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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 with about 130,000 miles on it. In the last few months I have noticed transmission fluid appearing on the ground, and now the leak has progressed to the point of needing to add about a quart a week. With the van running and on a lift, I was able to trace the fluid leaking to the top of the transmission just under the cooler line. I was quite sure that replacing the washers would be the fix, but no, still leaking. I observed it again today while raised on the lift so I could see the underside of the banjo fitting, not leaking. But when observed from the top, there came the fluid from between the cases.
I am going back out now to try to tighten up the bolts between the halves, but experience tells me they will be tight, and it won't help.

Has anyone seen this type of leak before? Is there a gasket between these halves? If so, should there be fluid in between anyway, or does this indicate an internal seal failure? What about a pressurized situation due to a plugged vent (I will look at that, not sure I know where it is...)

The transmission seems to continue to shift well. Hate to have to starting getting the fluid by the 50 gallon drum...

Thanks in advance.
 

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But when observed from the top, there came the fluid from between the cases.
I am going back out now to try to tighten up the bolts between the halves, but experience tells me they will be tight, and it won't help.

Has anyone seen this type of leak before? Is there a gasket between these halves? If so, should there be fluid in between anyway, or does this indicate an internal seal failure?
On our 2004, the transmission case seal failed and had to be replaced with a seal kit that cost less than $85, IIRC. Unfortunately, labor required-- to remove and disassemble the tranny-- was $1000+. Our Ody shifted fine while leaking, but I just didn't want to add fluid and coat my driveway or LA County with tranny fluid.
Here's my thread: http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/67283-transmission-case-leak.html.

G/L!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks WSY, I remember reading that post, but your follow up here helps confirm what I am seeing. At 130,000 miles I shouldn't complain, it has been dead on reliable, but like you I now have to decide on the expense of fixing vs. adding fluid (not a good long term solution,) or it may be time to trade it in.
To make things more interesting, I am mechanically inclined to the point of having a lift in my garage, and an engine hoist available; I believe you pull the engine and transmission to get to the transmission, (as you noted the parts are cheap) here the trade is, how many weeks can the van be down to do the work? Not to mention the on going bathroom remodel...
Best scenario, my daughter gets her license shortly, I think I will give it to her with the stipulation that we fix it, then she can sell it and get something else, in the mean time, I think I will start shopping.
Thanks again.
 

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If you have a hoist in your garage and are mechanically inclined, half a day if you have air tools. You are only pulling the trans, not the motor too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, have the air tools. That sounds fairly realistic then. I only have a Hanes brand manual, should I seek out others. I think the Hanes repair guide gave very limited transmission guidance, I believe they noted that the transmission and engine needed to be pulled as a unit to service either.
I am guessing the general procedure is, remove trans, split case, renew seal then reassemble.
I did a transfer case on my truck a few weeks ago, but those components seemed a lot more accessible.
Thanks
 

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Thanks WSY, I remember reading that post, but your follow up here helps confirm what I am seeing. At 130,000 miles I shouldn't complain, it has been dead on reliable, but like you I now have to decide on the expense of fixing vs. adding fluid (not a good long term solution,) or it may be time to trade it in.
To make things more interesting, I am mechanically inclined to the point of having a lift in my garage, and an engine hoist available; I believe you pull the engine and transmission to get to the transmission, (as you noted the parts are cheap) here the trade is, how many weeks can the van be down to do the work? Not to mention the on going bathroom remodel...
Best scenario, my daughter gets her license shortly, I think I will give it to her with the stipulation that we fix it, then she can sell it and get something else, in the mean time, I think I will start shopping.
Thanks again.
A good investment would be the Service manual from Helm -- it details the A/T removal.

What kind of lift do you have in your garage. I want one! :)

Pros, cons? Cost? Review?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a two post Rotary and am very pleased with it. I did not go with the asymetrical, if I remember correctly the capacity weight was not as high, and I use it for my 3/4 ton truck. We have a Miata and while it takes a bit more positioning it is fine for that too. I built the garage with this lift in mind to include the clearance necessary, I can fully walk under most vehicles when at the full height. It is great. There are plenty of cheaper lifts out there, but I was convinced the Rotary was a good quality lift, and once I found out that I could order it through a local installer, with their pricing, it was like getting the installation free, plus they received it at their shop, something that was not going to be easy to do at my house. Installed in half a day, plus the time it took me to wire it up.
If you install one, you will gain a whole new set of best friends, but for me that is part of the fun.
 
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