I am about to do the timing belt on my '12 EX-L. I've been watching videos and reading posts. I noticed that there are two torque specs mentioned. One is 181 Ft/lbs. The other is 47 ft/lbs and then 60 degrees. Are they equivalent? My torque wrench does not go to 181 ft/lbs, so I am leaning towards doing 47 ft./bs and then 60 degrees. Also, is it possible to tighten the bolt without the Honda pulley holder tool? I am hoping to not have to buy another tool that will only get used once. TIA.
Crank pulley bolt torque
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adr5
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That's the tool I had to use to get my crank bolt off. One thing to keep in mind is that Milwaukee recently released a new version of the 2767 and many of them are failing prematurely, as reported by the Torque Test Channel on youtube. So try to get the old model if possible.
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Well, that's disappointing to hear. Mine has been fantastic.
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A buddy had the IR version of the battery powered impact wrench when we did my TB on our van. It blammed the bolt off in like 3 seconds, so there is competition to the Milwaukee gun.
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I've had them come off easy and I've had them be near impossible. The impossible ones required the Milwaukee AND the socket.
Suffice it to say, you'll need a good setup to get that thing off.
Suffice it to say, you'll need a good setup to get that thing off.
Watch the Torque Test Channel. The Rigid high torque is stronger than the Milwaukee. The new DeWalt high torque is a beast that bests both the Rigid and the Milwaukee. So there is some competition for the Milwaikee, but the old 2767 was strong and reliable.
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This ^^^
The Rigid has lifetime warranty on the tool and 3 or 5 years on the battery.
My shop friends only use them now, after replacing various abused top name brands.
You NEED to register your tool and battery with copy of receipt for warranty.
Milwaukee authorized repair depot in my area, guy who runs the place says even he wont buy them.
I have been there a fair bit replacing defective tools for the folks at work.
The Rigid has lifetime warranty on the tool and 3 or 5 years on the battery.
My shop friends only use them now, after replacing various abused top name brands.
You NEED to register your tool and battery with copy of receipt for warranty.
Milwaukee authorized repair depot in my area, guy who runs the place says even he wont buy them.
I have been there a fair bit replacing defective tools for the folks at work.
Not sure you're gonna' get many people who have used both.
The Lisle, lots of people sing its praises, I've not heard anyone say it's failed to remove a bolt.
The IR, I've never heard anyone mention using.
The effectiveness is in the mass and good fit. That delivers the impact needed. So, compare the weights and snugness on a bolt head.
The Lisle, lots of people sing its praises, I've not heard anyone say it's failed to remove a bolt.
The IR, I've never heard anyone mention using.
The effectiveness is in the mass and good fit. That delivers the impact needed. So, compare the weights and snugness on a bolt head.
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I've never had the Lisle let me down yet. Don't have an IR socket.
I would not spend extra on the IR socket. If you have one of the previously mentioned high torque impact wrenches, the Lisle socket is fine. I used the Milwaukee 2767 with the Lisle socket and the bolt was zipped off in a a couple of seconds. I had previously tried a long breaker bar as well as trying to use the starter to bump the bolt off. I was very impressed by the Milwaukee.
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I may be the first, ever.
No dice using an Aircat impact gun and a Lisle socket on our then "new to us" 2012 Accord EX-L. I ended up damaging the Lisle socket's square drive, and elected to stop before I more thoroughly rounded the corners.
I had the Aircat running at maximum sustained air pressure allowed by the manual. 1,295 ft-lbs. of torque available, per its specs. Did f@#$ing Godzilla put this crank pulley bolt on at the factory?!
Had to resort to 1-inch square drive tools (like for using on tractors) and a 10-foot stockade post as a cheater bar. Easily over 1,500 ft-lbs. of torque required to break loose that fershlugginer crank pulley bolt.
I thought I was going to break something on the engine, and when the bolt banged loose, I thought, "Well, now you've done it..."
Luckily, I loosened it that time without causing further damage to anything else.
If that did not work, I was going to surrender and take it to a nearby diesel rig shop.
OF
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Mine did not budge with an Ingersoll Rand 1/2" and high flow hose/fittings @120psi. I was using a high mass socket. I used one little spritz of PB Blaster and it zipped right off.
My main concern now is putting it back on. Since I am working on the ground I will not be able to get any kind of room to torque without extension and we all know how high torque and extensions go...
It might be one of those times where I torque to 47ft/lbs I should be able to paint mark and then impact to 60° with the special pulley tool (to prevent it pulling on the belt). 🤞
My main concern now is putting it back on. Since I am working on the ground I will not be able to get any kind of room to torque without extension and we all know how high torque and extensions go...
It might be one of those times where I torque to 47ft/lbs I should be able to paint mark and then impact to 60° with the special pulley tool (to prevent it pulling on the belt). 🤞
Has anyone had a confirmed removal of this bolt with a IR 2235QTimax? It advertises 1300 ft-lbs of torque. I would think that would be enough to get the bolt off with the lisle socket.
I have an air compressor that I use for a ton of other things so I have the prime mover already and would like to stay away from batteries… or more specifically, stay away from having to buy more batteries in the future.
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I have an air compressor that I use for a ton of other things so I have the prime mover already and would like to stay away from batteries… or more specifically, stay away from having to buy more batteries in the future.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tightening is much easier. Get the Honda tool to hold the pulley. Then put your breaker bar on the tool and wedge it against a control arm or the ground. Then a socket and torque wrench to get it up to 250 ft/lbs.Mine did not budge with an Ingersoll Rand 1/2" and high flow hose/fittings @120psi. I was using a high mass socket. I used one little spritz of PB Blaster and it zipped right off.
My main concern now is putting it back on. Since I am working on the ground I will not be able to get any kind of room to torque without extension and we all know how high torque and extensions go...
It might be one of those times where I torque to 47ft/lbs I should be able to paint mark and then impact to 60° with the special pulley tool (to prevent it pulling on the belt). 🤞
I agree with everything up to the torque spec. My service manual for my 2011 says oil the bolt, then 65 Nm, then 60 degrees. PDF scan attached.
Also, the pulley holding tool is very standard for Hondas and you can probably borrow (rent for free) one at your local car parts store.
I think the two are equivalent. Newer cars specify the 250 ft/lbs spec.
I don't believe that is the spec. Don't have it on hand for your year.
I hope it is right. That is what I used when I did my TB back in Dec '21. That's the number I got, but I forget the specific source. It could have been the instructions that came with the Aisin kit I used. It's about 8500 miles since I did it and so far, no issues.
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