I have a 2012 Touring Elite and one of the HID bulbs burned out. I picked up a pair of 6k D2S bulbs from amazon but have not installed them yet. I searched all over for some instructions on how to do it and couldn't find much info. Has anybody successfully DIY'd this bulb replacement? Unless someone can convince me I can DIY it, I am considering taking my car to the shop and paying someone to do it.
DIY: HID Bulb replacement for Touring Elite
rocknyc
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I have a 2012 Touring Elite and one of the HID bulbs burned out. I picked up a pair of 6k D2S bulbs from amazon but have not installed them yet. I searched all over for some instructions on how to do it and couldn't find much info. Has anybody successfully DIY'd this bulb replacement? Unless someone can convince me I can DIY it, I am considering taking my car to the shop and paying someone to do it.
Maybe this can assist you:
https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2011_Honda_Odyssey_EX-L_3.5L_V6/lights/headlight
https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2011_Honda_Odyssey_EX-L_3.5L_V6/lights/headlight
Thanks for the link. I've seen that one. That's for halogen bulbs. Doesn't give any instruction for HIDs. Only thing it says is "Some Hondas have high intensity discharge headlights, sometimes referred to as xenon lights. These bulbs have a very high voltage that runs through them, even if the battery is disconnected. If your Odyssey has this type of bulb, we do not recommend that you attempt to change it yourself."
The link below for Acura TL but you have the same HID setup. Just watch starting from 8min 36 seconds that will provide you good understanding of how to remove and put things back together. You need to remove air intake piece at the driver side to be able access back of the headlight.
But before start I would suggest to check the fuses of the Low beam lights. If the fuses are fine, then you can proceed with the bulb replacement. However; I'd like to remind you that HID system work with very high voltage 25-28K VAC. So just be careful and make sure you put the electrician gloves and safety googles on.
Now the steps you'll be following are basically
- remove the negative wire from the battery
- remove the airintake piece from the driver side if you work on the driver side
- remove the cap from headlight housing - I think it should be rotated in counter clock wise
- remove the igniter - it should be removed by rotating it counter clock wise then pull out
- you may need to remove the grounding wire of Igniter from the projector
- release the retainer clip by pushing and pinching down from either end of the wire clip
- Now you should be able to slowly pull the D2S bulb out
and you'll do reverse the steps above to place the new one in and make sure not touching the glass tube of the bulb. Replacing HID bulbs are a little painful compared to the halogens but at least you don't have to remove to many things to get to the bulb like in some other make and models
I hope you bought a good quality HID bulbs. Most of the aftermarkets bulbs at Amazon are cheap, unreliable and color temperatures are not accurate. I wouldn't suggest 6000 K bulbs too, they have a blue tint and tends to get more blueish after break in. I would stick with 4300K or so for higher light output and better illumination specially during the inclined weather.
if you decide to take your car to a shop, I would go with an base OEM bulb (Philips 85122 or Osram 66240) that is cheaper than labor and would last longer than any aftermarket bulb out there.
But before start I would suggest to check the fuses of the Low beam lights. If the fuses are fine, then you can proceed with the bulb replacement. However; I'd like to remind you that HID system work with very high voltage 25-28K VAC. So just be careful and make sure you put the electrician gloves and safety googles on.
Now the steps you'll be following are basically
- remove the negative wire from the battery
- remove the airintake piece from the driver side if you work on the driver side
- remove the cap from headlight housing - I think it should be rotated in counter clock wise
- remove the igniter - it should be removed by rotating it counter clock wise then pull out
- you may need to remove the grounding wire of Igniter from the projector
- release the retainer clip by pushing and pinching down from either end of the wire clip
- Now you should be able to slowly pull the D2S bulb out
and you'll do reverse the steps above to place the new one in and make sure not touching the glass tube of the bulb. Replacing HID bulbs are a little painful compared to the halogens but at least you don't have to remove to many things to get to the bulb like in some other make and models
I hope you bought a good quality HID bulbs. Most of the aftermarkets bulbs at Amazon are cheap, unreliable and color temperatures are not accurate. I wouldn't suggest 6000 K bulbs too, they have a blue tint and tends to get more blueish after break in. I would stick with 4300K or so for higher light output and better illumination specially during the inclined weather.
if you decide to take your car to a shop, I would go with an base OEM bulb (Philips 85122 or Osram 66240) that is cheaper than labor and would last longer than any aftermarket bulb out there.
The passenger side bulb went out. without removing the wiper fluid reservoir, there is very little room for me to do anything on that side. i can barely fit my hand into the area where the light bulb connector is. i looked up directions on removing the wiper fluid reservoir and there's no way i am going to go through the trouble to replace a light bulb. hopefully it won't cost too much to replace both bulbs.
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9,924 Posts
+1. :worship: +1
My aftermarket 4300k D2S capsules from TRS have color shifted a lot over the last few years. Definitely, the TRS offerings are not OEM quality D2S bulbs. They are probably closer to 5500k or even 6000k now, which means I don't get near the usable light I used to get when they were new. I drive some pitch black roads....black asphalt, no lighting, and if there's no moonlight on top of all that with an overcast and no starlight, it's really stinking dark.
