Honda Odyssey Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Wheel stud spinning, can't remove wheel

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
O

oldspiceFL

· Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Update: I was able to break the stuff off using a 6-ft pipe and a deep well socket and simply used to physics to snap it. There is a video like it on YouTube by hooptie's garage.

Help. Every time I remove a front wheel from my 2010 Odyssey LX, a stud breaks. I now carry extras because it literally happens every time I remove a wheel. I am so careful with torque now yet it still happens. I have posted about this on the phone before, yet I have never figured out what causes it. Even when I take the car into a shop, the mechanic or technician will remark to me that one of the studs was very difficult to remove.

Today, while preparing to rotate my tires, I encountered two stud breaks. The first broke cleanly, which I am used to, having experienced this a half dozen times over the past 2 to 3 years. The second stud began free spinning so that I cannot remove the nut from the stud. My guess is that it somehow backed out of its hole so the wheel is now trapped on the car as I cannot remove the nut from the stud. Because the wheel is stuck on the car, I cannot repair the stud that broke.

If you have any advice, please share. I have no clue what to do and am preparing for a long night of Google searches.
 
#2 ·
Not sure how to help you but what ever you are doing, is wrong. You should not have these many breaks/issues with the studs. How exactly are you "careful with torque"?
 
  • Like
Reactions: T_Duck and oldspiceFL
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #4 ·
You're absolutely right, I am doing something wrong, but I don't know what that is.

Regarding the video, that is the process I currently use to replace studs after they break. But this time I cannot get the wheel off the car because the stud and nut are spinning without removing. I cannot get to the interior part of the stud because of the disc and brakes in the way.

This and a rattle I cannot find will be the reasons why I get rid of this van.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Yes. I tighten them using fingers and a ratchet till tight. Drop van.Torque to 90. And it's ONLY the front wheels. The rear studs never break knock on wood.

Update: I got it off. Used a six-foot pipe and followed this video: search Hoopties Garage and "lug nuts just spinning and won't come off, try this."

It's always the front wheels, never the back. And procedure to take the wheels off as I do on my truck, and I don't have a problem with my truck.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
To everyone, thank you for the advice. Love this forum. Love that we can offer advice and suggestions and if we know someone's doing something wrong, we pointed out because we want them to have a better experience and be better mechanics. I appreciate you all and I appreciate this forum.
 
#8 ·
-Lug thread lube needed (a little motor oil)?
-Torque wrench not accurate, wrench not relaxed after use?
-Incorrect nuts for type of rim?
-Original lugs lived in maximum rust belt? Replace all old lugs

Just some thoughts,
DanaH, 2014LX in san diego where rust really does sleep ;-)
 
#9 ·
oldspiceFL said:
Yes. I tighten them using fingers and a ratchet till tight. Drop van.Torque to 90. And it's ONLY the front wheels. The rear studs never break knock on wood.

Update: I got it off. Used a six-foot pipe and followed this video: search Hoopties Garage and "lug nuts just spinning and won't come off, try this."

It's always the front wheels, never the back. And procedure to take the wheels off as I do on my truck, and I don't have a problem with my truck.
Click to expand...
Have your torque wrench checked for calibration with a known good one or a more accurate way.
Replace all your original studs on the front hubs.
Change your hubs.
Do you use an anti-seize or similar, If not, you might want to research that.
If you do use anti-seize, like I do, make sure you don't get any on the surface of the wheel where the lug nut contacts it as this will mess up the torque and could possibly stretch the lug itself due to the decreased friction at that contact point, esp with air impact wrenches used by many shops instead of accurate torque wrenches.
Interesting read here: Use of Anti Seize on Vehicle Lug Nuts
Buffalo4
 
#10 · (Edited)
I agree that you may have a bad torque wrench. What torque are you using for them?
In 40+ years of car ownership I have never had a wheel stud break. Including 12 years with my Odyssey.
As said, you are doing something wrong.

Make sure you are not mixing up Nm with ft-lbs for torque values.
 
#11 ·
Lot's of great posts on this thread! I thought I'd add a few things an old in-flight aircraft carrier mechanic taught me.

1. Lubricant on the threads change the torque. For example, un-lubed 90 lbs. on a torque wrench is 90 lbs. But, a reading of 70 lbs. on the wrench might actually be 90 lbs. if lubed. The calculation is a little complicated.

