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Do I really need to have inline fuse for S-VCM? I just saw the VCMTUNER II and I see it came with one. However, I have the SVCM. Did I just buy the wrong one :(
No, I really don't think you need to have an inline fuse with S-VCM; I don't have one on ours. Like silverctr says, it's more of a peace of mind thing.

You didn't buy the wrong thing - the S-VCM controller will work just fine. It and the VCMTuner II function exactly the same in terms of disabling VCM. The VCMTuner II has the extra couple of functions that become handy when certain repairs come up. But day in and day out, they're both very good at their intended purpose of making sure VCM never activates.
 
After reading the posts, I got the VCM Tuner II to replace my Verbatim Muzzler. Haven't seen an ECO light. Really interested in the coolant level feature. Anybody know anything about that? I had the Muzzler on when I lost all my coolant (lower radiator hose clamp went).
 
Do you believe your original Muzzler caused you any issue or inaccurate temperature reading when you lost your lower coolant hose? Not sure I understand why you replaced it.
 
Do you believe your original Muzzler caused you any issue or inaccurate temperature reading when you lost your lower coolant hose? Not sure I understand why you replaced it.
Not sure. Didn't get much of any warning. Even put the muzzler on the new engine. One issue is that when driving in hot weather, I had the ECO light come on a few times. It's just an improvement--install and forget.
 
Hello. Where can I get this VCMTuner II kit? Also does it come with installation instructions? I hope this will solve my 2006 touring VSA engine alert, and body extreme vibration at the speed between 45mph - 65mph only. Thank you
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
After reading the posts, I got the VCM Tuner II to replace my Verbatim Muzzler. Haven't seen an ECO light. Really interested in the coolant level feature. Anybody know anything about that? I had the Muzzler on when I lost all my coolant (lower radiator hose clamp went).
The manual says the Blue wire "is intended to be utilized with an optional add-on for an engine coolant level alarm which is in development." There is more information in this same section 1.11 of the manual about the Blue wire.

You might want to send an E-mail to Brock Eastman at: info@vcmtuner.com to find out about availability or more details. I've exchanged a few emails with him and found him to be pretty responsive.

It would be great if you would share the information you learn in this thread.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Hello. Where can I get this VCMTuner II kit? Also does it come with installation instructions? I hope this will solve my 2006 touring VSA engine alert, and body extreme vibration at the speed between 45mph - 65mph only. Thank you
It seems like you may need to do some troubleshooting on your problem first. What codes were generated?

The VCMTUNER II is purchased from the www.vcmtuner.com web site. It comes with a manual having installation instructions and quite a bit of other information.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Do I really need to have inline fuse for S-VCM? I just saw the VCMTUNER II and I see it came with one. However, I have the SVCM. Did I just buy the wrong one :(
No, sorry for the confusion.

I mentioned the fuse because I had read in other threads that people had added them to the S-VCM themselves for peace of mind. If you were planning on getting an S-VCM and adding an inline fuse to it anyway, the price premium of the VCMTUNER II is smaller because it comes with an inline fuse.
 
Hello. Where can I get this VCMTuner II kit? Also does it come with installation instructions? I hope this will solve my 2006 touring VSA engine alert, and body extreme vibration at the speed between 45mph - 65mph only. Thank you
It seems like you may need to do some troubleshooting on your problem first. What codes were generated?

The VCMTUNER II is purchased from the www.vcmtuner.com web site. It comes with a manual having installation instructions and quite a bit of other information.

My 2006 Touring has check engine light on with the following single code:
P2646 A Rocker Arm Actuator System
Performance/Stuck Off Bank 1

Then VSA light/warning pops up after driving a couple miles or so.

Also the whole van shakes/vibrates on the freeway ONLY during accelerating speed between 45mph-65mph.

I am hoping the VCMTurner will fix this or any other tips will greatly appreciated!
Thanks
 
My 2006 Touring has check engine light on with the following single code:
P2646 A Rocker Arm Actuator System
Performance/Stuck Off Bank 1

Then VSA light/warning pops up after driving a couple miles or so.

Also the whole van shakes/vibrates on the freeway ONLY during accelerating speed between 45mph-65mph.

I am hoping the VCMTurner will fix this or any other tips will greatly appreciated!
Thanks
None of those items will be affected by the VCMTunerII. I would check the oil level first, change the oil and filter if the level isn't the issue, reset the codes either with a scan tool or disconnecting the battery, and then drive it and see if it comes back. If the code comes back then you have an issue with the VTEC/VCM system.

As for the shaking, if it's only under acceleration, that sounds like worn axle shaft(s.)
 
