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Homerquest

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At 98k mi, I'm due for an oil change. I've had it changed with Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic which has worked well. Walmart has Pennzoil full synthetic on sale and it posts the same API endorsement and specs but it's not Platinum. Honda's manual says to use any 0w-20 that is API certified is When I drain and refill some will mix which oil left in the engine.

As a frugal owner, I'm happy to spend $15 more on oil if it helps the engine life, but don't want to pay an extra penny on brands or labels of no real benefit. Does it matter if its Platinum or not? And can I change synthetic oil, non-synthetic or a blend of different brands based on what is on sale?
 
At the end of the day you'll be just fine even with the cheaper oils. Much like batteries, there are only a few different companies out there actually making the oil.

There is no conventional 0W-20. Just use synthetic and you'll be good to go.
 
At 98k mi, I'm due for an oil change. I've had it changed with Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic which has worked well. Walmart has Pennzoil full synthetic on sale and it posts the same API endorsement and specs but it's not Platinum. Honda's manual says to use any 0w-20 that is API certified is When I drain and refill some will mix which oil left in the engine.

As a frugal owner, I'm happy to spend $15 more on oil if it helps the engine life, but don't want to pay an extra penny on brands or labels of no real benefit. Does it matter if its Platinum or not? And can I change synthetic oil, non-synthetic or a blend of different brands based on what is on sale?
98k miles on the original oil?
that is frugal...I'd say you're due!

:ROFLMAO:

jokes aside, if you want to cut costs, the supertech synthetic at walmart is very good oil and the cheapest out there.
I use the penzoil platinum synthetic from walmart.
 
When I was buying a lot of oil for my oil-hungry Accord I bought Quaker State 5W-20 from Walmart. Fairly cheap and got the job done adequately.

I was considering switching to the Costco 5W-20 and was ready to order 10 quarts but something told me not to...then a few days later the car was totaled. Intuition wins :ROFLMAO:
 
Blackstone oil analysis did a podcast last year where they did over hundreds of thousands of oil samples, they saw NO benefit with synthetic oils vs SP rated blends.
Even expensive, not shelf , oils did not do any better.
The problem with that is UOAs don’t tell you certain things. They only tell you the makeup of the used oil and metals/contaminants in the oil.
 
Either of the Pennzoil offerings will work well, but I would get the one that is cheapest after sale/rebate. Right now that is Platinum or Ultra Platinum if you buy ten qts.

 
the supertech synthetic at walmart is very good oil and the cheapest out there.
Unfortunately, at least in my region of the country, the conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic Supertech oils have been put on clearance for incredible prices -- like a 5 quart jug of full synthetic for $14 -- and sold out like hot cakes and/or cleared from the shelves. (The SuperTech "ADVANCED full synthetic" is still available but as it is $27 for a 5 quart jug there are other cheaper options out there.)
Apparently, SuperTech oil is going away, to be replaced by a Quaker State branded oil that will be cheaper than their regular offerings. (Got that from the lady at the counter so take it with a grain of salt.)
 
The problem with that is UOAs don’t tell you certain things. They only tell you the makeup of the used oil and metals/contaminants in the oil.
Yes/kins of........however it's the only real way to ascertain the condition or the wearing of internal engine/trans parts.
Unless you plan to crack open your engine and have the parts scopped for wear.

Especially if you run an oil analysis at every oil change, which is common in the trucking industry.
This will tell the user approx how much metal the internal parts are wearing.

They said that oils today, especially dino/ syn blends are so good that they no longer see a divide between them and any syn based oil on the market. Including group 5, PAO and Ester based oils.

Remember this is across 100k plus oil analysis over the last 2-3 years.

They have nothing to gain or loose giving they dont take any oil sponsorships.

Many SP GF-5 oils on the market are syn blends in order to meet the new specs.

I'm sure Google could find the pod cast. I saw it on Bob is the oil guy forum. Lots of good oil info there.
 
Unfortunately, at least in my region of the country, the conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic Supertech oils have been put on clearance for incredible prices -- like a 5 quart jug of full synthetic for $14 -- and sold out like hot cakes and/or cleared from the shelves. (The SuperTech "ADVANCED full synthetic" is still available but as it is $27 for a 5 quart jug there are other cheaper options out there.)
Apparently, SuperTech oil is going away, to be replaced by a Quaker State branded oil that will be cheaper than their regular offerings. (Got that from the lady at the counter so take it with a grain of salt.)
Whaaaaat? They cant do that! I think you can get more accurate insider info from almost anywhere else... Most walmart employees arent privvy to corporate plans, and arent the brightest pencils in the tool shed. Lol.
Been using ST oil and filters for years, best deal around. I just wish the filters had the non slip ring like fram. Changed my oil last night it just wouldnt come off from all the oil on my gloves.
LOLing over crush washers. Changing my own fluids for 42 yrs now never bought a new one.
 
