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Oil pan replace

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Kulapu

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Anyone here can help me how to replace the oil pan of the 2003 odyssey? It looks chalenging. If there is a instructions on which/what to remove I would be able to replace it. The thread on the drain pan was broken. A lot of people told me to use heli coil. I think I want to replace the pan if I can,

Thank you!
 
#2 ·
I did it as part of my oil leak troubleshooting earlier this year. It's not that challenging. Remove exhaust pipe (three bolts on each manifold and another three bolts near the catalytic converter. Remove the torque converter inspection cover and I think that's it.

There are about 17-18 bolts for the pan. Check the manual for reinstall procedures and torque sequences. I used the Honda RTV glue. It's probably a 2-3 hour job for a DIY for the first time.

As I type this, I don't recall whether the crank counter balance needs to be removed.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the reply! It's not hard to remove with that cross bracket? Do I need to remove the sensor too? I've read that it's hard to remove or put it back with that bracket.

Thank you!
 
#5 ·
Tighten the bolts starting in the middle, jump side to side, and radiate outward toward the ends. Tighten in three steps, first to 3 lb-ft, then 6 lb-ft, then finally to 8.7 lb-ft.

Dave
 
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#6 ·
Cross bracket? Do you mean the cross member supporting the engine/trans? I don't believe that's necessary - I didn't.

As for the O2 sensor, simply disconnect the wire connection upstream of the sensor. Kind of a pain to access, but doable.
 
#9 ·
What the above post called the crank counter balance is more correctly called the harmonic balancer. It's a part of the crank pulley assembly, a mass that's separated from the pulley by a rubber cushion. It's job is to absorb some of the vibration (bad harmonics) created by the rotating parts of the engine (crank, rods, etc.).

Dave
 
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#10 ·
Much cheaper to just re-thread it and put in a Fumoto type drain valve that never needs to be taken out.
If that works, it basically takes away ever stripping out those threads again.
Buffalo4
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I was able to replace my oil pan. I bought it at the junk yard for $45. BUT! I over tighthen the bolt and break one of them. How can I remove half of the bolt that was inside hole? By the way, Everything is tight with honda rtv bond. hopefully I won't see any leak. I'm just waiting for my Fumoto bolt to come then I can put oil and test/see if there would be a leak. Any help on how to remove that bolt would be appreciated.

Thank you!
 
#12 ·
Do a search on the internet on removing a broken bolt and you will find some good info.
One way was to use an easy-out. Sometimes even trying to back it by tapping it lightly with a hammer and punch will do it, esp if no thread sealer was used.
Perhaps it will not leak at all.
Buffalo4
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Buffalo4 said:
Do a search on the internet on removing a broken bolt and you will find some good info.
One way was to use an easy-out. Sometimes even trying to back it by tapping it lightly with a hammer and punch will do it, esp if no thread sealer was used.
Perhaps it will not leak at all.
Buffalo4
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply! no sealer on the bolt. Hopefully it won't leak.

Thank you!
 
#14 ·
Great job replacing the oil pan! :bow:

You should think about getting a good torque wrench for future projects. A broken fastener or part could cost more to fix than the original repair.

Dave
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
davedrivesody said:
Great job replacing the oil pan! :bow:

You should think about getting a good torque wrench for future projects. A broken fastener or part could cost more to fix than the original repair.

Dave
Click to expand...
Thank you!
I got a torque wrench from harbor freight. That is the reason why I broke the bolt. LOL I think that wrench is for heavy duty or big bolt only.
 
#16 ·
Kulapu said:
Thank you!
I got a torque wrench from harbor freight. That is the reason why I broke the bolt. LOL I think that wrench is for heavy duty or big bolt only.
Click to expand...
Ah, the infamous HF torque wrench. Did the same exact thing with my Ody last year using that same TW. Couldn't re-thread it and had no time to do the repair myself, so had to take it to the stealership. $450 later I had a new oil pan... Was so mad that I didn't have time to do it myself, but that said, I don't have a place where I could get the van high enough to do a good enough job. Still kills me though....
 
#17 ·
That sounds like a 1/2" drive torque wrench. A smaller torque wrench (3/8" drive) will have a lower range suitable for smaller fasteners.

Remember to turn it back to its lowest setting when not in use.

Dave
 
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#18 ·
Can you access any part of the bolt? Usually they will spin out pretty easily. I've been successful using a Dremel and cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the old bolt which allowed me to turn it out with a screwdriver. I've also have removed some by tack welding a nut to the broken bolt, that one needs some of it to be exposed.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
OdyinNH said:
Can you access any part of the bolt? Usually they will spin out pretty easily. I've been successful using a Dremel and cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the old bolt which allowed me to turn it out with a screwdriver. I've also have removed some by tack welding a nut to the broken bolt, that one needs some of it to be exposed.
Click to expand...
I'm still waiting on my order fumoto. If there is no leak, I'll just leaved it like that. Just deal with it once leak occur.LOL

Thanks!
 
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Kulapu
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