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Spark plugs change 2007 Odyssey EX-L. Any pre or post change procedures needed?

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jchitrady

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I just ordered the NGK 3657 Laser Iridium spark plugs from Rock Auto. Initially I was thinking to get the Ruthenium but it is not listed under the 2007 Odyssey, so probably it is not compatible.

Anyway, to replace them I think it would be just as simple as remove and put the new plugs back, right?

Is there anything like a "pre" changes procedure and "post" changes procedure that I need to do?
Just want to be sure doing things the right way.

Thanks guys. :)
 
#2 · (Edited)
Check to see if they felt loose removing them.
Shops have told me mine were loose when they changed them.
Check the gap, mine are 1mm gap on Gen 2
Thread in by hand as far as you can.
Use a torque wrench, I believe 13 ft lbs, a dab of never sieze if your inclined to use it, I do.
Go over them twice with the torque wrench, there is a crush washer on them.
Torque the coil hex bolt to 6 ft lbs and your good to go.
 
#4 ·
Make sure to change plugs on a cold engine.
 
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#7 ·
Easy removal, you need need lots of patient with rear 3 cylinders, don't over tighten plugs obviously, you might need special spark plug socket set and flexible magnet pick up tool would be helpful too.
NGK 3657 is what recommended by Honda that is what you should stick to. Be patient and take your time, nothing really special
 
#9 ·
jchitrady said:
Not sure you are joking or not here... but that is the plan :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
Wiimaster's reminder is a valued serious one, cold engine, no joke! :)
And as many members pointed out, stay with Honda recommended plug brand, model, not lower, not higher, Honda engine is really picky on plugs, double check plugs gap before installing using a proper tool,
make it happy and you will be happy too.
My two cents, good luck and have fun!
 
#10 ·
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#11 · (Edited)
majiexpress said:
....Honda engine is really picky on plugs, double check plugs gap before installing using a proper tool,
make it happy and you will be happy too...
Click to expand...
What is a proper tool for checking the gap?

I'd think a feeler gauge is more accurate than a cheapo coin-shaped gadget that you can find on a parts store counter.

I used a feeler gauge. Unfortunately, the largest piece is 0.035 inch. Not thick enough to check the NGK plugs I got from Majestic.

I'll have to look for another one.

The gap for the NGK is 0.039 to 0.043 in, per 05 to 06 FSM.

PS: I think I got mine from HF. The biggest piece is 0.035 in.

www.harborfreight.com

Feeler Gauge, 32-Piece

Amazing deals on this 32Pc Feeler Gauge at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
#15 ·
marciano said:
What is a proper tool for checking the gap?

I used a feeler gauge. Unfortunately, the largest piece is 0.35 inch. Not thick enough to check the NGK plugs

The gap for the NGK is 0.039 to 0.043 in, per 05 to 06 FSM.

The biggest piece is 0.035 in.
Click to expand...
You can mix and match 2 feeler gauges in your set to make up the thickness in between 0.039” to 0.043”
 
#16 ·
v4forever said:
You can mix and match 2 feeler gauges in your set to make up the thickness in between 0.039” to 0.043”
Click to expand...
That's true. But I'll have to disassemble the assembly.

And since we are talking about feeler gauges, what is a good brand?

At some point, I think I will have to do valve adjustment.

In that case, you REALLY need a precise instrument!

What brand of feeler gauges you folks have used for valve adjustment?
 
#17 ·
marciano said:
What brand of feeler gauges you folks have used for valve adjustment?
Click to expand...
My go to is my old Craftsman set
Next in line is my long 12” Proto set

And yes, for valve adjustment’s, I removed most of the unwanted feeler gauges to make the set more ergonomic friendly.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
v4forever said:
Check to see if they felt loose removing them.
Shops have told me mine were loose when they changed them.
Check the gap, mine are 1mm gap on Gen 2
Thread in by hand as far as you can.
Use a torque wrench, I believe 13 ft lbs, a dab of never sieze if your inclined to use it, I do.
Go over them twice with the torque wrench, there is a crush washer on them.
Torque the coil hex bolt to 6 ft lbs and your good to go.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
 
#19 ·
FYI: Hondas instructions for installing plugs is specifically when RE-installing them. That's probably why they say to use anti size. NGK says the non-stick plating on their plugs is basically a sacrificial layer so it probably only works once. Honda doesn't explain this, but if you actually follow what the book is saying, it always says "reinstall" right after removal. Never talks about replacing.

Also be aware NGKs torque spec is higher if installing dry vs Hondas lower book spec with anti size. Some of their plus are as low as 12 lb/ft.
 
#20 ·
I also personally use a cheap Capri tools 1/4" click type torque wrench from Amazon with 1/4-3/8" adapter. Great for lower torque setting and it's small like a 3/8" ratchet. Rated in inch/lbs so you have to multiply by 12 to convert.

Also requires practice cause low torque values have a very low click feel on the tool. Adapt your way up to a big lug nut and get a feel for the tools low settings.

Something like this:
 
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