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SarahM!

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi, there are no oil warning lights on in my 2011 Ody with 94K miles, but I have not had the oil changed since I bought it about 500 miles ago, and do not know when it was last done. I checked the oil and it is just above the minimum and kinda brown, so I'm debating whether to add a quart or just get it changed. If I add a quart, is there any danger of using a blend if full synthetic was used in the last fill or vice versa? I don't know if they mix!

Also if I do take it in for a change, is there any advantage to paying extra for full synthetic?

Thanks.
 
As long as it is between the min/max markers on the dipstick you are ok. Better to add some oil, even if the grade is mismatch, than to let it run low.

Since the Ody calls for 0w-20 you'll get at least a synth blend. I don't think any pure dino oils can meet the 0w-20 spec. I always use full synthetic, but I change my own oil so the cost difference is hardly anything. Either one is acceptable IMO. I'd recommend the dealer (or an independent mechanic) over a quick lube place, personally. Too many mistakes come out of the quick lube joints.

Also, since you just bought this, perfect time to install a VCM muzzler device! Read the first post of the VCM mega thread sticky in this forum.
It is the number 1 killer by far of these vans, especially at the mileage you have. I recommend S-VCM Controller or VCM Tuner II Advanced since they are install and forget. Any independent mechanic can install it or you can YouTube it and do it yourself with a screwdriver in 10 min.

Last, here is my recommendation for a maintenance schedule to follow since the Maintenance Minder system may not be reliable depending on how the previous owner used it.
 
Any oil of the correct weight and rating will be fine. They will all be at least semi-synthetic...

It is a good idea to do a full fluid service on any vehicle you purchase just to get a 'baseline' of service so you know where to start from. In the case of an '11, that would be engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid (Honda OEM or compatible fluid only!) and brake fluid. Coolant can wait until you do the timing belt service if it hasn't already been done.

-Charlie
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Any oil of the correct weight and rating will be fine. They will all be at least semi-synthetic...

It is a good idea to do a full fluid service on any vehicle you purchase just to get a 'baseline' of service so you know where to start from. In the case of an '11, that would be engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid (Honda OEM or compatible fluid only!) and brake fluid. Coolant can wait until you do the timing belt service if it hasn't already been done.

-Charlie
Thanks Charlie! I had the tranny fluid and power steering fluid changed when I bought it at the dealer's recommendation (I bought from independent seller but had dealer inspect). I'd like to get an oil change just like to say to know where I stand. Oh, I also had a brake job done on it. So I guess the oil is the only thing remaining.
 
Hi, there are no oil warning lights on in my 2011 Ody with 94K miles, but I have not had the oil changed since I bought it about 500 miles ago, and do not know when it was last done. I checked the oil and it is just above the minimum and kinda brown, so I'm debating whether to add a quart or just get it changed. If I add a quart, is there any danger of using a blend if full synthetic was used in the last fill or vice versa? I don't know if they mix!

Also if I do take it in for a change, is there any advantage to paying extra for full synthetic?

Thanks.
Yes, good thinking, put a quart of oil up to the high mark in now, that's called a "make-up" quart, of the cheapest oil from walmart, which is Super-tech 0w-20 synthetic. Or, you could use a 5w-20, even, temporarily. Now you have some more fresh additives and base oil in there by 25%. Correctly measure by shutting your car down, wait 90 sec, take oil measurement 2 or 3 times if hard to see on dipstick. Now you have time to plan your oil change. Go to a mechanic, an oil change center, a friend to help on oil change. To keep it simple keep buying super-tech if you like to save $5, or treat your car to: Mobil 1 Extended performance high mileage 0W-20, second choice is pennzoil ultra extended performance high mileage, if they make it. If the first owners changed oil properly, the bottom part of your engine is now able to go to 350K miles. Also, spend a little extra on a Mobil 1 filter, which you can run for 20k miles. With the mobil oil/ mobil filter combo, it is established that you can go 15k miles, and over a year, because it has been tested by others. You can also use a Fram Ultra 20k mile oil filter for $4 less, but all of these filters have been torn apart by others, and the Mobil 1 has the absolute best construction and filtration. I detest oil cos. the same as all of us, no longer own exxon mobil stock, so I am only sharing science/randomness/god's truth with you. Also, the oil filter is a little hard to change cause it's underneath, but on your next oil change say in 10 to 15k miles, you could buy yourself a little pump and pump it out the dipstick hole, it doesnt have a magnetic drain plug. Enjoy your car!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
As long as it is between the min/max markers on the dipstick you are ok. Better to add some oil, even if the grade is mismatch, than to let it run low.

