Honda Odyssey Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Spark plugs change 2007 Odyssey EX-L. Any pre or post change procedures needed?

Tags
ngk spark plugs
Jump to Latest
10K views 50 replies 15 participants last post by  Batvette  
J
#1 ·
Hi all,
I just ordered the NGK 3657 Laser Iridium spark plugs from Rock Auto. Initially I was thinking to get the Ruthenium but it is not listed under the 2007 Odyssey, so probably it is not compatible.

Anyway, to replace them I think it would be just as simple as remove and put the new plugs back, right?

Is there anything like a "pre" changes procedure and "post" changes procedure that I need to do?
Just want to be sure doing things the right way.

Thanks guys. :)
 
V
#2 · (Edited)
Check to see if they felt loose removing them.
Shops have told me mine were loose when they changed them.
Check the gap, mine are 1mm gap on Gen 2
Thread in by hand as far as you can.
Use a torque wrench, I believe 13 ft lbs, a dab of never sieze if your inclined to use it, I do.
Go over them twice with the torque wrench, there is a crush washer on them.
Torque the coil hex bolt to 6 ft lbs and your good to go.
 
#4 ·
Make sure to change plugs on a cold engine.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
View garage
  • Like
Reactions: jchitrady
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#7 ·
Easy removal, you need need lots of patient with rear 3 cylinders, don't over tighten plugs obviously, you might need special spark plug socket set and flexible magnet pick up tool would be helpful too.
NGK 3657 is what recommended by Honda that is what you should stick to. Be patient and take your time, nothing really special
 
#10 ·
Sort of an odd situation. Honda says to use anti-seize in the service manual, NGK says not to.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
View garage
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#19 ·
FYI: Hondas instructions for installing plugs is specifically when RE-installing them. That's probably why they say to use anti size. NGK says the non-stick plating on their plugs is basically a sacrificial layer so it probably only works once. Honda doesn't explain this, but if you actually follow what the book is saying, it always says "reinstall" right after removal. Never talks about replacing.

Also be aware NGKs torque spec is higher if installing dry vs Hondas lower book spec with anti size. Some of their plus are as low as 12 lb/ft.
 
#21 ·
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
View garage
  • Like
Reactions: jchitrady
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#20 ·
I also personally use a cheap Capri tools 1/4" click type torque wrench from Amazon with 1/4-3/8" adapter. Great for lower torque setting and it's small like a 3/8" ratchet. Rated in inch/lbs so you have to multiply by 12 to convert.

Also requires practice cause low torque values have a very low click feel on the tool. Adapt your way up to a big lug nut and get a feel for the tools low settings.

Something like this:
 
#23 ·
94eg! said:
I also personally use a cheap Capri tools 1/4" click type torque wrench from Amazon with 1/4-3/8" adapter. Great for lower torque setting and it's small like a 3/8" ratchet. Rated in inch/lbs so you have to multiply by 12 to convert.

Also requires practice cause low torque values have a very low click feel on the tool. Adapt your way up to a big lug nut and get a feel for the tools low settings.

Something like this:
[/URL]
Click to expand...
Absolutely fantastic tip on your post. You don't want to test out a torque wrench for the first time while driving something into your head. I've also always used lug nuts to test mine. Smaller click type torque wrenches have softer clicks the lighter you go.

Also remember that a straight extension will not alter torque values but a univeral/wobble will.
 
#29 ·
Image


Just a small dab of the copper (or maybe nickel) kind like this.

I've had the regular silver kind turn into very hard crust in the past that really sketched me out. Small pieces falling down into the cylinder upon later removal. It's definitely NOT meant for high temperatures like a combustion chamber. Perhaps the Nickle kind is better (I don't know).
 
J
#33 ·
Initially when I posted this question I was thinking maybe most will say "yup, just take the current plugs out and put the new ones back and you are done". :)
I didn't realize I would get a lot more important info that I didn't know about before. So at least in this case it is true that there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Thanks all. I really appreciate it. :)
 
#35 ·
:unsure:âť” If you need to apply 5 ft/lbs, you need to set your smaller torque wrench to 5x12= 60 in/lbs! Multiply one way, divide the other.
Mmm... Sourkraut! Und mit Schinken!
 
  • Like
Reactions: jchitrady
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
J
#38 ·
hi guys,
I need guidance here.
I am in the process of replacing the plugs. The first 5 plugs I replaced are all Ok and normal.
I noticed something unexpected with the last one (this is the rightmost plug near the firewall if we are looking from in front of car, this is the most difficult to work with because of small spaces due to the hoses around it). This one has oil all over, the coil is wet, the plug is wet. So looks like the leak is coming from the crush washer in the plug is not doing it job. Unless there is another hole I don't know about where that oil came from.

The funny thing is...I don't see performance issue with my car before doing this job. I assume if this plug is flooded with oil then at least that one would not function properly and I would notice something.

So now the question is: do I have to worry about this?
Should I just clean it and put the new plug back there and tighten it a little bit more.

Let me know. I am not planning to put back the last plug as I don't know if there is any impact or something I need to fix first.
BTW my Odyssey is not yet muzzled. I am planning to do that next.
Thanks all.
 
#40 ·
If the oil is on the ceramic side of the plug, then yes, tube seals are the problem.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
View garage
  • Like
Reactions: skelsall and jchitrady
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
J
#41 ·
Yes. The ceramic side is wet too.
I wonder why I didn't experience any performance issue or other issue with that one being flooded?

Is it just wet but functioning or when wet it is actually not functioning?

Looks like I have to start researching to fix that issue now. I hope it is not super difficult. :)
 
Honda Odyssey Forum
posts
1.1M
members
432K
Since
2000
Odyclub community is the #1 forum to discuss all things Honda Odyssey: minivans, safety, service maintenance, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
2005 - 2010 Odyssey 2011 - 2017 Odyssey 1999 - 2004 Odyssey 2018+ Odyssey Problems and Concerns