Valve cover Gasket Replacement, need help

Abarmard · Jan 26, 2021

Ted said:
All that for not much more than what a dealer would charge for the valve adjustment. But it should provide several years of quiet, dependable, trouble free service. Good work!

One question: Why change the PS pump as PM? The cost is not trivial. The location is readily accessible if and when it does fail, and I've rarely heard mention of PS pump failures. I would have more confidence in a working OE than a no-name new or reman.

I'll refurbish the Old PS with new seals, gaskets, Bearing, etc. All standby to use if needed. The one I bought from Amazon was only $79.

jiantao · Jan 26, 2021

The PS pumps were actually quite a common problem with the 3rd gen Odysseys.

The aftermarket ones don't seem much better, though. What brand did you purchase and do you notice any improvement with the steering response?

Abarmard · Jan 26, 2021

thscott said:
Good going. FYI, because you cleaned the throttle body, if you are experiencing any idle issues, you may need to run a throttle relearn procedure using a bidirectional scan tool. Doesn't sound like you are however.

Would check engine light go on, if there is any trouble with the idle/Throttle boday? What kind of Idle issues would I expect in that case?
Thank you

Abarmard · Jan 26, 2021

thscott said:
Good going. FYI, because you cleaned the throttle body, if you are experiencing any idle issues, you may need to run a throttle relearn procedure using a bidirectional scan tool. Doesn't sound like you are however.

Would check engine light go on, if there is any trouble with the idle/Throttle boday

jiantao said:
The PS pumps were actually quite a common problem with the 3rd gen Odysseys.

The aftermarket ones don't seem much better, though. What brand did you purchase and do you notice any improvement with the steering response?

I used this one;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD6TDB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thus far it runs very smoothly. By the way, refurbishing the old OEM one cost about $30-40, including the bearing and changing it back to the original OEM won't take long either. We will see.

WiiMaster · Jan 27, 2021

jiantao said:
The PS pumps were actually quite a common problem with the 3rd gen Odysseys.

And really quite a few other Hondas of this vintage as well.

jiantao · Jan 27, 2021

WiiMaster said:
And really quite a few other Hondas of this vintage as well.

True, I was kind of put off by how common PS pump problems were. Toyotas rarely have problems with power steering pumps... almost never.

But, some Toyotas (especially the Sienna) have problems with their PS racks. Funny how that works out. No thanks, I'd rather replace a pump.

Abarmard · Jan 27, 2021

thscott said:
Good going. FYI, because you cleaned the throttle body, if you are experiencing any idle issues, you may need to run a throttle relearn procedure using a bidirectional scan tool. Doesn't sound like you are however.

By the way, although I had no problem with idling and no code was showing on my dash, Yesterday I ran the Idle Learning Procedure on my Odyssey. It took about 15 minutes. All good now. I had no idea that it was necessary. Thank you very much for letting me know.

Ted · Jan 27, 2021

Did you use a scan tool or some alternative method?

Abarmard · Jan 27, 2021

Ted said:
Did you use a scan tool or some alternative method?

There are a few clips on youtube. I did the 5 minutes idle at 3000 RPM followed by 2 cycles of fan on and off, followed by 10 minutes normal idle. No OBD II tool

surgeon · Jan 27, 2021

I remember doing similar relearn procedure during work on 01 ody. I think it is actually written in the DIY maint forum.

alpha1976 · May 25, 2025

scottn3 said:
The trick to getting the rear valve cover off is to take the power steering pump off so that you can remove the wiring harness bolt under it. This little bolt holds down the wiring harness that is in the way of the cover. Just remove two bolts on the PS pump an you’ll see it. No need to drain and disconnect the hoses. Well worth the 5 min to save all that hassle.

How do you remove the power steering pump without removing the serpentine belt? I am guessing I am not sure which two bolts to remove. I can't get the rear valve gasket out because of the harness. Please help.

FlorOdy · May 25, 2025

alpha1976 said:
How do you remove the power steering pump without removing the serpentine belt? I am guessing I am not sure which two bolts to remove. I can't get the rear valve gasket out because of the harness. Please help.

I can’t imagine removing the power steering pump without taking the belt off first. Maybe it’s possible but it’s easy to get the belt off - just depends on your model. If it’s an EX-L there’s a 19MM welded nut on the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly that you push with a long ratchet or breaker bar, etc., towards the firewall of the van, slowly. Once it’s all the way pushed / bottoms out, you remove the belt. Then yeah there’s two 12MM bolts for the pump. If you’re looking at the pump from the passenger side of the van, one is to the left, and one is basically under the pulley itself. Again they’re 12 MM, the one on the left is pretty easy to get to, the one under the pulley is harder. I think I used a set of extensions to get to it.

You may want to remove the 10MM bolt to the high pressure hose (it’s back kinda near the firewall), or remove it entirely from the pump, so you don’t put pressure on it. And you may want to remove the line that goes to the reservoir too, for the same reason and to give you more clearance.

When I remove the pump for timing belt purposes I set it on the top of the engine / intake manifold, but I don’t think you’ll be able to do that in this case.

Good luck!

alpha1976 · May 26, 2025

FlorOdy said:
I can’t imagine removing the power steering pump without taking the belt off first. Maybe it’s possible but it’s easy to get the belt off - just depends on your model. If it’s an EX-L there’s a 19MM welded nut on the serpentine belt idler pulley assembly that you push with a long ratchet or breaker bar, etc., towards the firewall of the van, slowly. Once it’s all the way pushed / bottoms out, you remove the belt. Then yeah there’s two 12MM bolts for the pump. If you’re looking at the pump from the passenger side of the van, one is to the left, and one is basically under the pulley itself. Again they’re 12 MM, the one on the left is pretty easy to get to, the one under the pulley is harder. I think I used a set of extensions to get to it.

You may want to remove the 10MM bolt to the high pressure hose (it’s back kinda near the firewall), or remove it entirely from the pump, so you don’t put pressure on it. And you may want to remove the line that goes to the reservoir too, for the same reason and to give you more clearance.

When I remove the pump for timing belt purposes I set it on the top of the engine / intake manifold, but I don’t think you’ll be able to do that in this case.

Good luck!

Thank you. I had to remove the pulley to get to the bottom 12mm. The other option was to remove the low-pressure hose, but then an oily mess was unavoidable. The valve cover barely came out even after removing the harness. What a pain.

tigger240 · May 26, 2025

The rear valve cover is a total pita to pull off and replace.

The power steering pump can be removed without removing the pulley or the low pressure hose. A standard deep well 12mm 3/8 socket will fit with a 3/8 ratchet. You are slightly blind to the bolt but if you get the right angle you will see it and can get the socket on the bolt - just fyi.

surgeon · Jun 2, 2025

I also have this to do on a spare weekend. Yeah I also remember using a standard socket not need and still got it out using extension. I did not have my deep sockets at the time. I used 1/4 drive 12mm I think.

Valve cover Gasket Replacement, need help

Amazon.com: MAHLE VS50428 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Set: Automotive

Abarmard

jiantao

Abarmard

Abarmard

WiiMaster

jiantao

Abarmard

Ted

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surgeon

alpha1976

FlorOdy

alpha1976

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