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2005 Odyssey EX-L front right turn signal/hazard lamp not working

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38K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Brian327  
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#1 ·
I searched this forum and found a few threads on this topic, but none of the solutions worked for me. Here's the problem:

The front right turn signal bulb does not flash when activated by the turn signal switch, nor when the hazard lights are on. The rear right turn signal bulb works fine. The green right turn signal indicator arrow lamp on the dashboard flashes fast.

Here's what I tried:

* Swapped bulb with a known good bulb
* Swapped bulb receptacles
* Replaced turn signal relay with new relay
* Cleaned ground wire connectors located to the right of the radiator

None of these things fixed the problem. :huh: Does anyone have a electrical schematic that can be used to troubleshoot this ?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Sure. You can get free wiring diagrams from here:

BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

Here's a direct link to the diagram you need:

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=115508

I would use a test light to check the power and ground coming into the bulb to determine which side the problem is on. A test light is better than a DMM as a DMM can still show good voltage but the circuit might not carry the load (bad ground or broken/dirty connection.)

I'd do the following:

Connect a test light to the positive side of the battery. Probe the light socket (carefully) and see if you can light a test light on either of the contacts. It should be the black wire but sometimes it's hard to know which terminal in the socket is which. If neither side lights the test light then the ground side is the problem. The ground is G201 and is located under the right front of engine compartment. You may have to remove the splash shield to get to it. My bet is on the ground.

However, if you have a good ground then focus on the positive side (brown wire.) Since the rear works, and the indicator works, that only leaves the portion of the positive side that goes through the underhood fuse box and to the bulb. It goes in at E1 and out at F20. Let's hope it's the ground as that might be a bit more work to test and repair.
 
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#3 ·
John, thanks for the quick response and for posting those links.

Since it was a stretch to reach the positive side of the battery from the right front flasher socket, I placed the test lamp between an "always hot" terminal on the main under-hood fuse box, and each of the terminals of the front right turn signal bulb socket, one at a time. The test lamp lit when connected to the brown with grey tracer wire terminal, but did not light when connected to the black with grey tracer wire terminal.
 
#4 ·
So, it sounds like the wire colors don't match the diagram. It's not unusual to get a ground indication from a hot wire like that. NEE seen that when testing other circuits. The black with grey is probably ground and it sounds like the ground isn't there.

Test the other wire by connecting your test light to a good ground and then turn on the signal and see if you get turn signal power.
 
#6 · (Edited)
First check the socket and the wiring going into the socket to make sure there's no problem with the socket. If the socket is fine then remove the splash shield under the engine. There are about 4-6 grounds that attach to the body between the engine crossmember frame and the radiator support, just below the AC compressor. You might be able to see them without removing the splash shield but you'll probably need to remove it to repair it anyway. The right turn signal ground is attached there. Also, the grounds for the right front parking light, right headlight (low and high,) and the fan control relay are also there.
 
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#7 ·
I removed the bulb from the socket and connected an ohmmeter between the bulb socket ground terminal and the multi-ground connector near the radiator, and saw 0.01 ohms (continuity mode also yielded a beep tone). I then connected the ohmmeter between the bulb socket ground terminal and the known good ground point from my previous post, and also got 0.01 ohms. Not sure what this means - I thought for sure the ground was bad, but it doesn't seem to be. (Note that I had sanded and cleaned that multi-ground connector with electronic contact cleaner yesterday. I also cleaned the part of the car frame where the ground connector makes contact.) I replaced the bulb and retested with the right turn signal switch, right front turn signal bulb still does not light. Not sure what this means - it doesn't make sense.
 
#8 ·
It makes perfect sense from an electrical standpoint. This is why ohm testing doesn't work in situations like this for higher amperage circuits like a light bulb. The ground is broken or corroded somewhere and giving a huge voltage drop across it.