Since the Ody calls for 0w-20 you'll get at least a synth blend. I don't think any pure dino oils can meet the 0w-20 spec. I always use full synthetic, but I change my own oil so the cost difference is hardly anything. Either one is acceptable IMO. I'd recommend the dealer (or an independent mechanic) over a quick lube place, personally. Too many mistakes come out of the quick lube joints.

Also, since you just bought this, perfect time to install a VCM muzzler device! Read the first post of the VCM mega thread sticky in this forum.
It is the number 1 killer by far of these vans, especially at the mileage you have. I recommend S-VCM Controller or VCM Tuner II Advanced since they are install and forget. Any independent mechanic can install it or you can YouTube it and do it yourself with a screwdriver in 10 min.

Last, here is my recommendation for a maintenance schedule to follow since the Maintenance Minder system may not be reliable depending on how the previous owner used it.
Thanks for the advice! I've got no earthly idea what a VCM muzzler is, but I'm off to read about it now. Thank you. The van runs very well so far and I'd like to keep it in good shape. It also surprisingly gets even better city mileage than my little Acura TSX (it's a good coaster).
 
Yes, good thinking, put a quart of oil up to the high mark in now, that's called a "make-up" quart, of the cheapest oil from walmart, which is Super-tech 0w-20 synthetic(all Odyssey oil is synthetic now). Or you could use a 5w-20, even, temporarily. Now you have some more additives in there by 25%, saving you engine. Correctly measure by shutting your car down, wait 90 sec, take oil measurement 2 or 3 times if hard to see on dipstick. Now you have time to plan your oil change. Go to a mechanic, an oil change center, a friend to help on oil change. To keep it simple keep buying super-tech if you like to save $5, or treat your car to: Mobil 1 Extended performance high mileage 0W-20 (good for 20k miles/one year, most run past 1 yr, but not real long), second choice is pennzoil ultra extended performance high mileage, if they make it. If the first owners changed oil properly, the bottom part of your engine is now able to go to 350K miles. Also, spend a little extra on a Mobil 1 Synthetic filter, which you can run for 20k miles. With the mobil oil/ mobil filter combo, it is established that you can go 15k miles, and over a year, because it has been tested by others. You can also use a Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter for $4 less, but all of these filters have been torn apart by others, and the Mobil 1 has the absolute best construction. I detest oil cos. the same as all of us, no longer own exxon mobil stock, so I am only sharing science/randomness/god's truth with you. Also, the oil filter is a little hard to change cause it's underneath, but on your next oil change say in 10 to 15k miles, you could buy yourself a little pump and pump it out the dipstick hole, it doesnt have a magnetic drain plug. Enjoy your car!
Don't believe anyone makes semi-synthetic 0W-20 oil any more, I believe it's 100% synthetic out there.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Yes, good thinking, put a quart of oil up to the high mark in now, that's called a "make-up" quart, of the cheapest oil from walmart, which is Super-tech 0w-20 synthetic(all Odyssey oil is synthetic now). Or you could use a 5w-20, even, temporarily. Now you have some more additives in there by 25%. Correctly measure by shutting your car down, wait 90 sec, take oil measurement 2 or 3 times if hard to see on dipstick. Now you have time to plan your oil change. Go to a mechanic, an oil change center, a friend to help on oil change. To keep it simple keep buying super-tech if you like to save $5, or treat your car to: Mobil 1 Extended performance high mileage 0W-20, second choice is pennzoil ultra extended performance high mileage, if they make it. If the first owners changed oil properly, the bottom part of your engine is now able to go to 350K miles. Also, spend a little extra on a Mobil 1 filter, which you can run for 20k miles. With the mobil oil/ mobil filter, it is established that you can go 15k miles, and over a year, because it has been tested by others. You can also use a Fram Ultra oil filter for $4 less, but all of these filters have been torn apart by other, and the Mobil 1 has the absolute construction. I detest oil cos. the same as all of us, no longer own exxon mobil stock, so I am only sharing science/randomness/god's truth with you. Also, the oil filter is a little hard to change cause it's underneath, but on your next oil change say in 10 to 15k miles, you could buy yourself a little pump and pump it out the dipstick hole, it doesnt have a magnetic drain plug. Enjoy your car!
Thank you for all the great advice tdelco! I'm getting ready to take her on a little vacation so I'll probably put a make-up quart in now and plan the change for when I get back. Also thank you for telling me that Mobil oil is indeed better! I don't drive a lot of miles but like to treat my cars well anyway. Somebody else will be changing it because I've got terrible arm strength.

BTW my sis worked for Exxon for 20 years and had a lot of stock... then some idiot investor she hired made a bunch of short term gains for her last year and SOLD OFF all her Exxon stock to offset that. She was furious :D. She works for VP Racing now if you're familiar with them.
 
Any oil of the correct weight and rating will be fine. They will all be at least semi-synthetic...

