2012 Odyssey EX-L. I replaced VVT solenoid gaskets bank 2 (front) (due to oil leaking on alternator and ruining it). Drove several miles > MIL came on (P3497 only) and running rough with loss of power. If I clear and reset codes > MIL comes on immediately (same P3497) and power loss continues. However, if I clear codes and engine is cool, then it runs fine and no MIL, UNTIL engine warms up (about 5-6 miles on interstate) and then MIL (P3497) and runs rough with loss of power again. I replaced the VVT oil pressure switch > no change. Do I need to replace the VVT solenoid to fix this? Is this just coincidence, or did I damage something when replacing those gaskets (simple, easy procedure that was uneventful).
P3497 and loss of power.
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- loss of power p3497
RMH
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2012 Odyssey EX-L. I replaced VVT solenoid gaskets bank 2 (front) (due to oil leaking on alternator and ruining it). Drove several miles > MIL came on (P3497 only) and running rough with loss of power. If I clear and reset codes > MIL comes on immediately (same P3497) and power loss continues. However, if I clear codes and engine is cool, then it runs fine and no MIL, UNTIL engine warms up (about 5-6 miles on interstate) and then MIL (P3497) and runs rough with loss of power again. I replaced the VVT oil pressure switch > no change. Do I need to replace the VVT solenoid to fix this? Is this just coincidence, or did I damage something when replacing those gaskets (simple, easy procedure that was uneventful).
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The P1497 code didn't show up until after the gaskets were changed, correct?
Below is the recommended fixes provided by BlueDriver. You've already replaced the pressure switch. Try topping off the oil?
Below is the recommended fixes provided by BlueDriver. You've already replaced the pressure switch. Try topping off the oil?
Yes, it was my fault. When I replaced the VVT solenoid gaskets (NOT the entire spool valve, just the assembly on top), I used some gasket sealer on the rubber gaskets (as recommended on a YouTube vid I saw), the sealer got squeezed out of the gasket and a thin string of sealer went down the hole and must have been blocking something. I was able to removed the sealer, fortunately, and the P3497 coded has not come on since. Also, I can find no more oil leakage. Hope this helps.
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Same issue here... Are use the sealer on the valve only not on the block and only on the outside edges not inside. Did you just take it apart and clean it up and put it back together without the gasket sealer? Did you spray something down the hall to free it up or vacuum upward?
I had the same issue with my 2011 EX-L. Spool valve was leaking oil, so I found the replacement gaskets on Amazon, before doing any research. As soon as I installed the new gaskets, leak was gone but it threw the P3497 on the highway.
To me, the issue isn't the sealing of the gasket itself, but it's the lower gasket screen. I believe it is too restrictive, causing the oil pressure switch on the spool valve to close and throw the code. I say this, because after taking it apart and placing the original lower gasket in, I am NOT getting codes.
I found some "OEM Honda" gaskets on ebay, which I will report back and type a report on IF they work and are indeed OEM Honda gaskets.
This seems to be a common trend with these, which hopefully the "Honda" gaskets will resolve and help others as well.
To me, the issue isn't the sealing of the gasket itself, but it's the lower gasket screen. I believe it is too restrictive, causing the oil pressure switch on the spool valve to close and throw the code. I say this, because after taking it apart and placing the original lower gasket in, I am NOT getting codes.
I found some "OEM Honda" gaskets on ebay, which I will report back and type a report on IF they work and are indeed OEM Honda gaskets.
This seems to be a common trend with these, which hopefully the "Honda" gaskets will resolve and help others as well.
The Amazon and Ebay gaskets are counterfeit. Honda does not sell them individually for this repair. The only way to get legit OEM gaskets for this repair is (unfortunately) to follow the TSB and purchase a new spool valve assembly, installing the gaskets and parts spelled out in the instructions.
Sure, was afraid of that. Super frustrating to have to buy a $160-$240 part just because the cheap o-rings start to leak. I'll probably buy the OEM and replace the valve cover gasket at the same time, instead of disassembling the spool valve off the main mount like others have mentioned.
Bottom line though, the replacement gaskets usually found will NOT work. Just wanted to emphasize that before others purchase them.
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some in other threads her have been adamant that they work, usual one hit posters who don't follow up.
The lower section of the spool valve slots into the cams. Don't remove it or loosen it unless you want to do a valve clearance adjustment at the same time. Read that TSB carefully.
-Charlie
Was thinking about placing the order for the fleabay ones but it all makes sense in the end. Greedy Honda as usual wanting us people to buy the complete assembly so they make profit on their part. Anyone have luck with the counterfeit gasket though? Maybe i'll give it a shot but idk.
Every OEM does this, not just Honda. Sometimes you get lucky with counterfeit parts, but in this case I've decided that the mesh screen is too much of a gamble. If there's any potential of oil flow restriction to anything on my engine, I'd rather buy the OEM. I should have started with it SMH.
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hello, I have had the exact same problem. Oil leak from solenoid that ruined my alternator. Finally got gaskets replaced and a new alternator installed. Started getting the same code with loss of power and stuttering when accelerating. I too used some gasket sealer so now I’m wondering if that’s the problem? How did you get rid of the gasket sealer?
I agree it sucks - the part is $350 where I am - - but do it right and hopefully it won't come back ever.
I did the ebay seal replacement (no gasket sealer) few years ago before a big road trip in a pinch. I planned to go back and fix it right but it hasn't started leaking again so I just left it be. Guessing i have about 40K miles on it since install.
I fixed this problem. Believe it or not the issue is dirty oil that causes the seloniod (VVT) to malfunction. I bought a new VVT and no luck so I decided to buy a 5min flush and did another oil change. While I left the newly installed VVT Seloniod I stuck the old one in gasoline with the holes facing down and both sensors still stuck on it. About 2 days later I pulled it out, installed the old VVT Seloniod that had sat in the gasoline and it worked. The code cleared after completing the driving cycles and I passed smog. The issue has yet to come back. I hope this helps someone! Cheers!
There is no blanket solution for everyone. It can be dirty oil, it can be low oil, it can be a bad pressure switch, it can be a bad screen on the gasket, or a bad solenoid itself.
Glad you fixed your issue, but I wouldn't go as far as saying it's a universal fix. It's definitely one of the things to check though.
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