Let's just say, for argument's sake only, there are 20 strands of wire inside this particular ground wire. Let's just say for argument's sake, that all but one strand are broken and all that's connecting the circuit is one single tiny strand of wire. If you use your ohm meter to check it it will show a perfect 0.01 ohms. The only problem is that one strand of wire won't carry the current needed to light the light. The same principle applies if there is corrosion. It's the same as if just one tiny strand of wire was left connecting the circuit. You MUST check these circuits loaded, with voltage across them, meaning using a test light. Your DMM doesn't send enough current through the wire to check if it can carry a load.

Your earlier test using the test light connected to a good ground and then probing the signal wire coming in proved that the positive signal wire coming in is good, which proves that the ground is bad. Either the wire is broken or it is very corroded at the connection. You can connect your test light to battery positive (then touch a known good ground to test your test light) and probe that ground wire and I'll bet it won't light the test light. If the ground was good the test light would light, just as it does when you test the test light on a known good ground.
 
#9 ·
Here's another test you can do. Connect the test light to battery positive (don't forget to touch the test light probe to a known good ground to test the test light and test your positive connection.) Now touch the ground wires on the ground port underneath the car. Try different spots. Try the bolt that holds them all together. It's probably good. Now try each connector on the individual wires. Look for a connector that doesn't light the light. If the test light lights down there but doesn't light at the socket then the problem is somewhere in between. You just have to find the bad spot.
 
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#10 ·
I cut the existing ground wire near the back of the bulb socket (leaving a few inches of wire) and connected a new ground wire between the bulb socket and the car chassis. The turn signal now works perfectly. Thanks for the help ! Valuable lesson learned regarding the use of the test lamp vs. ohmmeter.
 
#11 ·
That's one way to fix it....not how I'd fix it but you're back on the road. It just makes it a little tougher for the next tech who works on it thinking the ground will be under the splash shield. Just make sure you have a good ground that won't corrode or get the green crusties in a few months or a year.

Aside from that, if you've learned a lesson from this you're further ahead than many here. I've tried to explain in other threads why ohm testing often isn't a good test but many don't listen. To be honest, up until just this past year I didn't own a test light. I always thought my DMM was a better tool. I've been educating myself and have since learned the error of my ways. It's nice to pass along the knowledge to someone else.
 
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#21 ·
John Clark said:
That's one way to fix it....not how I'd fix it but you're back on the road. It just makes it a little tougher for the next tech who works on it thinking the ground will be under the splash shield. Just make sure you have a good ground that won't corrode or get the green crusties in a few months or a year.

Aside from that, if you've learned a lesson from this you're further ahead than many here. I've tried to explain in other threads why ohm testing often isn't a good test but many don't listen. To be honest, up until just this past year I didn't own a test light. I always thought my DMM was a better tool. I've been educating myself and have since learned the error of my ways. It's nice to pass along the knowledge to someone else.
Click to expand...
John Clark said:
That's one way to fix it....not how I'd fix it but you're back on the road. It just makes it a little tougher for the next tech who works on it thinking the ground will be under the splash shield. Just make sure you have a good ground that won't corrode or get the green crusties in a few months or a year.

Aside from that, if you've learned a lesson from this you're further ahead than many here. I've tried to explain in other threads why ohm testing often isn't a good test but many don't listen. To be honest, up until just this past year I didn't own a test light. I always thought my DMM was a better tool. I've been educating myself and have since learned the error of my ways. It's nice to pass along the knowledge to someone else.
Click to expand...
 
#17 ·
I'm having a similar situation. My right side turn signal is out, both front and rear bulbs do not light and the indicator on the dashboard does not light up or even make the clicking sound. Left side works fine. I have a test light but before I begin checking around I thought I'd ask and see if the dashboard not lighting up either helps narrow down the search. I am very uncertain when dealing with electrical systems, so I hope it's easy to figure out. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
Have you tried the troubleshooting steps in this thread? One person's fix may not apply to your exact problem. You may have power but not a proper ground.
 
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