Whaaaaat? They cant do that! I think you can get more accurate insider info from almost anywhere else... Most walmart employees arent privvy to corporate plans, and arent the brightest pencils in the tool shed. Lol.
Been using ST oil and filters for years, best deal around. I just wish the filters had the non slip ring like fram. Changed my oil last night it just wouldnt come off from all the oil on my gloves.
LOLing over crush washers. Changing my own fluids for 42 yrs now never bought a new one.
Hey, me too. I have yet to buy a new crush washer. Over 3 decades of oil and trans changes.
No drips ever I still check every month for drips.
 
Hey, me too. I have yet to buy a new crush washer. Over 3 decades of oil and trans changes.
No drips ever I still check every month for drips.
I agree about the crush washer. The reason they are using it that way is because they don’t take the time to train their people how to tighten an aluminum bolt into an aluminum nut.
The good cars of the past had steel oil pans, with steel nuts welded in place. Also steel drain plugs with a tapered sealing seat built in, so all that was needed was a leather type gasket to prevent seepage. Instead of giving us theses new electronic gadgets that fail intermittently they could give us an oil filter that is changed from the top without jacking up the car. That is how it was in the old days. Or even a drain valve on the oil pan that could be turned with an 18 in socket extension thru an opening in the wheel well. Opps there I go again using common sense.
 
Walmart's Supertech oil is an interesting case of a well-performing oil that's not made by one of the well-known brands. The reason is that Supertech oil is made by Warren Oil Company International, but also

ExxonMobil and Pennzoil.


Sept 24, 2021

Look what a quick Google search dies...
 
At 98k mi, I'm due for an oil change. I've had it changed with Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic which has worked well. Walmart has Pennzoil full synthetic on sale and it posts the same API endorsement and specs but it's not Platinum. Honda's manual says to use any 0w-20 that is API certified is When I drain and refill some will mix which oil left in the engine.

As a frugal owner, I'm happy to spend $15 more on oil if it helps the engine life, but don't want to pay an extra penny on brands or labels of no real benefit. Does it matter if its Platinum or not? And can I change synthetic oil, non-synthetic or a blend of different brands based on what is on sale?
On your fine machine, I would only use
Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage 0W-20; 5QT,

for now, check back in 6 months to see if my recomm., b. o. bobisoilguy test results, thanks! [there's rebates]

ps i only use the mobil 1 110a filter due to test results, also, changed it today, after 18k miles!
 
Those metals are from the engine parts wearing out.
Yes and no. 2ppm over 10k miles for something like iron is normal wear and tear. 200pm in 1000 miles is going to mean catastrophic failure. So, in that aspect, unless you reach catastrophic failure, a normal UOA with things in the average range just tells a person that things are fine (for now).
Here is an excellent write up regarding UOAs: Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy
 
Yes/kins of........however it's the only real way to ascertain the condition or the wearing of internal engine/trans parts.
Unless you plan to crack open your engine and have the parts scopped for wear.

Especially if you run an oil analysis at every oil change, which is common in the trucking industry.
This will tell the user approx how much metal the internal parts are wearing.

They said that oils today, especially dino/ syn blends are so good that they no longer see a divide between them and any syn based oil on the market. Including group 5, PAO and Ester based oils.

Remember this is across 100k plus oil analysis over the last 2-3 years.

They have nothing to gain or loose giving they dont take any oil sponsorships.

Many SP GF-5 oils on the market are syn blends in order to meet the new specs.

I'm sure Google could find the pod cast. I saw it on Bob is the oil guy forum. Lots of good oil info there.
Yes.

they also tell us things like if the oil is still within range for viscosity aspect, fuel dilution depending on the source, and metallic components. What the UOA doesn’t tell us is oil quality between brands and that sort of thing.
The link I just linked to BITOG is an excellent write up on UOAs.
 
Unfortunately, at least in my region of the country, the conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic Supertech oils have been put on clearance for incredible prices -- like a 5 quart jug of full synthetic for $14 -- and sold out like hot cakes and/or cleared from the shelves. (The SuperTech "ADVANCED full synthetic" is still available but as it is $27 for a 5 quart jug there are other cheaper options out there.)
Apparently, SuperTech oil is going away, to be replaced by a Quaker State branded oil that will be cheaper than their regular offerings. (Got that from the lady at the counter so take it with a grain of salt.)
considering QS is a Shell brand, that’s interesting that Highline Warren would contract to QS to make an oil for them.
 
Yes and no. 2ppm over 10k miles for something like iron is normal wear and tear. 200pm in 1000 miles is going to mean catastrophic failure. So, in that aspect, unless you reach catastrophic failure, a normal UOA with things in the average range just tells a person that things are fine (for now).
Here is an excellent write up regarding UOAs: Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy
Ok...not sure about the no part.
Some oils do contain a few ppm of certain oils. However for all intents and purposes wear metals from a UOA is from the mechanical part that the oil has been used in.

Blackstone said they saw no bennefit to using syn oils vs conventional or blends. Even in turbo applications. Over thousands of different engines and oils.
 
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