It is a good idea to do a full fluid service on any vehicle you purchase just to get a 'baseline' of service so you know where to start from. In the case of an '11, that would be engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid (Honda OEM or compatible fluid only!) and brake fluid. Coolant can wait until you do the timing belt service if it hasn't already been done.

-Charlie
Don't believe anyone makes semi-synthetic 0W-20 oil any more, that's what I started with. I believe it's 100% synthetic out there. Might be old stuff, maybe.
 
Thank you for all the great advice tdelco! I'm getting ready to take her on a little vacation so I'll probably put a make-up quart in now and plan the change for when I get back. Also thank you for telling me that Mobil oil is indeed better! I don't drive a lot of miles but like to treat my cars well anyway. Somebody else will be changing it because I've got terrible arm strength.

BTW my sis worked for Exxon for 20 years and had a lot of stock... then some idiot investor she hired made a bunch of short term gains for her last year and SOLD OFF all her Exxon stock to offset that. She was furious :D. She works for VP Racing now if you're familiar with them.
Sorry that happened to your sister. How 'bout that. Yes, VP racing was a competitor to Sunoco Racing Fuels, where I worked in the product development labs. I held the exxon stk 10 years, though, rolled it into Fidelity at gain.
 
Jiffy Lube told me they could use a blend or I could pay +30 for full synthetic.
Tks. Due to the oils shortage many of us didnt know the semi blend still available. It's actually fine to use the semi blend, I recall at Sunoco we couldn't see any more wear in the engine parts when torn down after good old petroleum based oil, just more brown varnish, which is not pretty, but doesnt hurt anything. BUT: you don't get the 20k mile/ one year extended change interval with blended oil. When GM started speccing Mobil 1 full synthetic in Vettes, that's when everyone took notice. I'm sure these other guys here with more experience have warned you about the important points about the car. I only developed Sunoco Ultra gasoline, lectured on fuels and oils, & was national quality manager of fuels, so i dont know the mechanicals as well as them.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Tks. Due to the oils shortage many of us didnt know the semi blend still available. It's actually fine to use the semi blend, I recall at Sunoco we couldn't see any more wear in the engine parts when torn down after good old petroleum based oil, just more brown varnish, which is not pretty, but doesnt hurt anything. When GM started speccing Mobil 1 full synthetic in Vettes, that's when everyone took notice. I'm sure these other guys here with more experience have warned you about the important points about the car. I only developed Sunoco Ultra gasoline, lectured on fuels and oils, & was national quality manager of fuels, so i dont know the mechanicals as well as them.
Holy smokes, you probably actually know my little sis. Also that's a very impressive resume.

I'm hoping by warning me about the important points you're referring to the VCM Mega thread they referred me to and the VCM muzzler or controller thing I should do, which I really am going to go read about now.

This forum is awesome. I really appreciate you guys. You gave me great advice last year about batteries and trickle chargers and it's made my life a heckuva lot easier since.
 
I'm hoping by warning me about the important points you're referring to the VCM Mega thread they referred me to and the VCM muzzler or controller thing I should do, which I really am going to go read about now.
That would be the biggest thing. 2nd biggest would be the timing belt service, but you've got another 10k miles or so before that interval. If you'd like to get ahead, you can read the megathread for that as well:
 
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Tks. Due to the oils shortage many of us didnt know the semi blend still available. It's actually fine to use the semi blend, I recall at Sunoco we couldn't see any more wear in the engine parts when torn down after good old petroleum based oil, just more brown varnish, which is not pretty, but doesnt hurt anything. BUT: you don't get the 20k mile/ one year extended change interval with blended oil. When GM started speccing Mobil 1 full synthetic in Vettes, that's when everyone took notice. I'm sure these other guys here with more experience have warned you about the important points about the car. I only developed Sunoco Ultra gasoline, lectured on fuels and oils, & was national quality manager of fuels, so i dont know the mechanicals as well as them.
You’ve lectured on oils but have no clue about synthetic blend 0w20s?




 
Don't over fill the oil. Not sure I would pour a whole quart in with out ....
Pour a bit, wait, recheck dip stick, and continue until between dots/detents/safe zone on dip stick.
If done with engine hot, oil you pour in will make it down to dip stick quicker fwiw.
 
Now here's the thing - you don't know if the last oil changer shorted it by nearly a quart, which definitely happens, or whether its using oil. If its using oil, most likely you are headed for trouble with the VCM and carboned-up rings in the 'off' cylinders. This is fixable with good oil and fuel additives but you should find out ASAP. In light of this, I would do the oil change with Mobil1 0W-20 'Hi-Mileage' and verify the oil level on hot engine is at the top mark on the stick. Check it on your trip and after you return. Hopefully it will stay on the mark.
 
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