9- Of all 3 spots where the sliding door rubber stops can contact the door frame, all I needed was a piece of Fuel Hose in the MIDDLE position. The UPPER and LOWER areas, I left the felt pads there (I applied them at those locations a year ago).
- For good measure I applied a furniture protection pad toward the Rear of the Door Frame (look on the sliding door, you will see a rubber stop at the BOTTOM REAR of the sliding door). See pic above Step #8.

10- Final Look not too bad. Hey, we can do better than Honda engineers. Time for a beer!!!....

 

nice writeup

 

Nice write up and thanks for directing me in to possible problem areas
I did not do the hole entire panel removal because I'm hoping it's just the door stop issue
If it is I'll post a pic of what I used

I still haven't gone for the test ride but I'll have something when I get home from work tonight..

Thx again

 

..I still haven't gone for the test ride but I'll have something when I get home from work tonight..

Thx again

- Skip the door panel for now because it takes some 1h (although it is easy).

- The fuel hose thingy: if you have Butyl Rope and fuel hose, it is a 2-minute job.
A housewife can do this (that is what my wife said LOL).
She is very happy now!

 

Update: one week after this fix, although the idea of fuel hose works (no rattle), it does not stay in one place from repeated open/closure (of the sliding door). It basically slides off the intended position.
So I removed it.

PS: Anyone inventing any new trick, please post your photos!

---------
Next: I tried another trick, which should be permanent:
- Get a Fuel Hose with I.D. = 9mm.
- Cut a length somewhere between 17-20mm.
- Slide it into the MIDDLE "guide pin" of the sliding door, I use a bit of the Butyl Rope as "glue".
- So far it works well:

 

Hi, CNN!

Loved your suggestions (and all of the others that followed). I noticed the rattling sliding doors about a month ago (it wasn't quite as cold then) and tried a version of your fuel hose trick that worked great for me. I thought I'd share it.

I happen to be a distributor of gaskets and seals for enclosures, and I came across a particular gasket profile that worked perfectly. Now, I realize that not everyone has easy access to this stuff, but there are "industrial rubber supply" companies everywhere- I'd start there.

I used a Neoprene "D" profile with an pressure-sensitive adhesive. It's profile #576 on this page. Often you can get this type of gasketing with the adhesive tape already on it.

Here's a picture!

I was initially concerned that the thickness of this gasket would be too much (CNN's original success came from a 13mm fuel hose), but this actually worked pretty good. You can always tweak this method by adjusting the LENGTH of the piece you're using. If you want the gasket to compress more easily, use shorter lengths.

I used three 1" sections on the frame at the front of the door (high, medium and low positions), and one 1" piece at the back of the sliding door (actually on the door). NO MORE RATTLES!

In all, I used less than a foot of gasketing to fix BOTH doors. 4" for each side, to be exact.

Thanks to CNN for posting this great, easy fix, and to everyone who posted follow ups! This solution helped me avoid a service appointment at my local dealer and saved a lot of time!

GREAT FORUM!

 

Hi, CNN!

Loved your suggestions (and all of the others that followed). I noticed the rattling sliding doors about a month ago (it wasn't quite as cold then) and tried a version of your fuel hose trick that worked great for me. I thought I'd share it.

I happen to be a distributor of gaskets and seals for enclosures, and I came across a particular gasket profile that worked perfectly. Now, I realize that not everyone has easy access to this stuff, but there are "industrial rubber supply" companies everywhere- I'd start there.

I used a Neoprene "D" profile with an pressure-sensitive adhesive. It's profile #576 on this page. Often you can get this type of gasketing with the adhesive tape already on it.

Here's a picture!
View attachment 13838

I was initially concerned that the thickness of this gasket would be too much (CNN's original success came from a 13mm fuel hose), but this actually worked pretty good. You can always tweak this method by adjusting the LENGTH of the piece you're using. If you want the gasket to compress more easily, use shorter lengths.

I used three 1" sections on the frame at the front of the door (high, medium and low positions), and one 1" piece at the back of the sliding door (actually on the door). NO MORE RATTLES!

In all, I used less than a foot of gasketing to fix BOTH doors. 4" for each side, to be exact.

