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DanW

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2014 EXL
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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anyone use an alternative power source to connect the VCM TUNER II? I have 2014 EXL and the only way to connect the ring terminal to the positive battery post is the 10mm bolt used to clamp the cable to the car battery. I thought there was another bolt under the plastic cover to connect the ring terminal but there is not. I tried connecting it to the bolt on the cable clamp but it interferes with the plastic cover no matter how I bend the ring terminal not to mention it looks hokie and I also see nothing but future problems with corrosion with this connection. Is there another source available under the hood or do I have to run a line to a fuse panel inside the car??
 
Anyone use an alternative power source to connect the VCM TUNER II? I have 2014 EXL and the only way to connect the ring terminal to the positive battery post is the 10mm bolt used to clamp the cable to the car battery. I thought there was another bolt under the plastic cover to connect the ring terminal but there is not. I tried connecting it to the bolt on the cable clamp but it interferes with the plastic cover no matter how I bend the ring terminal not to mention it looks hokie and I also see nothing but future problems with corrosion with this connection. Is there another source available under the hood or do I have to run a line to a fuse panel inside the car??
put it on the back of the battery post bolt, that's what I did with my amp wire and the cover snaps down ok.
 
My original pos terminal became deformed and could not be tightened sufficiently. I then replaced it with one of these. I now have a terminal connection for the main wire, the amp wire, and two smaller wires. I don't currently have the VCMTuner II but if I buy one at some point, I will have a connection for it.
155890
 
Anyone use an alternative power source to connect the VCM TUNER II? I have 2014 EXL and the only way to connect the ring terminal to the positive battery post is the 10mm bolt used to clamp the cable to the car battery. I thought there was another bolt under the plastic cover to connect the ring terminal but there is not. I tried connecting it to the bolt on the cable clamp but it interferes with the plastic cover no matter how I bend the ring terminal not to mention it looks hokie and I also see nothing but future problems with corrosion with this connection. Is there another source available under the hood or do I have to run a line to a fuse panel inside the car??
The plastic cover over the positive terminal is not to prevent/address corrosion but is to prevent inadvertent shorting/arcing of the positive terminal with any of the surrounding metal body/engine parts.

I am not sure but I may have cut away part of the red plastic cover so that it would clear the power line to the VCM device (getting this confused with a mod that I did on another vehicle, so I may NOT have shaved a bit of the cover off). As seen in the second photo, I bent the ring connector to better fit between the terminal and the nut. The first photo is with the terminal cover closed. The second is with the cover up--the separation between the two ends of the cable connector is a result of deformation caused by battery replacements--the nut is as tight as it can get and the battery connector is snug and doesn't budge. Hope this helps. .
Image
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all of your suggestion. I think I'm going to wire it into the fuse box to the left of the battery as someone suggested on my different but the same thread. There is a unused live fuse terminal inside it but I may have to lengthen the wire to make it fit.

FYI, I started this thread, posted it and edited it for some misspellings and it disappeared so I rewrote it. So there are two thread with my same question.
 
You can also buy battery post shims that will solve the issue of the terminal not tightening down. The original battery used has a slightly bigger positive battery post. All the replacements are smaller and the terminal doesn't fit. The shims are an easy fix.
 
I have a 2016. I did see a video of someone attaching the power lead to the fuse box. It does make for a cleaner fit, and if someone replaces the battery later, the Tuner II does not come into play with the connector. I left mine for now on the battery, but may move it to fuse box when the weather cools down here.
 
I have a 2016. I did see a video of someone attaching the power lead to the fuse box. It does make for a cleaner fit, and if someone replaces the battery later, the Tuner II does not come into play with the connector. I left mine for now on the battery, but may move it to fuse box when the weather cools down here.
please take some pics...
 
And cheap, too:


$2.69 as of this post. Much cheaper and better than hacking off the OEM clamp. The ONLY way to properly fix one of those is to replace the entire wire assembly. Clamp on ones just corrode.
this place keeps teaching me stuff daily...
(y)
No kidding! I'm always learning new things around here. For those of us in Canada, battery post shims like these are available off-the-shelf at Canadian Tire. Saw them yesterday.
 
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Ball peen hammer (or facsimile) to the top of the battery post to mushroom the post a bit is a quick/easy fix too for a loose terminal connection.
Is this really OK to do? I've always been afraid to hit the battery with a hammer. I always thought it could crack a plate or something.
 
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I’m curious about the “import duties” as shown on that website. I plan to order one soon and I’m in Canada.
Who here has had one shipped to Canada - and was there duty payable upon delivery? UPS is famous for their duty&brokerage fee is why I’m asking.
 
I’m curious about the “import duties” as shown on that website. I plan to order one soon and I’m in Canada.
Who here has had one shipped to Canada - and was there duty payable upon delivery? UPS is famous for their duty&brokerage fee is why I’m asking.
The S-VCM controller is made in and shipped from suburban Montreal. Great product and very straightforward shipping.
 
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