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I've seen discussions here about them being lighter (ergo, better?) for the aluminum. Given that I have to do the bushings and the ball joint I'm not against getting a whole new arm and scrap-metaling the old ones.
Opinions on the Dorman brand?
Control Arm brand: opinions on this one?
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Dornier
I've seen discussions here about them being lighter (ergo, better?) for the aluminum. Given that I have to do the bushings and the ball joint I'm not against getting a whole new arm and scrap-metaling the old ones.
Opinions on the Dorman brand?
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
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I've seen discussions here about them being lighter (ergo, better?) for the aluminum. Given that I have to do the bushings and the ball joint I'm not against getting a whole new arm and scrap-metaling the old ones.
Opinions on the Dorman brand?
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1,767 Posts
I'm not sure about the quality of the Dorman Control Arms. But if you are looking for high quality stuff look for Moog or Mevotech. I believe the Moog & Mevotech are greasable. Or look for the ones that are greasable. In general when you say Dorman the quality is not the best. I agree with you in changing the whole CA assembly than changing the bushings & the ball joints alone & saving the CA. Most of the time its not worth it. Let me know.
well, i've put it on stands, wiggled the tire and got no movement on the tie rods (inner and outer feel tight). I've changed the sway bar end links and bar bushings.
still get the low speed knock.
If those don't look suspect, maybe it's the ball joints under.
still get the low speed knock.
If those don't look suspect, maybe it's the ball joints under.
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1,767 Posts
I agree with Nassbaum. The bushing in the pic might still hold for a year. When the knock occurs, does it only knock when you hit a bump on the road? It could be the ball joint as you mention. Also, try this disconnect one of the sway bank link, then drive it around see if you still get the low speed knock. Let us know.
I have never used Dorman, but I have used Mevotech control arms for my deceased Audi A6 and they were excellent, and I have found the quality of the Moog products to be exceptional. That said, if I recall the price difference for the Mevotech is not all that much and the I don't recall seeing any Moog CA. My attitude is that any time I am doing the work, I reason that part of the 'profit' is buying the best products. As far as what is knocking - control arm bushings, ball joint, sway bar link, sway bar mounts and struts are the primary culprits that I can think of. Control arm bushings are my vote seeing you have already addressed the sway bar links. Ball joint would be vote #2. And the strut bearings or simply blown strut are possible but a little easier to diagnose. Fastest diagnosis for a degrading strut is usually looking between fender and top of tire. If there is oil on the strut casing then they are done. Strut bearings (or 'cap') are harder to diagnose and seeing I have not had to do work on THIS car, I will leave that to another. Good luck.
Well i already put in new strut kits, complete, from majestic.
I think i am down to control arm and its related components.
I won't skimp--same ideology.
I have never used Dorman, but I have used Mevotech control arms for my deceased Audi A6 and they were excellent, and I have found the quality of the Moog products to be exceptional. That said, if I recall the price difference for the Mevotech is not all that much and the I don't recall seeing any Moog CA. My attitude is that any time I am doing the work, I reason that part of the 'profit' is buying the best products. As far as what is knocking - control arm bushings, ball joint, sway bar link, sway bar mounts and struts are the primary culprits that I can think of. Control arm bushings are my vote seeing you have already addressed the sway bar links. Ball joint would be vote #2. And the strut bearings or simply blown strut are possible but a little easier to diagnose. Fastest diagnosis for a degrading strut is usually looking between fender and top of tire. If there is oil on the strut casing then they are done. Strut bearings (or 'cap') are harder to diagnose and seeing I have not had to do work on THIS car, I will leave that to another. Good luck.
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416 Posts
I recently replaced most of my suspension components (Nov '15) with KYB struts/shock, strut mounts, and Mevotech Aluminum lower control arms (LCA). While I have a 2005 and the LCAs were steel units, the aluminum (off the 2008 Model) were cheaper and lighter (~6lbs per side). The ride quality is as good as new if not better.
To be honest, I find myself really enjoying the drive. Our family hauler has over 184k miles and we've put every single mile on her. Riding on H&R springs and a set of 235/60R-17 Kumho Solus TA11's, this thing is still hitting 23mpg on the Hwy at 75-80mph!!!!!!
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To be honest, I find myself really enjoying the drive. Our family hauler has over 184k miles and we've put every single mile on her. Riding on H&R springs and a set of 235/60R-17 Kumho Solus TA11's, this thing is still hitting 23mpg on the Hwy at 75-80mph!!!!!!
If you're getting the cheapest 3rd party brand for a 2005/2006 which are cast iron, it seems hard to believe that there's any difference between the control arm itself. They're cast iron. It's pretty hard to screw up cast iron in 2016. The bushings look identical as well. Again, the rubber Honda uses isn't a secret ingredient. And the only thing left is the ball joint. Pretty standard stuff.
If I was going to invest in suspension parts for this van, it would be either OEM or better struts and spring, not cast iron suspension parts.
Just my 2 cents. I used the $100 LCA's from 1A Auto, $100/side shipped. I suspect they're no better or worse than the ones from any other 3rd party.
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942 Posts
Dorman is decent, however you can also supplement and use 08+ Odyssey arms too
We're currently using Mevotech on my van and it works well.
The Mevotech is NOT greasable and some Dorman parts are worse than Moog or Mevotech.....(Few and far between but some)
On my 2003 I used Moog CK series (not their cheapest). It came with grease fitting and worked fine. However, there was some damage in shipping so it had to be returned. Inspect carefully around the stud to be sure it isn't damaged. they don't box them very well and they are heavy/awkward to ship. I don't see the CK (or K) series at my favorite online store..RockA. hmmm Personally, I would stay away from the cheapest.
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3 Posts
I installed 2 moog front lower control arm after 12/23/2014 for my 2007 Honda Odyssey Touring. Both arms have had their bushings fail already the part numbers were Moog RK620504 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly and Moog RK620505 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly bought them each for less than 110. OEM is over $300 each. Any suggestions on replacement or why this may have happened?
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