My 2006 Touring has check engine light on with the following single code:
P2646 A Rocker Arm Actuator System
Performance/Stuck Off Bank 1

Then VSA light/warning pops up after driving a couple miles or so.

Also the whole van shakes/vibrates on the freeway ONLY during accelerating speed between 45mph-65mph.

I am hoping the VCMTurner will fix this or any other tips will greatly appreciated!
Thanks
None of those items will be affected by the VCMTunerII. I would check the oil level first, change the oil and filter if the level isn't the issue, reset the codes either with a scan tool or disconnecting the battery, and then drive it and see if it comes back. If the code comes back then you have an issue with the VTEC/VCM system.

As for the shaking, if it's only under acceleration, that sounds like worn axle shaft(s.)
Thank you for the tips.

Do you know if there’s a thread which has info on fixing VTECH/VCM system? Also do you recommend after market axle shafts?

A 2006, touring model with all options, 230,000+ miles, and original owner, it seems to be in very good shape. Therefore we decided to have the transmission replaced less than a year for about $4k. It is very costly to get rid now. It probably does not worth the transmission cost!
 
Just as an fyi, I was having similar issues and mine was fixed with an oil change and oil filter change.
I would get those codes and those symptoms but after running it awhile it would randomly pop up once I stopped.

I believe my issue with thinning of the oil due to using b12 in the cylinders trying to free up the piston rings. So YMMV but always worth a shot as it's not an expensive attempt at the repair.
 
Does the VCMTuner II effectively eliminate the known issues related to the Class Action Lawsuit?

I'm looking at a 2009 Odyssey with only 28,000 miles. It is outside of the 8 year extended warranty and has tons of potential to be a cost saver but also require maintenance due to the engine misfiring, engine mounts, oil consumption, and spark plug fouling.

Does the VCMTuner help solve this concern?

Thanks!
 
Does the VCMTuner II effectively eliminate the known issues related to the Class Action Lawsuit?

I'm looking at a 2009 Odyssey with only 28,000 miles. It is outside of the 8 year extended warranty and has tons of potential to be a cost saver but also require maintenance due to the engine misfiring, engine mounts, oil consumption, and spark plug fouling.

Does the VCMTuner help solve this concern?

Thanks!
In a single word, yes. But a 10 year old van with only 28,000 miles is more likely to have a different style of problem related to idleness rather than activity. VCM won't be the source of troubles and if you disable it, that will remain true for a long time to come.
 
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In a single word, yes. But a 10 year old van with only 28,000 miles is more likely to have a different style of problem related to idleness rather than activity. VCM won't be the source of troubles and if you disable it, that will remain true for a long time to come.
Are the issues related to a lack of use remedied with maintenance and would they show in an inspection?
 
Are the issues related to a lack of use remedied with maintenance and would they show in an inspection?
Yes, they should show up in a mechanical inspection. I'm thinking of things like dried out rubber seals, hoses, belts, weatherstripping, even tires. I would think a good mechanic would notice stuff like that, but you could mention that it concerns you that the van must have been fairly idle for a long time to have such little mileage and have them pay special attention to stuff that degrades just by the passage of time.
 
After reading the posts, I got the VCM Tuner II to replace my Verbatim Muzzler. Haven't seen an ECO light. Really interested in the coolant level feature. Anybody know anything about that? I had the Muzzler on when I lost all my coolant (lower radiator hose clamp went).
I did the same thing, replaced my VCMuzzler with the VCM Tuner II. Never had any problems with the VCMuzzler though.
 
I ordered my VCM Tuner 2 earlier this week. I certainly hope it’s easy to connect ‘cause I’m not a mechanic. Applying this to my new 2019 Odyssey.
If there are codes thrown, and I hope they aren’t, how does one go about clearing them?
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I ordered my VCM Tuner 2 earlier this week. I certainly hope it’s easy to connect ‘cause I’m not a mechanic. Applying this to my new 2019 Odyssey.
If there are codes thrown, and I hope they aren’t, how does one go about clearing them?
The instructions are pretty good and there is a section "1.10 Avoid Check Engine light (P0118) code on installation" which recommends you turn off the vehicle, pop the hood and leave the van without the key in the ignition for 15-30 minutes before installing it. It says after this time the ECU will stop monitoring the ECT circuit and no code should be generated. I followed this and no code was generated when I installed mine.

If a code is generated, it should clear after some time by itself. If you don't have a scan tool, and besides disconnecting the - battery cable, you could always go to an auto parts store where they can read and clear codes for you at no charge.
 
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