Thanks to CNN for posting this great, easy fix, and to everyone who posted follow ups! This solution helped me avoid a service appointment at my local dealer and saved a lot of time!

GREAT FORUM!

How is this fix holding up? Also, can you post pix of one of the sides showing where you put these on the frame and on the door if at all possible?

 

Gentlemen,

I came across this post on getting into the door panel via another thread to replace the door actuator problem that I have.

I was able to get all the 11 retainers pulled for the lower panel, but it won't come out. It is still being held down by the built in roller shade and I'm having trouble figuring out how to get it to release without breaking.

I see some screws inside that I'm going to have a go at. Should the roller come off with the panel or should I expect it to stay on the door?

 

Ah, forget that previous message. I figured out two things - first, the pulling up maneuver to remove the panel took more force than I had anticipated, and second - one of my panel retainers managed to get itself snapped back in place as I was trying to jostle the panel free.

So, got the panel off, actuator replaced and put back together. All is well. Thanks for the write-up and pictures!

 

Nice write up.I'll be doing this when I fix the door latch issue.

 

This has been an old thread. But I’d like to revive it by sharing my story here about the cause of, and how I battled with the sliding door rattling noises, and the resolutions I found!

My ’06 Touring passenger side sliding door’s cable one day just decided to break last winter! Mainly due to knowing how much efforts it will take to get all various panels/pieces off to get to the motor and to replace the cables, for quite a long time I just decided not to bother with it since only my wife and I are using the van nowadays as our kids are all grown and away. While they are home they can use the left door 😅 ; )

But after almost 1 year later I just decided not to tolerate it anymore. I bought just the pre-cut cables from eBay and went thru all the processes to get just the cables replaced and repaired, which by itself is a great post for another day. To do this you’d need to detach the door. I conveniently changed the outside roller along the way, and reset the motor etc.

So happy that I finally got my passenger side automatic sliding door back! The feeling of fully functioning van is so fulfilling that makes all the efforts and labor worthy. But only to notice a new rattle noise just emerged afterwards. It’s a plastic robbing noise coming toward the back side of the door when the van is driving on the uneven road, and on highway when the wind force is bigger. With many trial-and-error, I was able to eliminate the noise with someone sitting there pressing outward on the middle vertical window trim piece located toward the back of the door.

So, with the operations I just went thru needed for replacing the sliding door cables, many things are touched - the door might not be fully aligned (despite my best effort to mark and get the roller back to its original place on the door. The door is fully and smoothly operational without any issue/jam BTW), a brand-new roller, a new set of cables seating within the original motor pully, plus also once during the operations the detached sliding door got slid out of the supporting scissor jack and fell onto the ground as I went in and out of the back side of van that movement dis-stabilized it, which could all potentially contribute to the issues.

As the noises seems to be from the window trim, I took the trim piece out and add more padding onto the locking pins and put them back, no help. I tried to thicken the striker where the door latch locked onto by putting on a few rolls of electrical tap to make the door locks tighter, no help. I have also tried many suggestions posted on this thread to put various paddings on the contact points of van body where the door met, no help. The problem troubled me for a few weeks as I puzzling on what else I might possibly still do?

I need something to push the door out further it seems, as that’s how I can eliminate the noise pushing the door out at its back end from inside. The door is obviously somehow not locking as closely as before after I have worked on various parts. Then, without any confidence, I thought to myself - would that crappy looking deformed hardened door stopper at the end of upper track be of any help if I replace it?

In all the postings about the door stopper on this forum its only purpose recognized seems to be to only protect the door from hitting the car when opening. It could be true but it really isn’t – as even without it the door would never hit the car. Now its true and much more important purpose is revealed – that’s to make the door sealed tighter. This is what has helped me to eliminate the rattle noises. Simply buy a new one (a package of pairs is available from Amazon, 72557-S0X-A00) which is soft and flexible, compared to the old one that’s harden, deformed, mostly out of position, and replace it in seconds. Feel great the van is totally quietly (and to me fully operational) again!

Hope my story and experiences can help someone in the future. I know it’s become quite a long story/journey, thanks for following along.