2. I'm assuming there is no extension on the torque wrench. If there is, then there's a re-calc that's needed. For example, a 1' extension = "x"

3. Torque in a star pattern. That means start w/ 1 lug, then torque the next one that farthest away. Repeat.

4. After torque all of your lugs ... going all the way around and repeat torquing each lug in the same star-pattern until there is absolutely no further clicks on your clicking-torque-wrench. This is assuming you have a clicking-torque-wrench and not one of the more basic pointer models that don't click.

5. Re-torque your lugs one more time after about 100 miles of driving.

Both under tightening and over tightening wheel bolts can stress/break studs. I did a quick Google and didn't notice any complaints about Odyssey stud failures.

Also, I'm assuming stock wheels, stock alignment, etc. Some mods may cause some stress such as wider wheels (I'm running 8.5" wide rims, for example), excess negative camber (I understand there's a bolt or shim kit for this and would love to hear from anyone who has tried this and has details, specs., and part numbers 😊 since I preference a little bit of negative camber in the front), and that you're not in an area with salted roads?

I hope you solve this mystery 🤞🍀

P.S. The studs are inexpensive and IMO I would changed them all since it would take little time to do them all at the same time. Both sides 😉(y)

$2.19 each: https://www.autozone.com/suspension...lf5KQ9_ZJon4ZDFI64KpWEBNKc91cP9UjT94nN0t063k8HDH1yHMBoCeCQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

or ...

swap our the entire assembly with a MOOG Hub Assemblies Wheel Bearing and Hub for $114 each: Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Note: You should check for your own parts. I forgot you had a 2010 and I looked up the information for my 2005 EXL instead.
 
#13 ·
Do yourself a favour and get an electric impact gun to remove the wheel studs. This way you don’t need a long pipe for leverage and reefing on them in all sorts of weird angles causing the studs to snap. I’ve only broken 1 stud in my lifetime and that’s because it was rusted on and I had to stand on the bar to get it off (didn’t have an impact gun back then). When I install a wheel, I thread the lug nut on by hand to make sure I don’t cross thread. Then with a ratchet, tighten them all in a cross cross pattern so I know the wheel is sitting flat against the rotor. While still in the air, lodge a brick against the tire to prevent it from turning and use the torque wrench in 3 steps (50 - 70 - 92 ft-lbs) always criss cross pattern. Lower vehicle. Obviously if you’re on the road and get a flat, the procedure will differ (no impact gun, and you might need to lower vehicle before torquing).
 
#14 ·
If stud was spinning how were you able to take it off 6 foot pipe or not. Just curious.
I have never heard of studs systematically snapping. I normally tighten wheel lugs by hand using provided lug wrench in criss-cross pattern. "To factory spec". No issues.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Thank you for the tips!
Again, the rear never breaks studs. It's only the front studs that break.
Here's how I (dis)mount tires.
I jack up the vehicle and use a Milwaukee cordless impact to break the nuts loose. 4 of 5 will undoubtedly come off freely. The 5th will cross-thread about halfway off, so I'll snap it using a breaker bar. Once tire's off, I'll install a new stud using one of the handful I keep on stock from O'Reilly's.
To mount tires, I put the tire on the van and hand-tighten nuts until a ratchet is needed. I install in the star pattern that was mentioned. Once they're right to the point where the tires start moving, I drop the van and torque nuts to 90, torquing in a star pattern.
My torque wrench was bought at AutoZone and is also used on the rear tires, though they have never cross threaded or snapped.
Yes, perhaps the torque wrench is bad.
Yes, perhaps I need to get a new hub assembly as perhaps something is just off.
For the future: I'm going to try the brick-behind-wheels tip or just have someone press the brakes while I torque the nuts while in the air.
 
#19 · (Edited)
No reason they should ever be cross threaded. Either removing or installing. This may be your issue.
Are you torquing to 90 ft-lbs or nM?

Unless you have PAX, I believe the correct torque is 80 ft-lbs. This may be part of your issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skelsall
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#20 ·
thscott said:
I think he means using his best judgment And doing it by feel.
Click to expand...
That's how I do mine, no torque wrench. Never had a problem. I use one of those cross style (4-wqy) lug wrenches.
I also use some anti-seize on the threads only, and I make sure there is none on the contact surface of the wheel itself.
Buffalo4
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
About this Discussion
29 Replies
17 Participants
Last post:
adr5
Honda Odyssey Forum
posts
1.1M
members
432K
Since
2000
Odyclub community is the #1 forum to discuss all things Honda Odyssey: minivans, safety, service maintenance, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
2005 - 2010 Odyssey 2011 - 2017 Odyssey 1999 - 2004 Odyssey 2018+ Odyssey Problems and Concerns