My now-bluish aftermarket TRS D2S bulbs currently suck on those dark nights where I really need the illumination. Head-to-head on the same dark roads, my wife's 2002 with H4 Philips X-Treme Vision +100% bulbs does better than my 2003 fitted with Mini-D2S projectors because of the %$#@! color-shift to blue tints.
I now have a set of Osram 66240's on my desk, and will install these very high quality (at a good price) D2S bulbs when I get my van back from bumper repairs (got rear ended by a jeep a few weeks ago).
OF
I ordered a cheapo pair of 6k bulbs from amazon but after reading the advice of Prizm, i am going to return them. I ordered a pair of Phillips 85122 bulbs he recommended. i don't want to pay a lot of money to have bulbs installed and then have them blow out prematurely b/c they were low quality bulbs. Would rather go high quality and not worry about it.
I hear you. the extruded headlight housing of the TE blocks your way accessing from side way. You have to reach out straight next to the windshield fluid reservoir but I think you may be able to work in there without completely removing it. The neck of the reservoir fixed to the chassis with a plastic clip. When you remove the clip you may be able to push the neck of the reservoir away to get a little more room in there. It is a long plastic neck that must be flexible enough to push it away a little bit.
You can remove the plastic clips wit a flat head screwdriver but be slow and gentle on it because plastic clips are very brittle. see the slots on the head of clip where you can get the tip of screw driver slide in and gently pry out. If it is resisting slowly pry out from one side a little bit and work from the other slot at the opposite end; back and forth you'll be able to get it out
good call on the OEM bulb. More expensive but it pays back in short time. As Odyfamily stated aftermarket bulbs; even some respected presumably good quality ones are still hit or miss and won't perform appropriately after awhile.
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9,924 Posts
And....how are those Philips 85122's doing for you?
I think Philips starts them towards 4200k, and as they quickly burn in during initial use, you get a true 4300k color temp.
Unlike cheap plug-and-play HID capsules, the Philips and Osram offerings have a large quantity of the metal salts in the capsule necessary for good light output characteristics over the life of the HID capsule.
White light beats blue any day (or night).
OF
I think Philips starts them towards 4200k, and as they quickly burn in during initial use, you get a true 4300k color temp.
Unlike cheap plug-and-play HID capsules, the Philips and Osram offerings have a large quantity of the metal salts in the capsule necessary for good light output characteristics over the life of the HID capsule.
White light beats blue any day (or night).
OF
Passenger-side HID bulb went out on my 2011 Elite. Would dim to a pinkish hue and go out after a few minutes.
I read instructions on this page and decided to do it myself.
Bought a Philips 85122 ($35 each). Original was an Osram ($70 each on Amazon, $120 each at dealer). Although they say to replace in pairs, I am doing only one this time.
Writing my steps in case any one stumbles on this page again.
Remove negative terminal. You have to remove air intake manifold (held by 2 plastic clips) first.
Remove power-steering oil tank (white plastic, with red cap) from its clip and shove it away so it is not in the way.
Remove clip on Wiper fluid tank and push it away a bit.
[If Honda could only make this goose-neck in 2 parts with threaded connection somewhere below, it would have been a whole lot easier.]
The rest was easy. You will have to work blindly though. Watch you-tube video to understand the parts.
Twist open the cover with warning sticker on it.
Remove grounding wire clip (it was a little tricky to pluck it out)
Twist-open the holder. Open retainer clips and take bulb out.
Replace with new bulb, put retainer clips back on and twist-close the holder.
Above steps took not more than 15 minutes.
The hard part for me was putting the grounding wire back on. I spent 2 hours trying to put in back. But could not. Maybe my clip was damaged and was not holding in place.
Finally, I gave up and closed the light without attaching the grounding wire back.
When I turned on the light, to my surprise, it worked. So I am not going to worry too much about it.
So, basically its a 15-20 minute job. DIY.
If grounding wire doesn't clip back on, don't fret about it. The light works without it being connected.
Hope this helps somebody.
I read instructions on this page and decided to do it myself.
Bought a Philips 85122 ($35 each). Original was an Osram ($70 each on Amazon, $120 each at dealer). Although they say to replace in pairs, I am doing only one this time.
Writing my steps in case any one stumbles on this page again.
Remove negative terminal. You have to remove air intake manifold (held by 2 plastic clips) first.
Remove power-steering oil tank (white plastic, with red cap) from its clip and shove it away so it is not in the way.
Remove clip on Wiper fluid tank and push it away a bit.
[If Honda could only make this goose-neck in 2 parts with threaded connection somewhere below, it would have been a whole lot easier.]
The rest was easy. You will have to work blindly though. Watch you-tube video to understand the parts.
Twist open the cover with warning sticker on it.
Remove grounding wire clip (it was a little tricky to pluck it out)
Twist-open the holder. Open retainer clips and take bulb out.
Replace with new bulb, put retainer clips back on and twist-close the holder.
Above steps took not more than 15 minutes.
The hard part for me was putting the grounding wire back on. I spent 2 hours trying to put in back. But could not. Maybe my clip was damaged and was not holding in place.
Finally, I gave up and closed the light without attaching the grounding wire back.
When I turned on the light, to my surprise, it worked. So I am not going to worry too much about it.
So, basically its a 15-20 minute job. DIY.
If grounding wire doesn't clip back on, don't fret about it. The light works without it being connected.
Hope this helps somebody.
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