I am about to do the timing belt on my '12 EX-L. I've been watching videos and reading posts. I noticed that there are two torque specs mentioned. One is 181 Ft/lbs. The other is 47 ft/lbs and then 60 degrees. Are they equivalent? My torque wrench does not go to 181 ft/lbs, so I am leaning towards doing 47 ft./bs and then 60 degrees. Also, is it possible to tighten the bolt without the Honda pulley holder tool? I am hoping to not have to buy another tool that will only get used once. TIA.
Crank pulley bolt torque
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adr5
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I am about to do the timing belt on my '12 EX-L. I've been watching videos and reading posts. I noticed that there are two torque specs mentioned. One is 181 Ft/lbs. The other is 47 ft/lbs and then 60 degrees. Are they equivalent? My torque wrench does not go to 181 ft/lbs, so I am leaning towards doing 47 ft./bs and then 60 degrees. Also, is it possible to tighten the bolt without the Honda pulley holder tool? I am hoping to not have to buy another tool that will only get used once. TIA.
2000 Odyssey LX, 2003 Odyssey EX, 2011 Odyssey EXL, 2016 HRV
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I just did the bolt on a 2000 Odyssey. You will probably need the holder to get the bolt off and the shop manual says to use it when torqueing it back on. I bought the Evertough brand (Taiwan) from 5 Star Dealz on ebay for $42 total but I think Auto Zone or Oreilly's may loan them. It has a nice blown plastic case to keep it in. I went ahead and bought a Harbor Freight 3/4" drive torque wrench since I may have to do this again on my '03 and you also need it for the axle nut if you ever take that off. The axle nut is at the top end of my 1/2 drive and then some. Probably not great for the wrench. I had to guestimate it a few months ago but I ended up at the old paint mark when I staked it down so I felt comfortable with that. Next time I'll have the big wrench. My 2011-2012 Honda shop manual does in fact say to tighten to 48 ft-lbs, and then turn it 60 degrees more. They don't give a full torque figure. Somebody said in another bolt thread that you could use the flats of the bolt to measure the 60 degrees. Makes sense since they call them "hex" bolts and there are 6 sides, so that is 360 degrees.
I’m going to post my “adventures” trying to get the crank bolt loosened so that maybe it helps someone. I went through this a few weeks ago in my driveway and it took much longer than it should have. I have a small air compressor and a good 1/2” impact that didn’t do anything. I bought the lisle holding tool and still couldn’t get it off going from the top of the engine, my breaker bar would flex from radiator support to cowl(this was terrifying). I bought a 3/4” cordless impact from harbor freight(1600 lb/ft rating) and that wasn’t enough. I ended up having to bribe a friend of mine who owns a shop to let me use one of his lifts for a few minutes. We took the bell housing cover off and wedged a pry bar in between the oil pan and a flywheel bolt(or maybe torque converter bolt, not exactly sure). He still almost blew an o-ring using a huge snapon breaker bar.
How much torque an air impact will put out is highly dependent on the compressor you are using. You need a big compressor that can put out a lot of air a high pressure to get the most out of your impract gun. Harbor freight impact wrenches do not meet the numbers they print on the box. Check out the torque test channel on YouTube. They test and post their results. That is how I chose to use the Milwaukee high torque. The Rigid High Torque is also a good candidate. The Ryobi mid torque, rated at 600 ft.lbs, is not good enough.
I have a friend with a Subaru shop. The big issues on the EJ motors is cam gear bolts. They have a special spot in the shop to roll a motor that is right next to the compressor, with a short and extra large diameter hose to a 3/4" air impact that they only use for cam gear bolts... Air line length, diameter and the impact itself all matter.
-Charlie
The Lisle socket,with its high mass, may have been the final piece for your impact wrench puzzle.
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I've usually had good luck with the holding tool, and using a torque multiplier, or 3/4"-drive tools. Only once did I have a crank pulley bolt give me a real fight.
Edited for clarity
- 3/4"-drive tools did not work
- Next, I tried an Aircat impact wrench with short length of hose to compressor, max working pressure maintained while operating
- That damaged my Lisle socket
- Finally, 1"-drive tools and an almost-4-foot breaker bar assisted with a 10-foot stockade post
- That worked. Over 1,500 verifiable ft-lbs. of torque
Edited for clarity
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1,157 Posts
If youre in san diego by chance Id be happy to loan you my holding tool, and I have the high mass socket if you need as well. I ground the socket down to fit inside the holding tool, its a good setup. That way on removal you dont have energy dissapated into the crank by allowing it to move.
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Yeah when i took mine off with a craftsman impact gun I did a preemptive step of buying the high flow quick release fitting for the gun end, and took the quick release off completely on the compressor end. I have a dewalt emglo hand carry compressor, from back when they made em in USA. its good for 4.5 cfm but I often pair it with a 9 gallon "buddy" tank inline and boost it to around 125psi for a little extra push. Still not enough for media blasting or any continuous rotation tools.
Ive since bought the makita high torque cordless gun if it lives up to its 1100+ ft lbs claimed it should be more than enough for the next crank bolt. (Some youtube reviews showed it edged out the milwaukee by a bit)
For the crank bolt, it's a challenge with hand tools - on our 05, the first time I did it with two breaker bars, but the second time on that van and the first time on our 16 I used the bump start method to loosen it. (I tried taking the crank bolt off on the 16 using a mid-torque Dewalt electric impact and the Lisle socket but it wouldn't budge) The bump start method works well, but you need to be careful with respect to how/where you brace the breaker bar (I was nervous with the button start, but pulled the fuel pump relay so it couldn't start and "practiced" a few times to see if it would work - basically just pressing the button, then as soon as it starts doing something, pressing it again quickly). For tightening on both vehicles it is 48 ft lbs + 60 degrees - on the 05, my 250 ft-lb torque wrench hit it's max before I got there, so I use a breaker bar (well - 2, one to hold the crank pulley with the pulley tool and one on the bolt - for the holding tool, this time I bought a cheap one off Amazon and it worked, but it was sloppy in the crank pulley which was annoying)
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I torqued it with a wrench, marked it with paint, then walked it in another 60 degrees with a big electric impact wrench. I had also used the impact wrench to remove it along with one of those fat Lisle sockets. It all worked like a charm. With an impact wrench, you don’t really need the tool to hold the pulley.
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361 Posts
Really hard to rotate another 60 degrees if you are on jack stands. I did what Hondahondafasterfaster did and bumped it with the impact wrench. If you have access to a lift then life is good.
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Be sure and oil the bolt between the head of the bolt and the washer as the service manual states. That will make the 60 degrees easier.
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When working with Honda crank pulley bolts do yourself a favor and get a 3/4" breaker bar at harbor freight. Then order a 3/4" extension set and a 3/4" 19mm socket. The added stiffness of 3/4" tools (and a cheater pipe or jack-handle) makes short work of the bolt on and off.
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There are vehicles I've tried 3/4" tools and cheater bars on and it has been too tight for the 3/4" tools. When you start getting major flex on a 3/4" tool you are in danger territory and risk severe injury. The best way I have found is the Milwaukee 2767 and the Lisle heavy mass socket. It has worked on vehicles that 3/4" tools didn't. It zips that bolt off every time like it's nothing.
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