay times out, the map lights will not come on unless they were left in the “auto” position. Please prove updates. This is one of the features (or lack of) that is keeping me from buying an Odyssey. After you’re finished, the Odyssey electrical system will be as good as my 98 Windstar:D.
johncecc said:
After you’re finished, the Odyssey electrical system will be as good as my 98 Windstar:D.
You got that right brother. Your Windstar also likely has 12 volt accesory outlets that supply power without needing the ignition on.

I hope I can put a timer in that ground leg at the point where it attaches to the vehicle body and leave the switch connector alone. I'm looking to buy or make a timer/relay that allows current to flow freely for 15 minutes before cutting off, but is overridden by an ignition sense lead so that you can have the lights on as long as you want with the vehicle on.

It should work, but it'll cost me time that I don't seem to have....
Chester_Lampwic said:
You got that right brother. Your Windstar also likely has 12 volt accesory outlets that supply power without needing the ignition on.
If your accessory outlets worked that way, wouldn't you run the risk of wearing down the battery, too?
I just installed the priorty start marine this weekend.
Was easy except for one item, the honda sheet metal clamp would not tighten down on the priority start terminal, (terminal was too small diameter). The lead terminal is removeable from the priority start, so I just took it off, put a bolt in the theaded hole so the threads didn't get messed up. Then smacked it with a big ball peen hammer until it was about 1/8" shorter and 1/16" bigger in diameter, then cleaned it up with a file. Now the clamp fits fine.
I just zip tied the unit to the battery box, and it seems to work just as advertised.
Total install time was about 1 hour, if I would have employed the ball peen hammer "fix" earlier the time would have been 30 min.
psu ody fan said:
If your accessory outlets worked that way, wouldn't you run the risk of wearing down the battery, too?
That depends on what you'r powering. I sometimes like to charge my cellphone, when I'm away from the car. It doesn't draw enough to kill the car's battery, but with the Ody, I don't have the luxury. I'll probably time my accessory outlets too.

tck4x4,
I installed the maine priority start last week. I seem to remember the leaded connector the priority start didn't exactly want to go over the larger battery terminal, so I needed to spread the connector by prying with a screwdriver. Also, the vehicle cabling could have used a little more slack. I'm not entirely happy with the fitment. Hopefully it stays put until I can get some warmer weather to work on it.
This is certainly one area where the Honda disapoints. My GM vehicles all turn off the accessory power after 20 minutes so I never had to worry about this issue.

I also can't believe that Honda only offers auto off headlights in the Touring model, while practically every GM model comes standard with this feature.

For me, I have just learned to live with it, although I don't necessarily like it.
What I would like is to have the OFF setting on the console at the front to reset the lamps. If I hit the OFF and turn it back to the Door setting, all interior lamps will not go back on until switched on again.
A friendly mechanic at work gave me a surplus one of these. I'm rigging up a test circuit as we speak. I've had to use a relay as an isolated initiate switch. Seems to work pretty well.

The physical installation into the Ody might not happen so soon, unfortunately. By the time I get home from work it's dark outside and I don't feel in the mood for working on it in my driveway.
Please share your results. I really look forward to having a HONDOFF type solution.

In the interim, I replace all my interior dome bulbs with less draw high flux LEDS.
According to the schematic you posted, turning the dash mounted switch to off should prevent you from turing the interior lights on by pressing on the lens. That's not the case on my 2006.
GJSODY said:
According to the schematic you posted, turning the dash mounted switch to off should prevent you from turing the interior lights on by pressing on the lens. That's not the case on my 2006.
Hmm... suspicious. The switch on my '05 turns off all operation the auto entry lights and when each individuall turned on manually.

Maybe I'll take Friday afternoon off work so I can tinker with this.
Let me elaborate on my comment. On my 2006, turning the dash mounted interior light switch to off does not keep the front row map lights or the cargo light from working, but it does inhibit the second and third row map lights.

So, putting a relay in the ground wire at the switch would turn-off the second and third row map lights, but not the front row or cargo area. I have left the front row lights on, but it is normally the second and third row lights.
GJSODY said:
Let me elaborate on my comment. On my 2006, turning the dash mounted interior light switch to off does not keep the front row map lights or the cargo light from working, but it does inhibit the second and third row map lights.
Thankfully this is much harder to do. That being said, I almost did this the other day.

GJSODY said:

So, putting a relay in the ground wire at the switch would turn-off the second and third row map lights, but not the front row or cargo area. I have left the front row lights on, but it is normally the second and third row lights.

I'm okay with this. :)
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